Forum Replies Created
-
AuthorPosts
-
Stoner WizardParticipant
Hello:
My 16-sec DD is on the way, so I’ll have it within the next week I suppose.
I’m still wondering which control pedal to get: The HOG Foot Controller or the 2880 Foot Controller.
** HOG FC vs. 2880 FC **
– Which are your preferences and/or suggestions?.
– Pros and cons of each model?
Thank you everybody
Nacho
Stoner WizardParticipantAbout my DMM’s:
* The 90’s-2000 was modded to 3PDT, because it came with a DPDT but the LED was on with the effect engaged or bypassed. Also, I remember some op-amps had been changed by the previous owner (4558’s instead TL072’s if I’m not mistaken – we didn’t took notes when it was being revised, oops). Also the circuit board was one-sided and it contain two delay chips but with more storage than late reissues, so the delay time was slightly longer and preamp gain was higher too.
* The 2000-2002 (the one from the shop) is all original (described at previous message). Shorter delay time (slight difference) and cleaner than 90’s-2000 modded and 2003.
* My 2003 wooden-box version has the modern round knobs, but the switch is a blue 3PDT EH type (as I saw when opened the cover, but I didn’t do anything else). Although the LED is always on. But has no trails and the preamp stage acts only when delay effect is engaged. Delay time is like the first DMM I mention above. The board is still one-sided. This one is as came out from factory.
* The “after 2005” DMM (cardboard box) is original, but is has a 3PDT and TBP using relays. The delay time is shorter. It contains four delay chips but with less storage than earlier reissues. Although, the LED is always on. as I remember, the circuit board is a double sided one.
That’s all I know. I can open a big boxed EH and look inside (nothing else), but DMM’s too complicated to me.
Maybe I’d give more info in the future. The next time I’ll make notes when I head them to my tech.
No matter which one… DMM’s are always great!Enjoy them
Nacho
Stoner WizardParticipantAnd this is my 90’s-2000 DMM (with the TBP mod):
[img]http://et1qiw.blu.livefilestore.com/y1prgUPejzF9Ki2VJXkans-dJrpggs92TDu1mc1J3oI68Q_meoRhTthnPJGqIAi0Aq9ivSR5EGYWNqMDmxbU_8xIM6F2vFlmlPs/DMM Pointer Knobs Reissue [True Bypass Mod] (2000-2002).JPG[/img]
Very similar but it came with the AC cord, although I asked my tech to replace it with a socket for the 24 volt/100 mA power supply so I could use with an European standard voltage. It has longer delay time and more gain than the previous one I’ve posted. As a result of the mod, there’s no trails and the preamp stage is only engaged when the delay is off.
Apart from ease of use with standard EH power supplies, I replaced the AC cord and internal transformer to avoid excessive heating and possible sources of noise (as some people complained), but I have a 70’s EH Deluxe Big Muff (Blend On/Off version) all original and there’s no noises (as I’ve tried). Maybe my fear was unfounded but I preferred not to take any risk.
Also, with the 3PDT the power LED is lit only when delay effect is engaged. While the previous DMM posted acts as usual (light always on when power is on).
In my opinion, is not a matter of better and worse, each version has its “style”. As I can’t decide which one is “the best”, I keep them all and use one or another to experiment and tell the differences.
NOTE: I thought that earlier 90’s were only with AC-cord and they moved to power supplies around 2000’s, but I have a 2002 catalog where DMM’s was still pictured with the USA 3-prong power cord.
Does anybody have a clue about this?.
Regards
Nacho
Stoner WizardParticipantI own one of these units, recently bought in eBay. I own three more reissue versions of DMM modded or stock True-Bypassed (90’s-2000, early 2000-2002, 2.003 and after 2.005), but this is the one I was looking for to complete my “DMM team” (although I have no intention of getting rid of any of them of course because they are great too, but each one has its own style). It creates trails when the effect is bypassed and the preamp stage is always active, which allows you to match levels of effect on and off signals. Weird but acceptable to me.
I’m very happy about getting this DMM because is exactly the same I owned seven years ago and this is the one that “caught” me forever. Others are or have modded to TBP or they have it from stock, but I’ll leave this as it came (with its black-pointer knobs and a DPDT Carling-look switch – very silent).
