Hello:

If you have enough money, don’t hesitate: Get both!. They’re not the same anyway and thus, not redundant for use in the same pedal board. If you do this, you can expand a lot the sound palette.

The DMM is more faithful to the “early U2 sound”, but also versatile for more styles while the Hazarai, despite not being analog (impossible due its extended features) is still warm-sounding and you can push it to very experimental sounds (as is the EH-tradition) and lots of sonic posibilities (looping an manipulation) apart the usual echo/delay.

If you do this, place the DMM first and the SMM/H after so you can also create patterns with the DMM and recording into SMM/H looper, or compose complex multi-delay repeats. The only flaw of the SMM/H in my opinion is that there’s no “trails” in any mode, so yo must be careful and fine when you play as the repeats cut abruptly when the effect is disengaged, instead of fading away gently.

That’s what I’d do. In fact, I have some DMM’s and the SMM/H… combine them and you’ll get fantastic results.

Good luck and make a good choice.

Regards from Spain.

Nacho

For “Octave Fuzz” purposes I use two different settings, from guitar to amp are:

a) guitar -> tuner and/or wah -> Sovtek “Military Green” Muff -> Aramat Green Machine OD -> EH POG -> (rest of pedals) -> amp.

Sometimes, I use the Muff with POG, or the Green Machine with POG, or the three at the same time. I like the POG at “bass octave” setting, which gives more growl to overdrive and fuzz, but the organ-like setting makes you sound like Deep Purple’s Jon Lord (try to play “Space Truckin’ with a POG! – it works).

If I want total control over octave, I choose the big-box POG, no doubt it sounds killer. Maybe the Micro POG does it well too, but If your pedalboard has plenty of space, put a Big Muff first and a POG after. In fact the POG itself can sound quite “driven” when you push the sliders up!

the POG also will help a Big Muff to cut better through the mix for sure!

UPDATED 13/06/09:

Placing Blue Box in the middle, I’ve noticed a better signal path as the MXR CF high quality buffer. Also, I still have a fuzz after to boost the Blue Box, something that Deluxe Big Muff does very well, giving me a heavier sound.

b) guitar -> tuner and/or wah MXR Classic Fuzz -> MXR Blue Box -> EH Deluxe Big Muff -> (rest of pedals) -> amp.

This is my second octave fuzz setting. I love the MXR Blue Box and there’s nothing like it. I this case, I had the Deluxe Big Muff just after the Blue Box, but I noticed I could get more gain and output volume placing the MXR Classic Fuzz to take advantage of its buffer and then the vintage Deluxe Big Muff to expand the sound even more.

My suggestions for you:

Good luck!

Hello:

The EH Metal Muff w/Top Boost is really amazing. I was looking for a high-gain distortion and I hit in the bull’s eye. EH always sounds different and more experimental than others… so for the first time EH gets into “metal” territory I think is a very good job!

I use this to play from early 70’s proto-metal to stoner, until reaching the maximum doom/drone metal rumbles (think on Earth, Boris or Sunn O))) for example).

As I’m a Kyuss-fan, especially their 1.992-1.995 “magic” three album period… I could get the Josh Homme’s trademark “bass-heavy” guitar tone. One of my favorite tunes is the Black Sabbath cover “Into the Void”… I use Metal Muff to play it because it matches perfectly the Kyuss’ late-period sound.

When I use wahs, It goes first, fuzz and distortion go immediately after. The first tune I tried to test the Metal Muff with wah was another Kyuss one, which is “Jumbo Blimp Jumbo”, another cool instrumental from last album.

This is only an example, but, if you like bands like Monster Magnet, Fu Manchu, Kyuss, Obsessed, Beaver, Spirit Caravan, Spiritual Beggars… and many from mid to late 90’s stoner movement… don’t hesitate: Metal Muff sounds killer!

But it becomes an even more powerful grind machine when it’s paired with an USA Big Muff. Thus, I place my ’78 Opamp NYC Big Muff first and the Metal Muff after and… wow!, thorugh a Sovtek MiG 100 amp (which is very EH-friendly).

About the Metal Muff, of course you can get some “Marshall stack” sounds, but I think it gets closer to Mesa/Soldano territory.

I’ve managed to get different setups for single coil and humbuckers, from hard-rock sounds to screaming leads, or from solid rhythm to doom mayhem.

About the Top Boost… at moderate levels sound great, not only for soloing. In fact, I keep the Top Boost engaged almost every time I hit the Metal Muff.

As I play with down-tuned guitars (Standard C and D tunings), the Top Boost helps to give and extra bright without losing the “heaviness”.

Remember to shield properly your instrument and have a good wiring & power supply system to avoid unwanted noise, it’s a hi-gain beast so … be careful!

Regards

Nacho

Hello:

I’m considering to get a 16-sec reissue, but (sadly) without the original foot controller. As you’ve said that the HOG foot controller works properly… once you plug the HOG foot controller to the 16-sec DD, I understand that HOG’s FC switches match exactly with the 16-SDD original controller switches in the same position, am I right?

Also, the FC just needs a simple patch cable with mono 1/4 jacks, am I right too?

If 16 SDD- FC switches are:

Upper row (from left to right): Octave Feedback Reverse

Lower Row (from left to right): Record Play Sweep

So if HOG’s FC switches are:

Upper row (from left to right): Preset 1 Preset 2 Preset 3

Lower Row (from left to right): Preset 4 Preset 5 Preset 6

HOG’s FC really does it despite the “special” features of 16-SDD without any mod?… or is just that the fact of being a “simple” six-way switch?.

