the vintage Clone Theory’s sound is absolutely amazing. :metal: especially if you are looking to do some wild/experimental/progressive/whatever type stuff when it’s engaged. you can dial in the perfect chorus tone, but allow the theory to push its limits :freak:

get a small clone (full chassis) for standard chorus purposes.

i really don’t think the XO version can compare. it’s like the clone theory is to the small clone what the grail plus is to the holy grail: “upgrades” on the classic stompboxes. btw: in both cases i wonder where the “plus” is…

the original models are huge & need specific power supply. this is a board drawback. they are also hard to find. eBay expect to pay approx $200, and that’s when there is one up for auction. there is one up now if anyone wants to join the fight for it. :nono:

a link to an ok demo of the vintage model, clean & dirty, with a Jag :rawk:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dtla1EGFjGQ

if you are looking into the new clone theory, look for a vintage one. if you can’t seem to find one, or your local shop has one they want $350 bucks for (not hyperbole) — then look into the Stereo PolyChorus. the poly does some wild things with the unprecedented EHX chorus sound. if you just want that classic ehx chorus, the small clone is a no-brainer. but for a box that has much more capabilities, the polychorus (chorus, flange, flangematrix, & an echo-type setting) is the contemporary way to go. and as aforementioned, the vintage Theory is the better pedal, if available.
:thumb:

No, what I’m saying is this:
The sovtek enclosures,especially the cast green ones rule, the overall look of the pedal and the big silver DPDT switches rulle too and I love the look of the sovteks,hence I bought them with the intent of modifying them to my liking!

BTW,playing thru a black sovtek gives you absolutely zero idea of what the NYC Reissues,originals sound like. they are apples and orranges as far as I’m concerned.

I dont have a problem with the Sovtek quality,aside from the cheap pots, I just dont like the sound of them,same goes for triangle muffs.

Its capacitor values in key places that make them sound like shit, for starters they use 2 X 47nF caps in the clipping stages (this is the one and only reason they are boomy as hell)when the absolute minimum should be 100nF and 1uF being ideal. All the other caps,aside form the pF caps which are fine are 100nF and at least 3/4 of them should be 1uF.

My favorite sovteks are the cast aluminum ones,this covers the first green ones and the so called “civil war” ones and the red army overdrive.The folded steel green ones are ok but not as aesthetically pleasing as the big heavy cast ones.[/quote]

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obviously you have listed some details above, but i’m far from a boutique artist so i need an instruction manual :worried:

can you point to to any websites that detail the mods you prefer? i’m getting an extra black russian muff to mod. (well a green tank if i can find one) i’ve heard of the ‘creamy dreamer’ & ‘choc shake’ but am not overly impressed; they seem to just give more gain (from what i’ve heard in shops, youtube, etc). specifically, i would like to get a higher, brighter tone out of this 2nd muff. or even just installing better pots and/or caps? any insight would be appreciated. thanks…

:thumb:

do you happen to know/have/direct me towards/etc… the mod for a ’79 V3? thanks…

ryan
:thumb:

thanks. yeah i definitely am going to get another big muff, to have 1 set at that “darker” fuzz and the other “brighter.” i figured the wicker switch really makes the treble and highs explode, just wanted your opinion (again b/c we have similar rig).

i’ve also been considering getting a(nother) russian, sovitek muff and doing a mod to it. there’s the “creamy dreamer” or “chocolate shake” recipe. the “c.d.” mod is supposedly EXACTLY what billy corgan used on “siamese dream” :facepalm: that was just a marketing ploy. he used a russian muff, but no modification (maybe better pots or jacks, etc) — but the first time he heard the “creamy dreamer” sound was when “they” (not ehx) sent him a free one to try out. the legend grows 😆

but anyway, from what i’ve heard from these mods, they don’t give me that higher end that i want; they just seem to increase the gain. the muff has plenty of that.

