works perfectly! With the footswitch you can set the expression pedal to a certain point, set the fader to another point, and footswitch between the two LPF settings. If you have a fast foot you can get some great warbly sounds, and with other effects going on being able to sweep the LPF with your foot has a huge effect on delays and reverbs afterwards, and you can control the harshness on the fly, a big problem when using dirt pedals with the POG. It’s cool.

I can’t wait to modulate it. Only thing missing is an LED indicator, but that’s just more wires. gah.

Step 10: Re-assembly

Before you put the board back in it’s home, you’ll need to re-solder the LED wires (remember, red on the outside!) and re-solder the power connections. Refer to the beginning of this if you need to look at the wiring, but don’t mess it up!

Next, take those 3 labeled fader wires and bend them so they are right next to the new footswitch hole.

Now that the power and LED are back, take that circuit board with 10 things flopping all around it and put it back on the posts and screw it down. The rest is pretty self explanatory, place the input and output jacks back in place (don’t swap them!) and place your TRS jack in your new hole. Here’s the layout there (output jack is orange one wire):

Nowwww… install the 3PDT in that new hole. You’ll have the 3 labeled wires from the fader poking out, solder them to the switch in this way:

Top fader lug: Lower right corner
Middle lug: Middle lower
Bottom fader lug: Lower left corner

Re-install the main footswitch. Re-install the LPF switch. Your finished guts should look like this:

Now, put the over back on, put the fader tips back on, and enjoy!

Remember, if there is no pedal plugged in, and the footswitch is in the EXP PDL position, it will be full filtered, all bass. In regular mode, the fader should still work as before.

Step 8: Preparing and re-using the stock fader

If you installed the washers previously, now is the time to see what they are for. When you pull out the fader, it will have 3 lugs pointing up in the air. Remove any traces of excess solder. Now, you’ll want to CAREFULLY bend them down, all to the right with the fader’s two close lugs on the bottom. Don’t squish them flat, just give them a good 90 degree bend.

With the top and bottom lugs bent:

Here’s the middle lug bent over:

Now, with that done, you’ll need to strip off about 1/4″ from 3 pieces of wire, and bend each end into a hook. wrap the hook around a lug and solder in place. Do a nice tidy job if you can!

Here’s what you should have:

Now… how the hell do you mount the fader with no screws? J-B Weld! yeah i know… kinda make-shift to say the least. But, it feels really strong, strong enough that any force that could dis-lodge it would break the fader first!

You’ll need to do some prep. The fader itself has one side and both ends covered in metal, the rest is plastic. You;ll need to clean the sides of the fader casing with something that will cut through grease; I used Acetone.

Next, clean the underneath of the chassis with acetone, where the fader goes. be sure nOT to gloop any acetone through the hole onto the POG graphics, they’ll melt right off!!!!!

Now the tricky part. Read the instructions on the J-B, and mix it up. It sets up in 4 minutes, so be sure to do some dry runs first. You’ll have a few minutes to wiggle the fader after applying the ‘glue’. This is pretty tricky, very messy, but worked perfectly.

Gloop the J-B on the sides of the fader where it connects to the chassis. Give it a few wiggles so it sets in the cracks and spaces. When you are happy with the location and alignment, rest the chassis on that coffee cup with the fader tip out of the way so you don’t knock it out of place.

It will look something like this:

yeah, i know. looks horrible. Good thing no one sees it, and It’ll probably never come off. If it does, I’ll fess up and post it here. But, after letting it set up for 15 minutes, it’s SOLID. I was pretty surprised actually.

Step 3: Board removal and drilling/prep.

With the LED and power connections removed, you can now carefully pop the entire circuit board out. BUT before you do…

If you’d like a neat factory looking 3PDT footswitch placement, mark the location now before removing the board. There is a nice perfect sized spot right in the center/bottom area. mark it with a sharpie… you want to mark it right in the middle, centered from left to right.

There are 3 screws holding the board in place; they are large black screws on the board. Remove them and put them in that cup. You may need to angle and wiggle the board, but now the whole thing should pop out.

Now, with the board out, use a small straightedge to line up the original footswitch hole with your sharpie marks. The idea is to have a X/Y location that matches the original switch but falls in that spot.

Your empty Chassis should look sorta like this:

Note: some work has been done to that pic. Here’s what needs to be done.

Step 4: Washers

On the face of the pedal there are 3 screws holding the circuit board stand-offs in place. loosen and remove those screws, and remove the stand offs inside the pedal. Immediately take 2 of your washers and put them UNDER the stand offs, and screw the stand offs back together. The purpose of adding height to the stand offs is to allow room for the modified fader. Add two washers under each one so it looks lke the photo above.

Step 5: Drilling

This is tough. these enclosures are harder to drill than the aluminum ones, so plan it out and take your time. I used a drill press. If you use a hand drill, BE CAREFUL because the enclosures are slippery and your bit could skirt across.

First, drill the EXP out. I put it evenly spaced next to the in and out jacks, it looks nice here.

I found that the best way to drill that weird angled piece was to place a piece of 1/2″ MDF under the surface being drilled. it has to be about 4″ x6 or 7″ so that you can place it flat on your drill press.

After that, drill your 1/2″ hole for the footswitch or your 3PDT toggle. You may want to tap up the face of the pedal and rill it from underneath were you lined up your hole location with the circuit board.

You’ll notice in the next pic there are some swirl marks on the outside. Avoid that my drilling a little then cleaning your bit; as the metal shaves off, it sticks to the bit and goes for a ride. It’s covered by the switch though.

After you have all your holes drilled, clean up the edges with a dremel if need be.

cool just finished. man, what a pain!

i’ll get the how-to up soon.

tough call. i would need to drill 3 additional holes… EXP out, replacement pot, and the 3PDT switch. the 3PDT could just be a footswitch, and the EXP out, well that’s the point; but a big goofy knob replacing the fader would look ridiculous.

unless i could find a panel mount fader that fit perfectly and had a low enough profile to not touch the board… i doubt it. i guess i could hot glue the fader in place.

if i end up doing it i’ll post pics and how-to here.

ahhh screw it i’m gonna do it. i think i figured out the best way. stay tuned.

oh btw admins/mods… can we post modifications here?

alright. here’s the deal.

i removed the 10K linear fader. there are two lugs on the right, one on the left; the left one is the wiper.

replacing the fader with a 10k linear pot worked perfectly, and it seems the bottom lug on the fader (closest to the footswitch) is ground; aka, wired up very much like an analog LPF or tone control on a guitar.

or, so i thought.

in a standard analog LPF, you can set the pot to full resistance (in this case, 10k) and add a second pot in parallel ‘tacked’ onto the 3 lugs. the second pot can offer a less resistive path to ground and will take over when turned down.

unfortunately, this is not the case on the POG. the fader must be controlling a digital message, because wired in this fashion the replacement pot does nothing until the very end of the travel, then it shuts the pedal off.

so, the correct answer is: the fader must be completely bypassed, and switched out with a 3PDT switch wired to a stereo jack. luckily, the 3rd lug is ground so a non-isolated stereo jack ill work fine.

now, it’s just a matter of mechanics. the easiest thing to do would be to replace the fader with a knob and rotary pot. without the lugs of the fader soldered to the circuit board (remember they have to be isolated for the exp out to work), the fader would just flop around inside. no good.

so, is the mod worth adding a secondary knob (and removing the fader) and drilling two holes? hmmmm/