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ScruffieMember
Glad I could help
If you want to solve the volume drop there are mods online to counteract it that are fairly easy to implement,ScruffieMemberReplacing chips at random isn’t the best way to go about this.
First off, is this a vintage unit or reissue? If you’re unsure, if there is a square cut out in the circuit board with a blue switch using more than 3 lugs, it’s a reissue.
Second, do you have or have access to a digital multimeter? If you do, can you post voltages of all 4 chips in the pedal going in this direction…
Chip
Notch
1 8
2 7
3 6
4 5and the 3 (or 4 depending if vintage/early reissue or reissue) transistors.
Third, since you’ve owned the pedal, did it ever work? If so did anything specifically happen to it before it stopped?
ScruffieMemberIt’s not the voltage you have to worry about, it’s the 1mA current limit on the chip inputs and the 2mA current limit on Iabc, if there’s more current with more voltage (ohm’s law) and it exceeds that, any of the chips hit with it’ll die, they aren’t forgiving.
Let’s use pin 3 (v.ref on each phase stage and only a 1mA limit on that pin) as an example… stock 10V goes through a 15k resistor in the voltage divider, that’s 0.67mA of current if we use ohm’s law, we put in 20V for arguments sake across the same resistor and we have 1.3mA and a dead chip.
Not to mention, the closer you get to those current limits, the more likely you are the chip will begin to distort or behave strangely.
You can risk 12V if you want, 15V and the chips are dead.
ScruffieMemberDo you have a multi meter to take voltage readings? Should be possible to spot what’s wrong with them.
ScruffieMemberI would not suggest it, the pedal uses the CA3094 chip which can die VERY easily from over current (unless EHX have moved on to the 13700 in some of the big box units like the nano which will handle a bit more punishment but still easily killed, thankfully a bit more easy to source now at least though) and additional voltage may take it out of the safe zone.
It can be modded to help with the volume drop with a resistor value change or a post volume boost can be used (stick it in a true bypass loop with an LPB-1 after it? Or find someone to build one internally) and anyway, I wouldn’t have thought you’ll get much more volume benefit from going ever higher in voltage anyway.
Sadly it is part of the design, back in the day it wasn’t so much of an issue without true bypass and probably guitarists having 2-3 pedals max but times change.
Short answer, I wouldn’t do it unless you want a new door stop.
ScruffieMemberI found a really bad copy online some time a go but managed to pull what I think is correct from the text. Hopefully it’s readable with the formatting.
Operating Instructions:
This totally new accessory for electric guitar or bass permits
many synthesizer effects to be duplicated in live performance.
Separately adjustable attack, decay, harmonic content and direct
signal blend can be set to (yield?) tape reverse effects, slap echo,
complex envelope modulation, sharp chops or synthesized violin,
cello, string bass, toy piano, piano, banjo, horns, etc.Plug the unit into an AC-outlet and turn it ON. Coinnect your
instrument to the input jack, amplifier to the output. Unmodified
signal is available at the DIRECT output and at the effect output
alterenating with the processed signal when the footswitch is
thrown. Operation is most reliable when only the rhythm pick-up
is used and the guitar volume is at or near maximum.Set SENSITIVITY about 1/3 of the way up, HARMONICS all the way
down, BLEND fully clockwise (proceeded signal only), and ATTACK
and DECAY about 1/3 up. Play a single note and if no effect is
heard, throw the footswitch. The attack-decay should be heard,
and the infinite variety of effects possible by varying the
controls can be explored.The best setting for the SENSITIVITY control is where it triggers
Reliably for notes on the high strings but doesn´t multiple-trigger
When playing the lowest string. Once found this setting should
not be changed. This unit works best for single notes and some
basic two-string chords; complex or discordant chords will cause
multiple triggering. The EDGE switch adds bite to the effect of the HARMONICS control.EFFECT CONTROL SETTINGS
Attack Decay Harmonics Blend
Tape medium or minimum as desired processed signal
reverse long only
Slap echo minimum short or med as desired midway
Modulated short or med min to med as desired as desired
envelope
Sustain* minimum maximum as desired processed sig only
Chops min or short short or min as desired processed sig only
Violin, medium med or long as desired processed sig only
Cello
Acoustic min or short medium as desired as desired
bass
Bowed bass medium medium as desired processed sig only
Toy Piano minimum short med or high processed sig only
Piano minimum medium medium processed sig only
Banjo minimum short maximum processed sig only
Horns min or short maximum med or high processed sig only
(EDGE on)
* Set SENSITIVITY at or near maximumScruffieMemberQuote:Hello, Does anyone know what op amps are used in the Y Triggered filter. They are not marked on my pedal-which has stopped producing the wha effect. This unit sounded good with my bass when it was working. The effect was good but not over the top like alot of the wah pedals. PhilipThe schematic I redrew lists 2 x 4558 Dual Opamps and one EH1048 OTA (House Stamped CA3094).
What makes you think the OpAmps are at fault? Have you attempted to debug the unit?.
ScruffieMemberI’d much rather see the EHX Queen triggered wah or Treadle Bad Stone reissued in an updated format.
But I don’t think they’re gunna bring any Reissues back at this stage in the game, I think they’ve moved past the originals and are moving forward.
Some kind of new digital wah could be pretty damn interesting though… although i’m not sure what they’d have it do.
Other than the fact that a Wah Shell is going to cost them a fair bit to be designed, adding an expression output to pedals seems to be the new flavour as it offers the best of both worlds.
ScruffieMemberhttp://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=29816.0
Can’t help without debugging info.
Only guesses are, you got a solder bridge, overheated a component or resoldered something and caused a bad joint.
ScruffieMemberQuote:It’s not 500ma It’s 100Ma like most of there pedals. I was thinking the holy frail reverb which is 300Ma and most power supplies are set at 100ma.The power supply may be rated to provide 100mA, but that’s not how much it actually draws.
Big Muff current drain varies from around 1-30mA Max.
ScruffieMemberQuote:9volt 500 miliamp most pedal board power supplies are too weak for this pedal.There is no way it draws 500mA… more like 5mA
ScruffieMemberYou need a C100k Pot or 100k Reverse Log, same thing.
Smallbear might carry a suitable one.
ScruffieMemberQuote:carefully unscrewed and replaced. no joy.no delay!
when i turn up all the knobs you can hear a beeping coming through my amp. the osciliting rate changes when i turn the depth knob. the pitch changes when i adjust the delay knob. the tab seems to work. but noy guitar signal coming through. All of this was happening earlier.
yikes!
Sounds like your clock’s working then.
Have you tried making sure those 4 chips are properly seated themselves? Make sure to ground yourself when you do it.
ScruffieMemberQuote:Sounds like the original or it’s different?
Another question: it’s digital or analog?Thanks!
Still listed as ‘Analog Chorus/Flanger/Slapback Echo’
Probably changed it over to the new production BBDs, hence the 9V instead of 24V… probably a complete redesign in which case.
ScruffieMemberTry that debugging first but it IS however possible that the switch in the Switchblade is dodgy and that’s why you’re getting bleed, switches are mechanical and prone to failure.
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If you want to solve the volume drop there are mods online to counteract it that are fairly easy to implement,