After testing it, in a long signal chain with a mixture of TBP’s and buffers, I have to say that I don’t appreciate tone-loss issues [sorry, but “tone sucking” is an “ethereal” (and sometimes nonsense) concept to me] and/or bad soundings.
The delay time is slightly shorter than later reissues and cleaner.
As I’ve tried (based on years of playing experience with DMM) I think overloading is not a problem once you set the level to an appropriate value, even more, you can take advantage of this to add more punch to the signal chain. This preamp has a very natural drive and enough performance above half values until it begins to get the overdriven sound (I place it at the second row in my pedal board so I can’t kick level knob or move it accidentally). In fact, when pushed level to max you can get a warm but solid overdrive, and most important, very friendly to playing dynamics.
Despite being reissues, are these 90’s DMM still based on the design of Howard Davis?.
Undoubtely, DMM is one of my favorite pedals from the EH catalog, and one of the best sounding analog delays I’ve ever tried.
My recent interest on EH boxes is focused on 90’s-early 2000’s period (until 2002) reissues, and honestly, they sound good without any kind of mod (sorry I’m not very friendly to mods), I’ve noticed they are underrated and sometimes dismissed.
I have found difficult to find some reissues of that period because I wanted them originals without mods but, at last, I’ve managed to get some reissues of Deluxe Memory Man, Q-Tron, Stereo Polychorus and they’re great!.
And this is my early 2000-2002 reissue, just like the 90’s-2000 but without the AC cord and an external power supply instead.
The unit served as demo in a USA music shop and was almost never used, so it has a mint condition.
Regards
Nacho
Stoner WizardParticipantA question abou 16-SDD:
Could I connect the EH-DRM 32 to EH 16-SDD reissue?. Are they compatible?. If so, whic would be the proper routing?.
Thank you in advance and regards.
Nacho
Stoner WizardParticipantHello:
Finally I’ve bought the EH’s 16 SDD Reissue but without the original foot controller.
Which one do you recommend as a substitute?, the HOG’s foot controller or 2880 SM-Looper’s foot controller?.
As I asked before… do the six switches from 2880’s SML match with the 16-SDD foot controller exactly?
Thank you very much for anybody’s help.
Nacho
Stoner WizardParticipantQuote:Hello people!Now, I’m updating my MiG 100 H. I had another plans but I noticed last day after a rehearsal break that two valve sockets made the tubes turn to “burnin’ red”. So I stopped to avoid any damage and took the head to my amp tech.
Now it’s time to change and make the beast growl more than before. I’m gonna use a quartet of KT66 tubes for power amp section (instead of “standard” 6L6 type), and keeping the usual 12AX7 triad for preamp section.
With this update, I’ll keep the original “Sovtek” mood but with more punch and bottom. What I like a lot of MiG 100H amp is its dynamic playing response – if you play softly, it whispers but when you hit the strings, it sounds really heavy)
For the next days, I hope I’ll get the tubes and begin the process… the MiG 100H will be back soon at full throttle!
Regards from Spain
Ignacio
I’ve got the amp ready to use. Finally the set is: Two KT-66 type JJ Electronics for power amp and three 12AX7/ECC83 type also from JJ Electronics.
The reason for using only two power amps instead the full-quartet is that there was not space enough bewteen valve sockets. KT-66’s are too big (huge diameter) and that would imply that tubes are touching with each other. So, the two were put on outer sockets leaving middle ones empty. The remainder of the quartet is for replacement.
The preamp stage tubes are not equal 12AX7: One is a “balanced” one, the second is a V1-type and the third is a standard value 12AX7. Each one has different gain values, so as you give more drive to preamp they crunch harder, but clean when set at low values.
This has “turned” (theoretically) the amp from 100 watt to 50 watt, but the character of MiG 100 H remains intact. I mean, the amp can be cranked a bit more (which you can do with a lower watt amp) but keeps the clean and huge headroom of a 100 watt tube amp. Of course, with the original 4 x 12″ Sovtek cab.
The effects, as played through the amp have a more “ballsy” sound.
I’ve changed a bit my EQ setting: While before I used to put Presence and EQ knobs to noon (5), now I’ve set Presence and Middle knobs to 6, keeping the rest intact.
I plug guitar to High input with Master set to 3, and Volume (preamp drive) to 2-2’5 depending of the guitar I use.