If I can use HOG’s FC with 16-SDD… i’ll get it for sure.

Thanks for help

Nacho

Hi again:

I’m a “Sovtek-only” player. I discovered them in 2.001, when I first saw an original MiG 60 with its 2 x 12″ cab. I went to shop with my Jazzmaster and two pedals… wow!.

It replaced my old 8080 Valvestate (1st version). MiG 60 lasted for two more years, then, my rehearsal space was completely destroyed by a fire, and most of my gear (except the two Fenders – Jazzmaster and Strat which now are “heavy relic fireburnt”.

So I had to replace… and then I found the MiG 100.

Today, MiG 100 is my only amp… I like it so much that I have three MiG 100 heads for playing with my different three bands… no matter style or music, MiG’s are my amp of choice.

What I like most of them is they’re sturdy, reliable and very affordable. Despite some cheap plastic little parts (switches and jacks), they sound really good! – unless you like single channel amps and you can handle with the absence of reverb and effects loop.

Also and very important: They dig almost all pedals you can plug through, especially EH pedals. No matter which model, but there’s no bad-sounding EH pedal throught a Sovtek, at least I’ve not found it yet.

The only pedal which did not fit was the RAT 2, and of course the “ACME brand cheap plastic pedals” still sound like crap but it’s a kind of bizarre full-room crap sound.

MiG 60 sounded more raw, very “late-60’s” sound, I mean (psychedelic, acid-rock…) while MiG 100 is very “early-70’s”, cleaner sound and more “room”.

Here are my present amp sets:

* Sovtek MiG 100 H + Sovtek 4 x 12″ cab (stock Eminence speakers).
* Sovtek MiG 100 (regular) modded to 50 w + Sovtek 4 x 12″ cab (stock Eminence speakers).
* Sovtek MiG 100 (regular) + Framus 2 x 12″ cab (Vintage 30 Celestion speakers).

Regards from Spain.

Nacho

My “EH Army”: Latest update 24/06/09

Original EH boxes:

* 1978 EH NYC Big Muff Pi (Op-Amp) with Tone Bypass and “True Bypass Mod” (still with the original Carling switch).
* 1977-78 EH Deluxe Big Muff Pi (“Blend On/Off” version). All original!
* 1977-78 EH Deluxe Big Muff Pi (“Parallel/Series” version), “True Bypass” modded and additional switch for compressor on/off.
* 1975 EH Octave Multiplexer.
* 1978 EH Doctor Q Envelope Follower.
* 197? EH Small Stone Phase Shifter (First version).
* 197? EH Small Stone Phase Shifter (Second version).

Reissue EH boxes:

* 90’s Sovtek “Military Green” Big Muff Pi – thick graphic version.
* EH Big Muff Pi USA (Early 2.000’s version with black-pointer knobs and Carling-type switch).
* EH Big Muff Pi USA (Bought in 2.005, last of wooden-box units, I suppose).
* EH Double Muff (cardboard packaged version).
* EH Metal Muff Distortion w/Top Boost.
* EH Hot Tubes 2.002 version (pointer knobs and Carling DPDT switch).
* EH POG.
* EH Frequency Analyzer (Big box. Bought this year – cardboard packaged).
* EH XO Stereo Pulsar.
* EH Pulsar Tremolo (Wooden Boox version – 2.004 or 2.005).
* EH Polychorus (Early 2.000’s version with black-pointer knobs and Carling-type switch).
* EH Deluxe Memory Man – early reissue (american AC-cord) with black “pointer knobs” and “True Bypass Mod” with a 3PDT switch.
* EH Deluxe Memory Man – 2.003’s wooden-box reissue round knobs and standard “hex-nut secured” footswitch, pre-“True Bypass” version.
* EH Deluxe Memory Man – Latest reissue (2.005 and after). Cardboard box packing and “True Bypass with relay” unit.
* EH Stereo Memory Man With Hazarai.
* EH Holier Grail Reverb.

And that’s all, folks!

Greetings from Spain.

Nacho

Good morning!

I like this pedal a lot, I have it since NOV’08 and I’ve managed to get ten settings, five for each wave type (square and triangle) and still tweaking with it.

It looks and sound great, one of the few XO series I own (Others I have are the SMM/Hazarai and the regular six-knob Metal Muff) – I’m a EH’s big box fan.

My only complaints are about “Depth” and “Rate” pots’ performance. I explain:

– Depth: The effect is hardly noticeable until you reach the 9 o’clock mark, then it begins to raise. After 10 o’clock, and until max (the weird “reverse phase tremolo”) it’s OK for me. But, could be possible to improve for better response at lower depth settings?.

– Rate: Here’s the “weakest” point in my opinion. But I’ll point the pros and cons:

* It’s too sensitive which is great because you may get lots of sounds with a little twist – Positive.
* I’ve found the speed range turns a bit difficult to use when you approach to max. level (from 3 o’clock until max.) – Negative.

I wish It could have a “speed limit” at max. instead of being “almost plain”, still effect but a bit buzzy.

Despite this, I think is a great effect (sound and quality-price ratio) and I’ll keep it in my board. I have the previous Big-Muff sized Pulsar Tremolo too and I’m comparing both at same settings – they’re quite similar but not the same thing.

Greetings!

Nacho