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toddwpMember
Sounds like the switch has failed. If the switch fails, the only reverb setting that will work is Hall. If you can return it to the place you bought it, that would be much simpler than trying to fix it. It is possible to get a replacement switch put in. I attempted a repair on my buddy’s Holy Grail Nano which had the exact same issue, but I didn’t have the exact switch on hand, so i just used a regular mini switch. Had to mount it in the side of the enclosure, and I used the hole left by the original switch to install a new 3-way LED that glowed red, blue, or green based on the reverb mode selected. It was actually quite cool. But it was a pretty tight fit — possibly too tight — and something later happened that shorted out a component. Now it doesn’t work at all (no effect signal…. the reverb knob just reduces the dry volume as you turn it right until at full right the pedal is silent). Long way to say… hold out for the right switch. If you can’t return the pedal, and don’t have a repair guy near you, I can swap that switch out for ya. (With an exact replacement switch… lesson learned about getting creative inside a nano enclosure with surface mount components).
March 31, 2014 at 1:03 pm in reply to: Where to find a replacement Color switch for Small Stone…? #119816toddwpMemberI replaced my color switch with a DPDT on-on as described, but it does not seem to function properly. When “off” the phaser seems to suffer from a precitious drop in one of the phases (it gets muddy at one point in the “swoosh”) and when its “on” it cuts off entirely.
I wired the switch directly to the main PCB (i.e. removed the 6-pin ribbon cable and connected the switch via hookup wire to the PCB pin corresponding to the little switch PCB…. at least according to a physical trace of the switch PCB.
Is there something else happening on that little mini-PCB the original switch is wired into? I’m working with a version 4 reissue SS btw. Thanks for any info.
toddwpMemberThis switch is a DPDT switch in on-off-on configuration. I actually mounted it off-PCB (in the side of the enclosure and used a 3PDT on-off-on toggle, and used the third point to add a new LED that changed based on the reverb mode.
toddwpMemberCool thanks for the info. Unfortunately my buddy’s switch is totally gone – when he opened up the enclosure it was literally in pieces with the connectors loose and rattling around inside. We may end up doin some trial and error work or just call ehx.
toddwpMemberbump… can anyone validate LP Bruce’s (and my) hunch?
toddwpMemberbump because i got this same issue and the same question. What configuration is that 6 pin switch?
toddwpMemberLp Bruce I don’t have the answer but I followed the thread in that other forum and I’m curious what the nk answer is. I think you are right but don’t know enough tech-wise to be positive.
December 4, 2013 at 4:45 am in reply to: Using the variable voltage spots for Micro POG / SMMH #119553toddwpMemberand one clarification I should have added: the trim knob that adjusts the volume doesn’t have indicators, so you have to just kind of “eyeball” the voltage you’re looking for. For sagging voltage to fuzz you do it with your ear. For this purpose though… my question is do i need to be more precise? Thanks!
toddwpMemberwell that makes perfect sense thanks for translating! Think I’ll play it safe and not experiment with voltage deviations on this one.
toddwpMemberThanks Scruffie… but isn’t the CA3094 designed for up to 24v? It’s entirely possible I am missing something in the data sheet, but it looks like the basic version is rated for up to 24v, with some other variants rated even higher? That’s how I’m reading the data sheet:
but again – I’m a liberal arts major and easily out of my depth with tech data.
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