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Ned FlandersModerator
I WILL NOT pay $300 for an IC muff that everyone hated last year but “loves” now and considering I already have one if thats what they continue to sell at I will settle on owning just one.
Next it will be the 3034 and then there will be NO cheap vintage muffs anymore!
Ned FlandersModeratorThey are getting more expensive, I agree. I got mine for 100 bucks in 08. Now that everyone is like you said, “OMFG, O M F G, Billy corgon used a V4 opamp muff, I MUST have one” thing happened they will only get dearer.
*shakes head at peoples stupidity*
I still wana get another one before they get ridiculous in price.
Really kit should have said NOTHING about it IMO! He has inadvertently ruined it for collectors wanting IC muffs.
All you need to do is look at the sovtek price hike phenomenon and the fact the people were convinced corgan used these(I stillse people advertising such on ebay), also they knew gilmour used them too, it all contributed to the hype around them. And they are more hype than good sounds IME/IMO, just like triangle muffs….most suck,some are brilliant, I only need to see gut shots of them tell this, and which will be boomy pieces of junk and which will be smooth woolly beasts etc etc!Ned FlandersModeratorQuote:It’s not going to make it work but you can solder it to the lower corner of the circuit board where the big holes are.Exactly, all its gonna do is ground the enclosure.
There’s something else wrong.
February 1, 2010 at 9:22 pm in reply to: Mike Matthews hints at a new product: Germanium Muff #107030Ned FlandersModeratorNup, only silicon transistors and IC’s (which contain a bunch of silicon transistors).
Ned FlandersModeratorI would just use some strong glue to glue the split up, then scratch some of the solder mask of the traces (the green coating on the copper) that cross the split because if you dont the solder wont take to it, then solder them up.
Ned FlandersModeratorQuote:I have found a way to upload images ….I might have to do seperate post so you can get an idea of what I have….btw I love my version and have bought two other versions off of ebay that are not like mine both a 3003 and a 3034 board and THEIR is a difference in the sound. How can I re-do my board? As you can see in the pictures it’s cracked.Of course there’s a difference in sound as no two big muffs sound alike! Besides like dev said, the 3034 is a transistor muff and the one you’re posting about now is an IC muff, two totally different things. I have 12 big muffs and not one sounds like the other.
But the schematic,parts values used are 100% identical! (of the IC muffs I mean, yet any two will still sound slightly different)Ned FlandersModeratorDoesn’t really matter what the PCB says or copper clad color or if its phenolic or whatever, the circuit is identical other than one has an on/off switch and one has a tonebypass set up.
I’ve seen around five different PCB layouts for both V4 and V5’s but the circuit is identical. Although, like all EH pedals some component values are different here and there, its not an intentional variation, its a mistake (or substitute because of the correct parts not being available) made by the builder.
I’ve personally traced 2 V4’s and 3 V5’s (real life and foto’s) and what I’ve observed is the circuit is 100% Identical. IMO the V5 is better as it has the tone bypass which is more useful than an on/off switch which is 100% useless to me.
Cool sounding pedals anyways…the IC muffs, I love mine to death!
WHy they bothered making so many different PCB layouts for an identical pedal, I have no idea!!! 😆 The only difference in the TB PCB is a cut trace, if you dont cut the trace it is just a normal non tone bypass pedal……
January 31, 2010 at 9:43 pm in reply to: Mike Matthews hints at a new product: Germanium Muff #106987Ned FlandersModeratorThe sweet’D!
I prefer silicon pedals, but if its a big muff I’ll buy one anyways. 😆
Ned FlandersModeratorYou’ll notice a difference in rotation with audio but it wont effect sustain amount whatsoever,just the o’clock setting of it.
Ned FlandersModeratorThe only thing military in the first sovteks are the switches. The rest is myth.
Ned FlandersModeratorMy new big muff (number 10 😆 ), Its cool that it comes with the battery slide door cause my other 2 don’t have them.: (I haven’t actually received it yet)
January 26, 2010 at 11:08 pm in reply to: Red LED on polychorus can’t tell by looking at it if the pedal is turned on #106856Ned FlandersModeratorIt s easy to me yes but if you have no idea about what you’re doing it may not be so easy.
If you post gut shots of your pedal of the whole thing, people can help you. or if you don’t feel confident enough you can just send it to Ron Neely, his moniker on the forum is The EH Man. YUou could send him a PM about it that’s if you’r in the US. If you’re in Australia I can do it for you.
Ned FlandersModeratorThem pots are fine but not real great for the big muff tone control (but fine for vol and sustain) as that works better with linear. Still useable though, just 12 noon will be around 230 on the audio pot or something like that.
January 26, 2010 at 1:47 am in reply to: Red LED on polychorus can’t tell by looking at it if the pedal is turned on #106825Ned FlandersModeratorYeah, just divert it from the slide on/off switch to the stomp switch. Or use a bi color LED and have both.
Older PC’s were like that, it was a power on LED only.
Ned FlandersModeratorOut of three wires on there I cant tell which is in/out as my SS is a 79 and a different layout than this.
If I had the pedal i could work it out easy enough but without it I cant.
Just wait till the EH man shows up, he’ll know straight away. -
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