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Ned FlandersModerator
DiMarzio humbuckers and SD single coils.
Ned FlandersModeratorI’ll take a pic and post it for you today some time.
Ned FlandersModeratorThe re issues arent true bypass. You cant have true bypass in stereo with a blue 3PDT switch.
Is yours a stereo polychorus?
Ned FlandersModeratorQuote:Quote:Maybe Someone can give me some cool settings for Russian Big Muff?I don’t have a russian muff (only a usa) but for me I like the sustain pretty much maxed out, the volume a little over my clean signal and the tone somewhere between 11 and 1 o’clock…..but it really depends what amp you are using, you might find a better way to have it for yourself.
This the only way to use a Big Muff IMO.
Ned FlandersModeratorIs it a re issue pedal? if it is I may be able to help you.
Ned FlandersModeratorQuote:Quote:A vacuum tube ipod would be an excellent hand warmer in the winter.Interesting idea.
Might be redundant driving a digital medium through a tube.But then again, even if the sound isn’t warm; at least your hands will be!
Ned FlandersModeratorQuote:and don’t worry I’m from england and my english isn’t always perfect either!
lolNed FlandersModeratorQuote:Quote:I just read thru your site again, all looks good now!
I’ll upload them 3 schematics today and get them to you.Wow. There is quite a difference between the 3003-A component values and the 3003-B. Only a few minor changes from B to C.
Has anyone here played the NYC Muff with the version A circuit next to one with a B or C circuit side by side to see what changed in the tone? Many of the other folks I correspond with tell me they hate the sound of the current NYC Muff, but my version A sounds pretty good. Now I’m wondering if these changes altered the sound.
I think the wicker muff, in normal mode, is the same as the 3003C, I’m not 100% on this but just from looking at the guts of my BMPTW and comparing the C schematic they look similar.
If this is true then the C is the best sounding muff around IMO, much nicer than the A.
I’ll be buying another NYC soon cause I want to C for my collection.Ned FlandersModeratorA high resolution pic of the guts would help.
Ned FlandersModeratorThe pots EHX use are fine, there’s nothing at all wrong with them.
Most of the caps are SMD, a few are thru hole. Unless you have the schematic you will be swapping parts blindly and even if you have the schematic you need to know what to change anyways.
And considering it has a three band EQ swapping a couple of caps wont do anything turning a knob wont do anyways.Ned FlandersModeratorFor better results use it in front of your amp.
February 23, 2009 at 11:50 pm in reply to: Schematic for Clone Theory Original required eh-cl3000 #93883Ned FlandersModeratorYou need this switch here: http://www.smallbearelec.com/Detail.bok?no=37
February 23, 2009 at 10:46 pm in reply to: Schematic for Clone Theory Original required eh-cl3000 #93876Ned FlandersModeratorYou shouldn’t need a schematic for that, just post some photo’s of the old switch for us.
Ned FlandersModeratorI don’t mean to offend you in any way but considering you are asking how to make a buffer/splitter and what SMD is I think its too technical for you to do. I hate working on SMD myself and I only ever do if its necessary. If you want a dry blend just get a bass big muff or something else. SMD is surface mount devices, they are tiny components about 3mm long and 1.5mm wide, you need a pretty powerful magnifying glass to read the values on them and perform any work on circuits that use SMD. The LBM is SMD and the PCB is double sided, its very cramped in there which makes work very fiddly and you need to be familiar with it and know exactly what you are doing or you will destroy your pedal, i’ve seen it happen time and time again.
Ned FlandersModeratorBest vintage big muff=Version 6 from 81.
Best modern big muff= tone wicker muff. -
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