Yeah and I pretty much hate The Edge so i’m not playing his covers… nor have I ever seen a cover band play one of his songs out of many, many bands.

I don’t think this pedal has quite the appeal you make out to warrant a special run for one type of particular sound, however, I think there will be something out there that can do it but it will lead to a lot of experimenting, as the Edge himself does.

And EH Man… does this remind you of a Burst Box to some extent?

Oh and to answer your question about WHY we can’t just create 1 second delays at the drop of the hat (Even though they now have) the more stages you add to an analog delay (More stages equals more delay time) the more the signal is processed and begins to degrade in quality, you can fight it to some extent with filtering and gain but past about 1 second with analog chips is pretty pointless and digital will win, analog also becomes very expensive compared to digital, the old chips can run up to $50 each bought off the current market, I assume EHX payed somewhere around $10-20 each at a guess but still, there’s atleast $40 per unit in one particular part not including everything else so it begins to get expensive and when things get expensive, you cut out a part of the market and EHX has always been a company for your average guitarist who can’t afford boutique.

I also think it’s a bit closed minded to assume all digital is ‘crap’ I admit it, I love the old polaroid camera shots and stuff too, but you can get good digital cameras and the majority of photographers would not have moved on to them unless they were a useful tool for there craft. Simmilarly, I wouldn’t have an EHX Micro Pog if we’d stuck to Analog, it just has its limits, EHX still produce Analog effects though as they know the guitarist wants them and that sound but digital isn’t always bad and the products they produce suit most peoples purposes… as long as they don’t want to sound like the Edge.

Without checking the clip, i’d suggest the EHX Freeze for Sustain.

Actually… looking at your pedal it doesn’t conform quite to that schematic, nor does it seem to have a 1uF Tantalum as far as I can spot…

Regards substitute anyway, yes a 1uF Electrolytic would most likely be fine, as would an Orange Drop Cap, the 1uF Tantalum was probably chosen for its cost and small size when this was produced and while you should always keep the polarity how it was originally, the polarity is not required so a Non Polar cap would be fine.

You say you replaced all the other Electrolytics in the circuit? I’ll have a think of what else to try if so.

Switch Pop, Electrolytics once again could cause that, measure for any DC voltage on the output of the circuit and try adding a 1M Resistor from the Input Jack/Circuit Input to Ground.

With a vintage pedal, especially one over 20-30 years old, replacing the Electrolytics and Tantalum Caps is almost always a good idea, especially in the LFO and any in the Power & V.Ref area, that may very well resolve your issue.

Edit: If the Schematic I have is correct, i’d start with the 1uF Tantalum & 50uF Electro in the LFO, I bet that solves the problem, but you should replace the others anyway.

Yeah the Holy Grail should be if it’s new.

Your theory i’m afraid isn’t sound, now if you had a buffered bypass pedal in the chain such as a BOSS, you’d be in more luck… you should have some form of buffer regardless.

True bypass doesn’t ‘Stack up’ the same as Non-True Bypass doesn’t, each individual pedal will have a different effect, the point of true bypass is to take all the circuit out the chain and just run one pedal into the next as if the pedal you have bypassed wasn’t even there.

Non true bypass will keep the effect in the chain, but just cut out whatever effect it was supposed to be providing which is where You also have impedance matches to worry about, some pedals react differently with different impedances from the pedal before running into them… it’s rather complex and you’re at the mercy of the effect designers with no standards, this is why people have such problems with the Fuzz Face – Cry Baby combo.

Buffers are useful to prevent tone loss from excess cable which has a small amount of capacitance that can cut highs, it’s advisable to have one at the start of your chain and one at the end (Say a BOSS Tuner at the Start and… whatever at the end).

If you notice tone suck with the Memory man, stick it in a True Bypass Loop, problem solved.

That’s just all the tip of the iceberg, you’ll have to do some indepth reading if you really want to understand it, but best to just play it by ear in my opinion.

Does it though…?

Seems to have 1s of Delay as opposed to 550mS.

Agreed, back to the old days where you had to set the knobs on the Memory Man to the Stars for Chorus.