BTW: does anyone else find their delays clipping in an amp’s effect loop? My amp causes this only when the clean channel gain is dimed and the (passive) EQ is all the way up. I could lower the levels to avoid overdriving pedals in the loop, but that would affect the clean tone and would certainly mess up the way gain pedals react with the amp. This seems unavoidable, but then I see everyone in the world with a DD-3 in the loop so I think I must be an idiot.
Crap.. you’ve just helped me realise what happens when I turn up my Laney VC100’s volume with my DD-20 in the loop!
This seriously sucks, because I like to turn the pre-amp up and than the master down a bit (it opens up the sound because the last of 3 tubes in the gain channel is not strangled ..). Then I heard the sound started farting around, even on the clean channel!
I do need the versatility of the DD-20 and have a deep hatred for the preset-switching of TC-Electronics .. So I’m basically screwed.
Can anyone tell me how the SMMH handles high levels?
BTW. having only effected signal is usefull if you use a parallel loop like me. The blending is done on the amp, so you don’t waste the unaffected tone on the cables.
Yea I must say I am very moved by the tube pedals.
I have had many effect devices with a 12ax7 in them,but theses are the first pedals I have had where I can HEAR and FEEL the tubes!
It has to be the fact the tube plate voltages are run so high.
Inside the pedals is a cool little toriod transformer the helps bring the 12 volts DC in up to the 200 or 300 volts the tube was designed to see.
Very Hip designs.
Bill Ruppert
Hey man, yes it’s the voltage!
By the way, if you want a more flat frequency responce you could try some different tubes, the mid kick is in the 12AX7EH’s
Have you tried it in an amp situation?
I just though of the possibility to run one side before and one side after the amp (in the loop). Thus creating a simultanious gain and volume boost!
The Boss LS-2 is inexpensive and uses a “soft” switch as well as a bypass buffer (which may or may not be ideal, but IME they’re reasonably transparent). You can also check out loop pedals by WOBO or Lehle. Both feature relay-based switching, but they’re not cheap.
This.
I was about to suggest an LS-2.
Don’t worry about the buffer, it actually makes your guitar sound better because it gives the signal enough buffing to get through the cable to the amp Only TB would mean that the capacitance of the cable makes your sound duller.
People need to step of off the TB myth, and EHX needs to release a Buffer pedal to complete everybody’s pedalboard!
Well, I’m totally biased towards single coils, but I believe it is pretty much common sense that many pedals (mainly dirt) like them better. Most Fenders have single coils, most Gibsons have humbuckers, you do the math.
That said, proud Tele and Strat slinger, 5F6A pusher and EHX stomper!
:thumb:
I do need an SG and maybe a LP, though, but I’ll make them P-90’d.
I have a custombuilt ’60s relic strat in fiesta red! , I love it with individual pedals
But when you start mixing, for instance envelope filter + dirt .. it gets very messy very fast with singles.
With the hummies (Bare Knuckle Pickups) on my Ibanez S I can play with that combo and make it sound like.. something, but with singles it’s just *noise* .. So in that respect there are some advantages to humbuckers. But with every individual pedal, I’d choose the strat anytime.
I’m striving to put a BKP Sinner single coil in my strat in a few months, 23k ohm single!!! Muhahaha! It’ll go next to the original bridge pickup though, I’m not sacrificing my funk!
Only: you should be able to select the amount of drop, no fannying around with sliders or anything please!
A knob with 4 detents would allow you to use the travel between and have the precise steps down.
I’d like to add the thing I love about the HOG’s pitch shift is that it tracks chords!! Isn’t that the coolest?!? :thumb: You can’t do that well with a digitech whammy. I own the HOG and I always wish I had control over those pitch shift intervals.
I still think the pedal needs midi just for unlimited storing of presets with midi gear. Also ith onboard presets as well for those that don’t use midi, just the pedal.
Anyway, let’s make this happen!
You’re very welcome!
I myself have been lusting after a Whammy for a long time, but it’s just such a faulty pedal for way too much money. It doesn’t even track single notes some times haha!
But!
A nice feature that might be incorperated into the Whambender (I just realised that’s a horrible name) could be: a Tracking knob! Keep it on full for perfect HOG-like tracking, or turn it down for that whammy-warble’n-noise! It would win over all the Morello fans as well and make the pedal much more versatile without destroying the main idea.
