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Ned FlandersModerator
You can also buy a VDC 1,500mA adapter from cheap as chips for about 10bucks. You can make it negative center or positive center and it has a switch on it to go from 4VDC to 12VDC.
If you buy one make sure you read the instruction to get the polarity right.
They rock, are cheap,quiet and if you use a daisy chain they can power a shit load of pedals being 1,500mA and all.
Ned FlandersModeratorThe M10M is 100k as I have soem of these spare myself and I measrued them. If you have only one 10k one use it for the sustain knob and use the 100k’s for the tone(quite important) and the other for the volume.
10k in the tone will drastically change the tone sweep of the muff. 200k is fine but not so much 10k.
The sustain SHOULD be fine with 10k.
Ned FlandersModeratorAnother new Muff, so another new pic. This is the 2008 Revision C version, it sounds identical to the tonewicker muff in standard mode (same schem basically)….as identical as any two muffs can sound that is. Sounds great.Best muff since 1980 easily and easily one of the best period IMO!
(right click view image to view all eleven muffs)
March 2, 2010 at 12:24 am in reply to: This guy is nuts, right? (Double Muff history content) #108083Ned FlandersModeratorYou know you can modify the muff fuzz OD into a one knob woolly mammoth with just a few parts? Just a FYI!
Never actually done it but the schematics are near identical.
March 1, 2010 at 12:32 am in reply to: This guy is nuts, right? (Double Muff history content) #108051Ned FlandersModeratorDouble big muff pi? its not even ONE big muff pi! :LOL:
Ned FlandersModeratorYou dont even need a schematic, just replace cap for cap.
Ned FlandersModeratorThere’s a wire that goes from the input jack to the pcb then it continues to the switch, this wire connects to one of the lugs that have one next to it.
Then there’s a wire coming from the PCB, that goes to the lug next the the one mentioned above.
Then there’s a wire coming form the output jack,that goes to the lug on its own.EDIT: here’s a diagram:
Ned FlandersModeratorThat diagram is fine but if you still need help PM me.
But here’s a diagram anyways, I come up with this TB wiring method and its all I use.
http://i1016.photobucket.com/albums/af286/fenderamerica/Pedal Schematics/MYTBSWITCH.png
The LED positive goes to a 2k7 resistor then to 9VDC.
Ned FlandersModeratorAll Sovteks need extensive modifications to sound good IMO! But they can sound great with little time spent as the mods are very quick to do.
Ned FlandersModeratorIn my signature, click on kits website. Then click on V1/V2, I think he has sound samples of these versions too.
Ned FlandersModeratorNot Russian man. Australian. Thanks.
Ned FlandersModeratorOld parts are fun, i have a soft spot for them too.
Ned FlandersModeratorI t would be better because your signal wouldnt leak into the effect when bypassed and drain some of the signal strength.
It requires only one more piece of wire to what you already have.
Some non true bypass, like sovtek big muffs, are fine but they use a different non true bypass than the american big muffs that helps prevent signal leak.
Ned FlandersModeratorYeah they are expensive, he also gave me three huge boxes of NOS tubes and said “here, go thru these and keep the ones you like” I only found two that I wanted (out of a couple hundred), 2x Phillips long plate 12AX7’s. I was disappointed I didn’t get a bunch of them… I if played a Marshall i could have kept way more but I don’t own a Marshall so I lucked out.
He’s into old tube radios and stuff so that’s why he has so much stuff.
With using small vero layouts you should use small box caps like Topmay, BC components, MKT and Wima, they are small package caps even up to 10uF.
Ned FlandersModeratorCool, I’ll check your blog from time to time to see what you been up to with your effectors!
Them 6n8 mustards you have, an old man across the street gave me a heap of them in 10n, 12n, 22n, 27n, I just use them in my guitars…..they remind me of Jim Morrison “a mojo rising”.
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