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ScruffieMember
Reissue, no doubt about it, stereo, no fixed power chord, 2 LEDs and the condition!
Yes the LED is just a power indicator,that’s normal.
ScruffieMemberNo… it produces 1024 stages of delay just like the old BBD, it just uses N-Channel FETs instead of P-Channel and is in modern production where as the old chip is not. It functions the same.
Perfectly acceptable and no lies of saying it uses a NOS BBD when it doesn’t.
The resistors are SMD instead of 1/4 now too and the modern transistors used will have higher gain than the 80s models… i’d still call it the same circuit though.
If the chip has the same specs as the old one is another matter though, but I think the marketing is sound.
ScruffieMemberIt’s normal, they changed the switch position to be in line with the other nano effects and also to move it further from the foot switch so it isn’t knocked.
ScruffieMemberCould be a dodgy solder joint somewhere.
ScruffieMemberThis should be close enough actually, some minor differences between it and the modern schematic but it’s completely verified.
ScruffieMemberQuote:Where are you based? I’ve not had a chance to pop the lid off yet.It’s only lack of a scope (and an accurate schematic) that’s stopping me from trying to fix it myself- I was an engineer at Laney, but with no scope I’m not sure how much diagnostics I can do!
I was wondering if it’s the regulator (or a buffer stage), depending on how the power LED is wired…
Thanks
BenIt can likely be repaired without a scope as the EH man said, just taking the voltages with a DMM might reveal the culprit.
I have the factory schematics if required.
ScruffieMemberI’m in the UK and can take a look.
I very much doubt it’s the BBD.
ScruffieMemberIt’s probably an issue of daisy chaining your digital pedals, try giving the micro pog and echo#1 isolated supplies.
ScruffieMemberThanks for the photos!
Not sure when i’m going to find time to trace through at this time of year but i’ll be interested to see what’s going on and report back when I know.
I also suggest you post the photos at freestompboxes.org as someone there may very well trace them faster than I.
ScruffieMemberVery interesting
I have a theory… I have seen a mummy face with the 4049 and vibrato toggle before it went to having the manual control and perhaps this is earlier and using the audio path of the 4049 bad stone (which used 3 OpAmps ignoring the phase shift stages or as here, 2 x 741s and a transistor working as the buffer OpAmp) but they hadn’t developed the way of biasing the 4049 they did later maybe.
The 2N3563 on the schematic is to do with the bias, yes the SCOTT transistors in the dot package were 2N4302s (I might be wrong but isn’t SCOTT Mike Matthews son?) perhaps one transistor is to produce a hyper triangle LFO wave like the later models…
Doesn’t quite add up but it’s a start.
Very odd! I may have to draw up a schematic if you can get some more photos as the Bad Stones are one of my favourite phasers.
ScruffieMemberI do have one but am ill at present so I wont get to opening it for a few days but i’m not sure how much it’ll help… you have 5 burnt out components there and it looks like only the resistors are marked.
Have you tried e-mailing EHX for the schematic? Or just requesting the values from the silk screen designators?
ScruffieMemberDo you like it? If so it was a good idea… bit of a redundant question, it’s not what other people think it’s if YOU have a use for it and it suits what you’re playing.
As it’s only a loop though, you could stick any very cheap effect you want in really, it isn’t going to affect your straight signal path… even the cheapest plastic pedal could be useful but it’s only if YOU need it to get a sound you want. Do you want the superego signal to have a chorusy sound? Then a chorus for the loop would be good, do you want it to stutter? Then a tremolo. If you want it to hold your sound and ‘gliss’ between notes and nothing more, then you’ve bought what you want.
Sounds like you’ve bought it without knowing what you want… as it’s a fairly versatile pedal though i’m sure you’ll find some use out of it but perhaps think about what you actually want to do/sound like with an effect before purchasing next time.
ScruffieMemberDoes it really matter? Just clean it off.
ScruffieMemberIn the Small Clone? The Trim pot sets the bias of the MN3007, it shouldn’t really be adjusted unless it goes out with age. It works within a small range and at a point in that range will be set for optimum bias.
You should tweak it for the least distortion with your guitar (you can run a constant signal through to make this easier, building an audio probe and probing just the output of the BBD will help further) or if you have an oscilloscope, do so on the outputs (pins 7 & of it.
The EH Man is known so for a reason, I’ve never worked on a MicroSynth but he’s probably seen that part fail a lot in his time if he’s brought it up.
ScruffieMemberHmm, odd that didn’t work anyway, they’re both dual op-amps, unless you mean you replaced the 358 with the 4558, the LFO might not have kicked in. Besides the point, glad you got it working!
The Micro synth I can help with too but you will need a multimeter if you’re going to attempt it unless it’s an obvious issue to the eye.
In storage I would imagine either some damp got in and there’s some corrosion somewhere or if it’s 20+ years old some of the electrolytic caps have dried up from age.
Hope that can be made to run again too!
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