1. great idea for the whammy opponent
2. bad idea about the extra effects (no offence)
The world needs a pedal that actually does the whammy’s job well, unlike the original.
But the problem is that every single pedal that has gotten close has been screwed up with too much other crap being thrown in (Boss PS-5, HOG (great great pedal.. not a whammy alternative)).
You need to keep it pure and it will sell in the millions!!
I don’t think they actually have to do much research .. just take the code from the HOG and work from there.
The “Whambender with Hazarai” perhaps?
EDIT: midi is a nice touch, but a bit useless maybe. The people who really use midi-rigs will get an Eventide. To eliminate the need for midi in the first place, and kick the Digitech completely out of the water the presets on this pedal must be footswitchable!!
I need leds, to keep track of what’s going on and .. which pedal is on.
Only problem is I’m red/green colourblind, so the standard red leds are useless to me in most conditions. I’ve modded some of my pedals with blue leds or higher brightness so that I can see clearly which is which.
Also I just love lights, as long as there are not too many blinking ones .. I don’t want my board to look like a festival attraction.
I am also wondering this — when my tube zipper is plugged in there is a bright glow coming from inside the chassis where the tubes are. I have an english muff’n and it does not have any sort of light coming from inside, just the filaments in the top of the tubes. is this bright glow normal and just because there are three status lights? another thing is the drive knob is exceptionally tight — anyone else experience this too?
The glow is just an LED for effect. I have a Hot Tubes that has it a my Muff’n doesn’t. As for the tight knobs, my Hot Tubes drive knob is god awful tight as well.
Just an idea, but maybe there’s a different type of pot that EH uses just for the drive pots.. Like a double pot or something. That would explain the similarity in the pedals.
Personally I like a tight pot (ahem..) because I know I won’t knok my settings around. And it allows super-minor-tweaks.
I’ve messed around with my order.. only to find out that the original was the best.
Guitar to amp: Guitar > wah > filters > OD > boost > lowered voltage muff fuzz > Big Muffs Pi’s > input
Parallel Effects loop: delay > chorus
Series Effects loop: EQ > boost
I like my delays to have the chorus sweep on them, not to have the sweep get weirded up by the delays.
I’ve played around with my dirt order a lot the last days, but I never really use more than one at a time so it doesn’t really matter.
I prefer wah and filtering before dirt..
Soon I might get a Wiggler, I’m wondering where I’m going to put it. Before the amp will give me a bit of a creamyer sound .. but after will probably let the effect shine more beautifully. Aw well, I’ll know in 2 weeks! Any wiggler owners here like to comment?
screwdriver works for me by gently pressing it up from all sides and then pulling it off by hand
Well yeah, still you’re pushing down on the pedal with the screwdriver (the sheet metal cases could be dented with that).
As long as you be gentle it’s okay I guess, but there are so many people who just jam a screwdriver under there and rip the knob off. *shudder*
My way sounds very extreme, but actually I just step on the pedal with my shoe on and take the knobs off haha. (I’ve been modding around with my BMP, requiring me to take off the knobs a few times).
Holy crap, I have some catching up to do!
(but I’m only 19 years old so .. financially I’m screwed )
My “collection”:
EH Big Muff Pi USA
EH Big Muff Pi Russian (black older one with thick steel chassis, like the green .. but it’s black.. )
EH Doctor Q USA (folded metal chassis)
Self built Muff Fuzz with voltage control
Coming up: either a Riddle Q-Balls or a Wiggler
(depending on the release date of the Riddle coinciding with my girlfriend’s trip to the USA).
My bassist’s collection:
EH Q-tron (folded metal)
.. well he’s a bassplayer so that’s a pretty big one I’m half-way convincing him to get a Bass Big Muff! (he’s stubborn.. very)
And I’ve got a load of pre-EH-gas pedals .. but those don’t count in this thread.
In the cases of the Worm and Muffs, the XO pedals are improvements over the big counterparts.
Wait….this
is an improvement over this
..*vintage muffs*
You go buy a vintage XO then! OF course he means the newest/current BMP vs. XO BMP, don’t be pedantic.
There is a sound difference between the two, but it not sound quality or anything, I haver a feeling the “big” BMP is slightly dirtyer and had a touch more gain.. But I’ve only had a short time to compare them so I might be wrong.
In the gearmandude shootout he seems to have the same result though…