ANYONE THAT KNOWS HOW TO MOD A RUSSIAN MUFF TO GIVE ME “BRIGHTER” TONES WHILE MAINTAINING THE GAIN PLEASE LET ME KNOW !!!

but i think i’m going to get the b/m pi with wicker for now, because that is exactly what i’m aiming for, no mods necessary. although i do want to start being able to modify my own effects. i’m going to get a DIY stomp box kit and make my own distortion pedal. only $40 from an ebay dealer (it’s item # 200312006064) if you want to check it out. it should be fun and when you’re done will have a unique fuzz box (relatively speaking…)

well thanks again for confirming my plan to get the b/m w/ wicker — it should give me all the distortion sounds i can possibly incorporate into my songs. :rawk:

don’t forget to let me know how your jag turns out. FYI – sometimes jazzmasters and jaguars get some buzzing, even with a lock-tight bridge. you can get a “buzz-stop roller” to fix this. costs about $30-$40. my usa ’62 ri jazz buzzes just the smallest bit, but only on the low E, so it kinda sounds cool; it gives power chords, especially when in drop D, some extra grit. :freak: but if you hear that buzz, don’t panic. :nono: it is not uncommon with jags/jzms. first you can try, being VERY SUBTLE, lowering the soapbar pickup at the bridge (simple – just slightly tighten the screws to lower it, or loosen them to bring the pickup back up. if you still hear it, you’ll probably need the buzz-stop roller.

i would get the lock-tight bridge, adjust the soapbars, and if you still hear buzzing, the buzz-stop roller will complete one fine fender.

best regards – peace

:thumb:

that is wild… small world…

i have a usa jazz and the mustang as my backup (it is one action-packed backup though :rawk: . BUT, i did have my local shop — Philadelphia, PA — (dipintoguitars.com) install a “lock” bridge (designed for mustang) to keep the saddles in place — the low E wanted to wander. other than that slight setup, the jazz has been divine for going on a decade now. (also used to play a rickenbacker 360, but that went the way of Ebay – debt to pay 😥 )

def. get a mustang (or another lock-tight) bridge setup on your jaguar. (unless the jaguar already has lock-tight bridge, but i do not think so)

yeah, i have tried the Boss DD, but as you said, i’m trying to keep it analog, that’s why i think i’m going to go with the mxr carbon copy — tried out memory boy the other day and wasn’t overly impressed; there is too much modulation going on. actually won a vintage small stone on ebay last night – full chassis, 1979 serial #, i’m excited. so after delay I SHOULD be done the great pedal adventure, but it’s never really over, you just get to rest at some points along the way…

i also have a marshall valvestate – ha – small fn world. yeah & the DS-1 (or your ds-2) next to the Russian Big Muff (or your bmuffpi w/ wicker) allows some “levels” of distortion that really make licks jump (i.e. some less abrasive distortion in a verse (DS-1) and then explode into the chorus (Big muff).

wah pedals — my vox 841 has nice tone, but no true bypass. i’m looking into ordering the mod kit for it (about $30). without the bypass, it does suck some tone from my line; for now it’s in my backpack next to my amp. the vox 841A is essentially the same wah pedal, but WITH true bypass, and obviously more expensive. the dunlop cry baby is always a good choice, digitech makes some good wah sounds (but you’re trying to stay away from digital). my main advice is TRUE BYPASS. don’t let a pedal dictate your guitar’s sound. and wah pedals, b/c their sweeping range hits the highest highs & lowest lows, can be the biggest sucker in your effects chain. my advice would be VOX or a crybaby, make sure of ‘with true bypass.’

keep rocking. let me know how your jag turns out. peace :thumb:

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vox 847 or 847A — not 841 — :doh: my bad

yeah the combination of big muff pi w/ tone wicker & a holy grail will make you forget the holy stain even exists. excellent choices – you’re going to love the sounds you can achieve with that tandem. :clap:

enjoy.

fyi – if you like chorus, the small clone adds an excellent addition to the muff/grail combo.