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Ned FlandersModerator
so does it work in bypass AND on mode? nevermind the oscillation, we can fix that.
Nevermind the color switch for now . There should be four wires going to the PCB, one is the battery, ones is ground, one is effect output and one is effect input, try and locate them.
Ned FlandersModeratorThe effect input and output wires are: Input – the one coming straight from the input jack to the PCB,this also goes to the switch but nevermind that. Output- the one coming from the PCB to the switch.
Follow this true bypass diagram or your SS will oscillate like mad in bypass mode if the color switch is up and it doesn’t have grounded input: (use the one on the left and don’t bother with an LED)
http://i1016.photobucket.com/albums/af286/fenderamerica/Pedal Schematics/MYTBSWITCH.png
“GND” is ground, so use ground on one of the jacks for this.
Ned FlandersModeratorYou have a pic of the component side of the MOGWAI muff yet man?
Ned FlandersModeratorEDIT: after looking at a heap of v2-3 pics I cant tell what this is, PNP or NPN as I have pics of both NPN and PNP with same and different pinouts and electro orientations. LOL
January 24, 2010 at 1:50 am in reply to: Micro Synth PREAMP GAIN ADJUSTMENT: Trim Pot adjustement #106755Ned FlandersModeratorA picture wont be able to accurately tell you anything as trim pots vary in tolerance and a setting on one trim/pedal wont necessarily be identical on another, not to mention all the other components playing a part in it.
Just read the manual about it and adjust it till it sounds good in bypass mode. Either that or just bypass the pre-amp, its what I done with mine as I didn’t like the sound of it in bypass mode. You will need a multi meter to do so.
Ned FlandersModeratorAnalogman is out of stock anyways.
And yes, they did go up in price because they aren’t made anymore. Try ebay, they will still be expensive and you can possibly get a vintage one cheaper.
Ned FlandersModeratorPlay it at live volumes and its a whole other story man!
Anyways, if you swap the 3x 470pF caps for 100pF caps it will increase highs and note definition while maintaining all the low end.
Ned FlandersModeratorQuote:Sovteks typically don’t have as much gain as the USA Muffs, but you can fix them to real easy!.Fixed! 😆
Swap a few caps and resistors and they can sound exactly like a NYC or any other muff you want it too!
BTW, the trannies do have as much gain its the resistor values limiting that gain is all. Every Sovtek tranny I’ve measured has been near 800hFE. You only need 550 or so to make a realy high gain big muff.LOL
Ned FlandersModeratorTrue bypass is exactly the same thing on any unbuffered pedal.
http://www.generalguitargadgets.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=33&Itemid=27
Ned FlandersModeratorThe best thing any guitarist can do is to go to radio shack or its international equivilent and buy a $10 digital multi meter. One that is capable of reading:Resistance, Capacitance, Transistor, Diodes and Volts is all you need. They come with a instruction book to teach you how to use them BTW and are very simple things to use.
Then you can check parts to see if the part in question is indeed the part with an issue. But it probably is a broken/breaking pot.
http://www.mouser.com/ sell them but things are almost impossible to find on mouser without downloading their catalog and finding part numbers or being familiar with parts variables. I don’t have a direct link to them on mouser, you’ll have to search for 24mm split shaft 100k Linear PCB mount long pin pots.
You can just buy this pot http://www.smallbearelec.com/Detail.bok?no=710 and make the knob fit by enlarging the hole in the knob. it can be done.
Or alternatively you can email info@ehx.com and ask them to send one out to you, they may, especially if its still under warranty.
If you have no luck with any of this, report back here and I, or Ron (an EHX genius), will try help some more.
Ned FlandersModeratorYeah but you know how long it took me to find it? quite a while. it was a hairline crack hidden by solder, you couldn’t even see it until you put the iron on the jack input pad and the pad moved around. I tested the pots and switch first, then all the components as the trace looked flawless so i didn’t think there was a problem with it, I even checked the jacks and they were fine. It was only when I went to true bypass (kept the sovtek switches just disconnected the LED’s) it that I noticed the broken trace! 😆
Anyways, it sounds great now, I have V2 ramshead value caps in it, 10k resistors off collectors for a little more gain, they were 12k. And I kept the 470pF caps in it. other than that it uses the stock parts. My other V1 green sovtek sounds like a NYC wicker muff with wicker on but with a stock tonestack, its a real cool pedal that took me over 6 months (I procrastinate and fuck around a lot) to finally be happy with the mods i done to it.
And the latest V1 GRN sovtek is loud as man, I’ve never had such a loud muff before, not without tone bypass anyways.
:thumb:Ned FlandersModerator😆
Oh, it had a broken trace at the input jack is all.
Ned FlandersModeratorNice score! I only like ramsheads with the four electro’s in them, which this seems to have by the look of it.
PNP/NPN, I’m not bothered TBH! But when ever I build I build NPN if possible, its just what I’m used to.
Ned FlandersModeratorSome people make a thing of it to call it a “lambs head muff”. Whats the difference….ram – lamb, both are 100% incorrect! 😆
I just call them ramshead muffs as that’s the nickname they have acquired.
BTW, the only ramshead muffs I like are V2’s (v2 ramshead) as they use 1x 10uF and 3x 1uF caps inplace of all 100nF caps (aside from the 3x 560pF/2x 47nF/1x10nF/1×3.9nF caps) and aren’t boomy and have better low end than V1’s.
Ned FlandersModeratorNew Muff new pic:
(I used my Soviet flag as a back drop 😆 )
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