Long live to MiG 100!
I still have two more MiG 100 heads (regular model) to be “updated”. Once I make the changes, I’ll write my next chapter for MiG 100 chronicles.
Regards
Nacho
Stoner WizardParticipantHello:
After one year of using with the band, I’ve managed to get four nice settings of EH Metal Muff.
* Single coil (P90/Jazzmaster type coils):
This one gives you a huge sound that works fine with down-tuned guitars. I use this with a Jazzmaster in Standard C. Reminds me the Kyuss guitar sound.
Vol: 2-3 o’clock.
Top Boost ON: 9 o’clock.
Treble: 10 o’clock.
Mid: 1 o’clock.
Bass: 2 o’clock.
Distortion: 10 o’clock.There is a second variation of this one just by setting mid knob to 10 o’clock, and rest of parameters keep the same values.
It serves as well for medium output humbuckers like Fender Wide Range adn Seymour Duncan Antiquity HB’s.
* Double coil (P90/Jazzmaster type coils):
This first settings allows you to cover a wide territory, from hard rock riff/lead to thrash or modern metal sounds. I use these settings with an old Gibson Sonex tuned to Standard D which has two high output HB’s.
Vol: 2 o’clock.
Top Boost: 9-10 o’clock (depending of bridge or neck pickups and tone values).
Treble: 11 o’clock.
Mid: Noon.
Bass: 1 o’clock.
Distortion: 9-10 o’clock (depending of humbucker output and how much the amp is driven).A second variation of the setting is achieved just by turning volume to 3 o’clock and distortion to zero. With this, you may crank the amp a bit more and you can get a nice crunchy sound in the vein of Tool’s complex palm mute rhythm or Porcupine Tree’s style.
Also, as I use a Big Muff before Metal Muff when I want to make it grind heavier than hell!
Regards.
Nacho
Stoner WizardParticipantQuote:Going up there gets you some pseudo-ring mod sounds. Make sure the depth knob is set for maximum depth (2-3 o’clock) and play with the shape knob.The pseudo-ring mod is in the vein of “sci-fi/horror movie soundtrack”. I’ve managed to play drone guitar lines using open strings (6th and 1st for example) and natural harmonics on 4th, 5th, 7th, 9th and 12th frets while tweaking the speed knob just after playing harmonics (fast->slow->harmonic->fast->slow…)
To emphasize the effect, I kept th MXR Distortion + at max. vol and minimum drive with the Sovtek’s preamp stage almost overdriven. It was nice to see how the sound changed from nasty vibrato to slow paced wave. The thing goes even more from outer space if you add delays to the chain.
Weird… but nice!
Regards.
Nacho
Stoner WizardParticipantHello again:
By the way. As I said on my first review that Double Muff works better when placed at first position in the chain, I recently discovered that Double Muff still performs nicely at second position with certain effects…
… yes!. If you have an MXR Blue Box (weird but fantastic effect) but you don’t want to mod it [like me] (because of it’s limited output volume range), put Blue Box first and Double Muff immediately after, then switch them on and be prepared for sonic demolition.
For some reason, the sound of the Double Muff interacts really well with the random two octave down fuzz of the MXR BLue Box, no matter you want to boost the MXR BB or you want to give more “thud” to Double Muff. The results are fantastic because there’s still lots of gain and output volume ranges (over unity gain), making BB more versatile with the Double Muff while the Blue Box gives Double Muff a drone-doomy style.
Also you can get a myriad of combinations using single and double modes of DM while tweaking with the Blend control of BB. Even at max. level of random two-octs. down!.
BB’s built-in noise gate acts as well as usual (taming the noise and unwanted feedback) but lets Double Muff sound as is.
The Double Muff at second position with this set-up still sounds pretty good itself and doesn’t turn trebly or harsh.
As I’ve tested, it suits better with p-90/Jazzmaster or medium-gain humbucker type coils than high-output humbuckers.
Regards and enjoy with DM!
Nacho
Stoner WizardParticipantHello again:
Last night, I was tweaking with the “Parallel/Series” EH Deluxe Big Muff.
I managed to get an engaged effect signal slighty over unity gain, but after trying different set-ups, I this was the most effective:
* Mode: Parallel.
* Fuzz Volume: MAX.
* Comp Volume: MAX.
