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Ned FlandersModerator
Your new big muff is the opamp version BTW, it doesnt use any transistors. One of my favorite versions!
Ned FlandersModeratorFor as long as I can remember, at least 4 years since I started visiting the old EHX website, this has been the photo EHX has had up IIRC.
I could be wrong but I really don’t know for sure.
Ned FlandersModeratorThey have always had that pic (them knobs), they haven’t updated it since they re-issued it i think.
Ned FlandersModeratorYeah,initially when I first started collecting muffs I had a RI NYC 3003A version and it sounded different to the one (exact same version) I have now.
I still want to get the 3003B (not too many around me thinks as it was a 2007 revision then the B come out in 2008) and the 3003C, which is the latest issue.
The BMPTW sounds cool though, one of the best they have made in years!
Ned FlandersModeratorWhat people need to remember is that EVERY big muff varies, no matter what issue it is.
EHX/SOVTEK didn’t change parts and values just cause they changed a font!I have schematics traced from tons of alleged variations of the same version big muffs and they are all the same values used.
Buy any two 1981 3034 big muffs or any two 2005 3003-A big muffs, they will sound different. do the same with any two identical green sovteks, they will sound different.
FYI, they will always sound like a big muff but there’s always slight differences.
BTW, I’ve modded Black sovteks into green soveks and couldnt tell the difference, they sounded the same as before the mod, and you shouldn’t be able to either considering its only two resistors that have a sightly different value.
So remember, its very unusual to find any two muffs of the same model to sound the same let alone different models!
What it generally comes down to is: TOLERANCES will effect the sound a lot. And to a smaller degree TYPE of parts will effect it too. And from experience and observation vintage EHX and Sovtek tolerances were all over the place,drastically!
An example of majpr tolerance difference is the pots in my 1966 mustang, they are supposed to be 250k audio pots and indeed they do say they are CTS 250k audio pots but the volume pot is 320k and the tone pot 290k, thats a difference of 70k and 40k and in a guitar that not a great deal but in a big muff tolerances that vary that much will drastically change the sound of any muff. I’m not saying big muffs tolerances vary this much, in fact i highly doubt it but they dont need to vary this much to change the sound in this pedal either. even 5-10k either way will change things. And I havent even mention capacitors and transistors yet!
I have a muff,I think its my 3034 big muff, that should have 3x100k pots, yet one is 90k one is 100k and one is 125k, them tolerances aren’t tight!
Ned FlandersModeratorThey as similar as any other versions. Meaning each unit has about as much variability from unit to unit as any other model BMP.
There’s three versions of the Sovtek PCB, three versions of the big silver switch too.
The black Sovteks differs from the green Sovteks by two resistors…hardly worth mentioning at all IMO.Versions with different letters are jsut that, different letters, they are made from the same schematic with the same values etc. There’s quite a few font/color variations of Sovteks, they all sound pretty much the same though (as much as any two BMP can sound the same) and when the schemtaic does differ, its so minor its barely audible.
Also you should realize no two big muffs of the exact same kind will sound exactly the same,there’s a lot of variation mainly due to tolerances of components used.
Ned FlandersModeratorQuote:I think I will make it the Rams Head. Anyone ever built one of these kits before? Or compared one to the real thing?I built one from spare parts I had lying around and it sounds exactly like a couple of ramsheads I’ve used.
The 10uF input cap version is the best version to build IMO! its thicker than the other versions, you’ll have to refer to the schematic to find out which version it is if you’re using GGG.Ned FlandersModeratorQuote:I know it’s not on the list, but the Metal Muff XO (not Nano) IS the “meanest” Muff. That thing is basically high end nasal black metal in a box….Metal muffs aren’t big muffs! Nor are muff fuzz’s or Muff overdrives.
Ned FlandersModerator10uF input cap ramshead version for sure…its way thicker than any other ramshead or triangle muff!
Ned FlandersModeratorThese are the only two pics I already have of these two wires,they can help you.The two wires go from the switch to the two big blobs of solder on the PCB. The pics are pretty self explanatory. Zoom in on them if you need to.
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o127/truthandshame/Effects Pics/IMGP1276.jpg
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o127/truthandshame/Effects Pics/IMGP1279.jpg
Ned FlandersModeratorYea it all looks fine to me too!
Its an opamp big muff you have there too, one of the best IMO. you can adjust the tone and sustain by swapping/removing resistors of certain values if it dont sound quite right.
Ned FlandersModeratorThe ramshead I made passes unity about the same as a NYC muff. Which isn’t much but its enough.
Its just a combination of certain parts values throughout the entire circuit that dictate if it will pass unity or not I think.
If it doesnt reach unity you could always tone bypass it permanently, that way it would look stock and sound like the tone is around half way but a bit clearer. After all, they are just pedals, not the holy grail…..If I was concerned with 100% vintage correctness my muffs would stil be non true bypass.lol
But if I had the holy grail, I would probably true bypass that too!
I have a 66 mustang, its not 100% vintage correct cause I’ve replaced the pickups and pots etc and wired it differently, these are just minor things to me. SO long as the overall looks still look vintage and the main components are intact i’m not too concerned.
September 7, 2009 at 11:09 am in reply to: Need an opinion on modding a Russian Big Muff Pi… #101258Ned FlandersModeratorLooks are irrelevant in tight and awkward pedals, put them between the in/out jacks maybe.
I wouldn’t be making aesthetic mods to older green/black sovteks in the first place. I mod the circuits to every sovtek i own cause i hate the sound of them but they look stock.They look cool but sound like shit stock IMO.
One of my sovteks is a ramshead muff (sounds spot on to ones I’ve heard too) and one is waiting to be modded into a ramshead, the green tank like one with the cast enclosure.
Ned FlandersModeratorI dont drink bear anymore but when I did it was Becks, Lowenbrau, Carlsberg, Grolsch, Budweiser, Corona, Miller, Coopers Sparkling ale. And of course Coopers homebrew ales.
I pretty much only drink Stolichnaya Vodka straight/shots now.
Ned FlandersModeratorDunno, my IC and 3034 passes unity pretty well in normal mode, they both have tone bypass so that will ALWAYS make them pass unity by a mile too. Its the passive tonestack that eats up the volume, it has a tone recovery stage but I dont think its quite good enough TBH.
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