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February 23, 2009 at 11:59 pm in reply to: Schematic for Clone Theory Original required eh-cl3000 #93884The EH ManModeratorQuote:Thanks for the fast response peeps, really appreciated. So, the picture isn’t too clear but it reads
3.0A 125V AC
1.5A 250V AC
0.5A 125V DCThanks
You’ve got one of the odd long ones. I have some very similar ones here. Are you sure the switch needs replaced? Most of the time they’re just starting to come apart and can be snapped back together. What’s the problem you’re having?
BTW, the one Ned Flanders posted a link to will work fine. With the shorter handle there’s less chance of it being bumped and broken.
February 23, 2009 at 10:54 pm in reply to: Schematic for Clone Theory Original required eh-cl3000 #93877The EH ManModeratorAlso, it’s not a toggle switch. It’s a slide switch.
If it’s an Edge switch, you need an SPDT. If it’s Chor-Vib/Vib-Flange you’ll need a DPDT. The holes are tapped for 4-40 screws although you can use an untapped one and add 4-40 nuts to the screws.The EH ManModeratorQuote:But what is the exact method for removing the knobs? Just keep turning when they reach their 0 or “max” position? Sorry about the newbness to knowing the mechanics of effects boxes.
Just grab and pull. If it’s a vintage unit, the knobs should come right off.
The EH ManModeratorQuote:Is there a guide or method to removing the circuit board from the backside? Do I have to take off the knobs and is it just a simple turning of them? I don’t want to crack anything plastic, or strip off some threads or something similar. The pots are the underside of the knobs correct?Thanks again for the response.
Remove the knobs, then remove the nut on each control shaft. Gently lift the board up and look at the back of each pot.
Quote:The pots are the underside of the knobs correct?Correct. They’re the controls.
The EH ManModeratorPot codes are generally accepted as a reliable source for dating but I’m not sure about cap codes as they’re more likely to have been replaced.
The unit isn’t as fragile as you think. Take it apart, check the back of the pots for the codes.
The latest code would be your date.The EH ManModeratorQuote:I have a bit of history about the Axis on my Big Muff page. I believe it was 1967 that the two knob version was first sold. It layer changed to the three knob version, which was identical to the Triangle Big Muff.I don’t think there was ever a 3-knob Axis. At least, I’ve not seen one yet.
The EH ManModeratorSo much time has passed since then putting together a precise chronology would be difficult. Is there something in particular you need to date?
The EH ManModeratorDoes your original switch have 6 lugs or 3 lugs?
The EH ManModeratorIt’s a 1978 model at the earliest.
The EH ManModeratorMy guess is that there’s a bad solder joint somewhere that got jarred loose and then back into contact.
The EH ManModeratorSound Barrier Music in Tennessee used to ask $50 each for those! I’ve got 2 or 3 sitting here.
The EH ManModeratorAlso, this is a problem that’s not unique to the Nano Clone. You’ll run into this problem with nearly any germanium-based fuzz/boost/overdrive pedal
The EH ManModeratorSimple solution: it needs it’s own power supply or one that’s used with positive ground effects only.
The EH ManModeratorThere’s a good possibility it’s the 12AY7. You can replace it with a 12AU7 to see if that takes care of the hum.
The EH ManModeratorQuote:Thanks for the speedy reply. This may be a stupid question, but are you saying pull out and re-insert each tube one at a time?Pull the 1st tube and let it warm up. See if there’s any hum. Then put the tube back in and pull the 2nd tube. It’s possible one of the 12AY7s is causing the hum. I found that in a friend’s preamp.
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