* Threshold: 8 o’clock.
* Tone: Somewhere between 6-8 o’clock.
* Sustain: Any value between 6 o’clock and MAX. It depends how much feedback and compression you want to add to fuzz. I’ve found more balance at lower values to get more dynamics.CAVEAT: These settings are tested only with my unit, which was heavily modded (not by myself – now I damn the guy who did). In fact, as I have independent switches to engage the fuzz and compressor, that’s another factor to consider. I always have both engaged to get the more output as I can.
Additionally, I think that being run only with 9 volts may not be enough for this “gizmo” and has not much “room”. I’m considering to go back to internal AC-transformer with pronged cord (fitted to European voltage and prong types, of course). If I decide, I’ll head it to my tech and I’ll tell the results once it’s finished.But the sound still remains intact.
I tried my original “Blend On/Off” EH Deluxe Big Muff and the difference is “like day vs. night”. This original has lots of gain and clearly (noticeable boost) goes over unity gain. It “woofs” like a “LSD-driven wolf” and the compressor makes fuzz “punch harder”.
Regards and thank you for your opinions.
Nacho
Stoner WizardParticipantGood mornin’
Finally, I’ve completed my “EH Army”: Latest and final update 30/07/09 (no more pedals, please! -laughs)
Original EH boxes:
* 1978 EH NYC Big Muff Pi (Op-Amp) with Tone Bypass and “True Bypass Mod” (still with the original Carling switch).
* 1977-78 EH Deluxe Big Muff Pi (“Blend On/Off” version). All original!
* 1977-78 EH Deluxe Big Muff Pi (“Parallel/Series” version), “True Bypass” modded and additional switch for compressor on/off.
* 1975 EH Octave Multiplexer.
* 1978 EH Doctor Q Envelope Follower.
* 1974-78 EH Small Stone Phase Shifter (First version).
* 197?-78 EH Small Stone Phase Shifter (Second version).Assorted reissue EH boxes:
* 90’s Sovtek “Military Green” Big Muff Pi – thick graphic version.
* EH Big Muff Pi USA (Early 2.000’s version with black-pointer knobs and Carling-type switch).
* EH Big Muff Pi USA (Bought in 2.005, last of wooden-box units, I suppose).
* EH Double Muff (cardboard packaged version).
* EH Metal Muff Distortion w/Top Boost.
* EH Hot Tubes 2.002 version (pointer knobs and Carling DPDT switch).
* EH Octave Multiplexer reissue (classic chassis) (cardboard box late version with round knobs).
* EH POG.
* EH Q-Tron (wooden box, early 2000’s version with black pointer knobs and Carling-type switch).
* EH Frequency Analyzer (Big box. Bought this year – cardboard packaged).
* EH Pulsar Tremolo (x2) (Wooden Boox version – 2.004 or 2.005 & later (2006) cardboard box version).
* EH Stereo PolyChorus (Early 2.000’s version with black-pointer knobs and Carling-type switch).
* EH XO Stereo Pulsar.
* EH Deluxe Memory Man – early reissue (american AC-cord) with black “pointer knobs” and “True Bypass Mod” with a 3PDT switch.
* EH Deluxe Memory Man – second early reissue with external power supply, black pointer knobs and Carling-type switch. All original!
* EH Deluxe Memory Man – 2.003’s wooden-box reissue round knobs and standard “hex-nut secured” footswitch, pre-“True Bypass” version.
* EH Deluxe Memory Man – Latest reissue (2.005 and after). Cardboard box packing and “True Bypass with relay” unit.
* EH Stereo Memory Man With Hazarai.
* EH Holier Grail Reverb.
* EH 16 Second Digital Delay reissue (x2). Both are “stock” (with the 4-bar count in previous to recording). One is from 2004 (wooden box) and the other one (purchased recently without original packing) is later.And that’s all, folks!
Greetings from Spain.
Nacho
Stoner WizardParticipantHello:
I have the two versions of the EH Delux Big Muff: The first “Blend On/Off” switch version and the late “Parallel/Series” switch.
The first one is all original and sounds really killer… makes wolves howl (LOL!) and I’m very happy with it.
But the second version (“Parallel/Series”) despite it’s okay too, has a problem:
The issue is that both the fuzz and compressor output volume when pushed at max levels barely reach the unity gain. I think the pedal has gain enough to go over unity gain.
