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Ned FlandersModerator
Its the new version if it cost you $50 or so and is black thin sheet metal with a yellow font, chickenhead style knobs and doesn’t weigh much.
Ned FlandersModeratorYou can only flip the PCB on a few sovtek versions, some of them the traces will ground out on the enclosure and the pedal wont work. The current issues of it are flippable though.
Ned FlandersModeratorQuote:I did the true bypass conversion on my black russian bigmuff with smaller switch. I am 99% sure it is all done correctly thanks to some coaching from Liberty and some others. It still does not function. I have not worked on this type of electronics before but I am an 11yr cable maint tech for the telco. I can read a meter, am familiar with working DC voltage and troubleshooting. What is my next logical step in troubleshooting this puppy?Currently it lights up and has sound when bypassed, dead with the light on.
Then your LED and bypass wiring is more than likely correct.
Check the effect in/out wiring. Also check for solder bridges.Pots wired correctly?
effect output is a wire coming from volume lug 2.Ned FlandersModeratorQuote:Smallbear has the big stomp switches too: http://www.smallbearelec.com/Detail.bok?no=454
but the blue 3PDT switches are better quality.
Depends on your version and what you want to do.Yes but they dont fit every russian, there three varieties of that big silver switch, I have the first version, smallbear sells the second version, and theres a third version. 2&3 arent compatible with the first version which is found on the first issue green muffs, not the folded ones, the cast ones.
Ned FlandersModeratorIts also the latest revision of the big muff! Its slightly different than the 2000 model.
Ned FlandersModeratorDoes it have a blue switch with 9 lugs on it and at least 8 wires going to them lugs? If so, its true bypass.
Or if its got a black switch with 6 lugs with a wire going to each on it and the pedal has no LED,it is true bypass.
Ned FlandersModeratorQuote:Quote:When I started this project I had a dead big muff and it was suggested here that it was likely the switch. Mod is 100% now and I still have no sound unless it is bypassed. I have another issue somewhere. Now I have hours invested and no payoff, still just broken.I bought a Russian Muff in a pawn shop and got home and the volume only worked from like 8 to 11 o’clock so it wouldn’t get loud enough. Tried every true bypass/wiring mod I could and never could get it working right. So you know what I did? I bought a new Russian Muff then wired my old one just like the new one and that fixed it! Now I have two Russian Muffs and the new one I added the Green mod and Tone switch mod and it smokes. It seems like a lot of diagrams on the net don’t work! It doesn’t mean you can’t fix it though. If I get time I’ll try to post the guts and connections on one of mine to show you!
My diagrams work because I drew them up right after I TB’d all my sovteks.(plus is you follow the audio path you see it works just from looking at the diagrams) I cant speak for the others online,never tried them. From what I’ve observed, a lot of people cant follow simple dot to dot type instructions though.
Ned FlandersModeratorThere is two wires on two positions in un TB mode, just discard them and wire it as the diagram shows, the diagram is perfect so it you follow it 100% it will work.
Ned FlandersModeratorTo S2 on the PCB.
Ned FlandersModeratorI’ll try explain it in a few ways.
You cut the trace just between the tip of the input jack and the first resistor you come to.
Make it so the trace coming off of the tip of the input jack does NOT touch that first resistor.
So, input jack tip is soldered to trace, then that trace goes into the purple wire then the trace continues into that first resistor, cut trace so it doesn’t touch the resistor.
Then the green wire connecting to the trace on the bottom of the diagram goes directly to that first resistor near the trace you cut and that is your FX input.
What you are doing is isolating the FX input from the input jack,hence,making it true bypass.
If you are using a Blue 3PDT switch use the switch wiring on the left of the diagram.
Ya see on the bottom of the PCB where I have T1 T2 T3 S1 S2 S3 V1 V3 etc, well they refer to the pot lugs of sustain, tone and volume. the reason theres no V2 is because V2 is connected to the switch and is your effect output.
Ned FlandersModeratorI’ve done numerous diagrams using stock switches and newer blue 3PDT’s, they are in the mod pages thread,they may help you out.
https://www.ehx.com/forums/viewthread/117/Ned FlandersModeratorQuote:Edited your title to be more specific. Ned should know the answer!I dont though cause I use UK power suplies with plug adapters cause I buy from the states and i can only get UK adapters with them.
Ned FlandersModeratorIIRC (the metal muff isnt being used now so i kinda forget)I always put the metal muff before a big muff because the metal muff is buffered and it effected the big muff sound. I could have this backwards too,just try both ways to hear for the buffer effecting the big muff. (big muff on, metal muff off)
But the small clone should IMO always go after fuzz and distortion.
Ned FlandersModeratorYou can get 3PDT switches from here: http://diystompboxes.com/zencart/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=1&zenid=88ca091d5f0d55e9fd2ed7bc04c5106b
from $6.25 each and shipping is generally cheap.Is yours one with the huge silver switch?
If it is you will need to true bypass it. I’ve done diagrams how to do this here: http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o127/truthandshame/Big Muff/CCCPBIGMUFFTBD.jpg
If it already has the blue switch just replace it wire for wire.Ned FlandersModeratorDid you re connect positive to positive and negative to negative on the battery clip?
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