No problem.

Just posting this comment in the interest of safety for all who may read it. If I’m reading it then others are reading it.

The tubes run at full plate voltage (like tube amp voltages) and aren’t “diy friendly” effects. It’s not starved plate voltages like many tube pedals. Do not mess with the Tube pedals unless you know what you’re doing. If you know what you’re doing you’re not asking questions here. 😉

What the tubes do is amplify.

@fuzzbuzzfuzz

The conversion to regular DC jack is simple. The 3054c runs on 9volts with a single supply (not bi-polar) so it’s very easy.

Here’s some diagrams for you and anyone else. Only relevant to the Deluxe Big Muff 3054C model.
They are messy, yes. They weren’t intended to share but for my own reference and so I’ve edited them with more info for you. Always work on pedal unplugged from mains voltage.
I haven’t included how to install new power in any great detail as if you don’t know how that works then you shouldn’t be doing this modification.

(Copy and paste images in new tab for larger version)

Power:
(Remove transformer and all associated wiring)

True Bypass (no LED):

No idea, man. Kit Rae has possibly ignored the Deluxe for the same reason we don’t know… there’s hardly any info about them.

I have only one deluxe among 12 big muffs; the last one – 3054C series-parallel. I’d like to know some info too. I did see your post on FSB as well.

Mine has the 3080 compressor and sounds like crap. The muff sounds brilliant. I’ve removed the AC power supply and added a regular DC jack, true bypassed it, reflowed solder on all pots as two were intermittent, and I still need to recap all electros. Hopefully the compressor comes to life one it gets some fresh electros. Electros can dry out and should be replaced every couple of decades at least.

I don’t know what year the 3054C was made and I haven’t got around to checking the pots on mine yet for a rough estimate (will do when I recap it) but I think it’s likely around 1979 – 1980.

It’s hard to know for sure and in reality pot dates aren’t the best method for dating a pedal; however, it’s all we have.

• This reply was modified 1 year, 2 months ago by Ned Flanders.
• This reply was modified 1 year, 2 months ago by Ned Flanders.

If it was 80s I’d think it should say Mini Chorus, not full chorus….I don’t recall what year that changed

Other than that, it does look legit

Indeed, it does look like a copy/fake. And one intended to fool the buyer.

Knobs are wrong
Black on the back of the unit appears to be paint when originals are vinyl over metal.
Solder joints don’t look EH style. They look amateur.
PCB looks wrong
Screw holes are wrong.

Etc etc.

Pedals are the same regardless of the country and “Brazilian Only“ Big Muffs don’t exist. The only country specific feature is power supplies that plug into the wall, and they state it outright. Attempting to stop this sort of thing in South America (And Asia) would be an effort in futility. Close down one seller and he opens up again under a different address….you’d never find those responsible anyways, not in the 3rd world. The 3rd world has its own rules.

NOTE: I’m posting this late reply for the good of everyone so fakes can be identified.

For identifying authentic Big Muffs check out the following:
http://www.bigmuffpage.com/

This might sound stupid, but have you double checked the vol knobs etc, and also that you’re plugged into correctly? I can’t remember how many times I’ve had a “D’oh” moment because of something simple like this.

If you rule out user error email EHX.