I bought it with a true-bypass mod, the AC cord was removed, and it has an additional switch (and LED) to engage/disengage the compressor apart from the distortion. Now it runs with a typical 9-volt Boss PSA adaptor.
* The “Power On/Off” switch is not active (Due the “mod”, I suppose).
* When i have distortion and compressor engaged, the two LED’s don’t shine with the same intensity (the red LED is for the distortion an original and the green LED was added for the compressor). 9 volts are not enough for the pedal?. Does it need more?. Also, there’s a huge difference in output volume depending you’re in “Parallel” or “Series” – the former sounds a bit (barely) over unity gain and the latter doesn’t reach unity gain (close but not equal).
* Could be a malfunctioning component?.
* Could be a non-proper wiring?
* Which current EH adaptor could I use to run this pedal properly?.
Any ideas and suggestions will be welcome.
NOTE: I didn’t made any mod, I already bought the pedal as I’ve described. The previous owner didn’t mod the pedal too (he received it already modded too).
Thank you everybody.
Nacho
Stoner WizardParticipantQuote:Someone said this is normal behaviour for this pedal. Can that be true? I can’t imagine it being even remotely useful like this.
No-one else have one?Hello:
I was thinking on getting one of these via eBay, but finally I decided not to go for it. I’ve read some opinions about this but I didn’t draw any clear conclusion. I preferred not to take any risk and bought the present reissue (the latest round-knob type and cardboard pack).
Maybe the reissue is not as “magic sounding” as the original, but at least (as I’ve tried until today) I don’t have noticed volume drop issues. I think that certain settings go over unity gain.
I’ve found interesting when used at 100 % wet, you may tweak with the “Shift” to interact with a delay pedal set at the edge of self oscillation. It’s really piercing or booming (depending the filter is engaged or not).
For heavy distortion, the Frequency Analyzer with the bass filter engaged is a low-end mayhem. In fact, I use it to boost distorted chords that rely on certain interval notes that make usable harmonies or unison-string chord.
The advantage of EH big boxes is that they seem easier to work and tweak with them. Good luck!
Regards
Nacho
June 17, 2009 at 10:31 am in reply to: Ideas for the next batch of diecast RI pedals and possible EHX pedals of the future. #97991Stoner WizardParticipantHello:
I quote myself from anther tread to place my “suggestion”.. The Screamin’ Mole Muff
Quote:“The Screamin’ Mole Muff”:What would be a 2 Big Muff circuits cascaded in series, with two switches to activate a bass booster (Mole), a treble booster (Screaming Bird).
Chassis: A sheet metal DMM-size would be fantastic, but… a new DMM chassis to make it pedalboard-friendly and conquer “new generation” buyers.
Knobs (of course, black pointer-knob style for classic size, or the ones used with the Hot Tubes for new style chassis)
* Volume: Output Level
* Tone: The typical Muff control.
* Big Muff: Sustain and gain for 1st Big Muff
* Bigger Muff: Gain for 2nd Big Muff. It should have a switching device to activate the knob if you wanted to use one or two BM at the same time.
* Mole: Bass boost level.
* Scream: Treble boost level.Switches:
* Killer Tone: To emphasizing certain freqs, to be used in conjuntion with tone control. A three way-switch with: “Thud” (low-mids), “Attack” (mids) and “Screech” (hi-mids).
* Mole On/Off: For heavy bass boost (a built-in EH “Mole”).
* Scream On/Off: For treble boost (a built-in EH “Screamin’ Bird”)Volts: It depends, I suppose. If it’s a two-pedal in one (like the MXR Doubleshot), maybe 18 volts would be fine. If it was a single-pedal concept, a higher than 9 volt voltage (12 V or 18 V) would add more “room” to the sound.
That’s the “theory”, but I’d like to know how such a weird thing would sound.
Regards
This is sci-fi (or not?, considering EH’s weird designs).
Another more “realistic” suggestions:
* A feedback loop pedal, to place you pedals in, and then… expressway to mayhem.
* A fuzz/random octave (to 2 oct-down) like my beloved MXR Blue Box, but with a third gain control apart from output volume and blend. It’d be nice in a XO box as Stereo Pulsar, #1 Echo… etc.
Regards.
Nacho
-
AuthorPosts