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rsiferdMember
Yes thanks. I have tried pretty much all the combinations on your site and none work. I suspect it is a problem with the board. I’ve checked all the components, resoldered them, soldered copper wire to the traces and replaced the components but I still get zip. When I replaced the same components on the NYC Reissue board they work fine (Please see “Rams Head Boost”). I’m going to try another board.
rsiferdMemberBeen gone a while. Thanks for the pics. I was looking more for a conversion of a Rams Head but this looks like it’s worth a go. I’ll see if it works, but I may have to get a new board first. the one I’m working on is a little munched.
rsiferdMemberVery nice site and some clear explanations. Thanks you.
rsiferdMemberExcellent, thanks. And, apropos The Continuing BMP Project, the pcb is an excellent repro of the Version 1 Triangle board. The problem seems to have been in the layout diagram that came with it. The values shown for the resistor from the first transistor emitter to ground was 100K rather than 100R and for the second transistor base to ground was shown as 8K2 rather than 82K – simple typos I think. Once I changed the values to those in the schematic it goes like Jack the bear. Great sounding circuit!
rsiferdMemberI will get back to you with this. I went over the layout diagram that came with the pcb and after tracing the circuit against the Pisotones and other schematics I found some seriously variant component values. After replacing the more glaring ones IT WORKS. It doers not work well – yet. There is more to correct. I should have been more dilligent in my comparisons. The pcb is fine; It’s the parts values on the layout that are skewed. And apparently there is a huge difference between 100k and 100r from emitter to ground. Who knew (well … I did, but …). So there it is. How many times do I have to tell myself: “Measure sixteen times, then once more, then cut”. Thank you very much for your patience. I will keep you posted.
RalphrsiferdMemberIs there somewhere else I can send them? I can’t seem to get the image size down to 75kb for this site (I am digitally retarded).
rsiferdMemberI’ve just used .1uf ceramics as per most pics I’ve seen of this version.
rsiferdMemberI don’t know how to post a picture here, I can’t get the file small enough. But it’s the Triangle layout as shown in the Kit Rae Big Muff History site. The schematic is the “Triangle (First Edition)” one from the Pisotones site. I believe the diode orientation is wrong in the diagram I have but after trying all combinations of the four I am still unable to get any sound. I guess it’s back to the drawing board. Thanks.
rsiferdMemberNo electrolytics. NOS 2n5133 from Smallbear.
rsiferdMemberOh, I see. Thanks you for that.
rsiferdMemberAh, I think I see; please correct me if I am wrong here. So in the original, the stomp switch NOT being of the true bypass type, the battery would be “on ” constantly and would run down quickly. Hence the On/Off switch. This would render the effect unuseable when turned off and would be unnecessary in the conjunction with a true bypass stomp switch.
R
rsiferdMemberIsn’t that the function of the stomp switch? Or how do the two interact?
rsiferdMemberOk, thanks.
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