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  • in reply to: English Muff’n tone controls #109744
    julian
    Moderator

    I did a quick search on Mouser:

    http://mouser.com/ProductDetail/Bourns/PDB182-GTRB2-254MN/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtxdMMi52izynW1rLzzbol%2b4Yr2k4P1%2b9Y=

    You’d have to probably mount it elswhere on the chassis to get it to switch.

    Fiddling with Duncan’s calculator, that center frequency seems to be determined by the treble and bass caps. Experimentation is key.

    in reply to: English Muff’n tone controls #109709
    julian
    Moderator

    But anyways, there’s tons of different combinations of pots and caps you can use, and they all interact a bit if you futz with it in Duncan’s calculator.

    in reply to: English Muff’n tone controls #109708
    julian
    Moderator

    hmmm I forgot to put the graph up!

    Haha!

    Here it is:

    muffnmarshall.png

    in reply to: English Muff’n tone controls #109730
    julian
    Moderator

    Here’s a graph:

    cool colors are the Marshall tone stack, hot colors are the Muff’n tone stack.

    The curves with less treble have every potentiometer set half-way. The curves with more treble have every potentiometer set half-way except for treble, which is cranked.

    I can see why they designed it like this. They improved the bass response, which is generally something want more of nowadays, and they cut the mids more, perhaps to make it a bit more Muffy.

    I think to tame the treble the best thing would be to change the pot to reverse-log 250k, and change the mid pot to 25k linear. This will also as a byproduct make it less scooped.

    What I’d also do (and this is just me) is add a “bright” switch to add a 250n or so cap in parallel to the 220n cap to bring it to the typical Marshall spec and had some high-mids as well.

    I’d tone down the EH .1u to the Marshall 22n and have a switch to add a 78n or so cap in parallel as a “bass boost” switch.

    Increasing the mids cap increases the mid-scoop, but also lowers the center frequency of the mid scoop and lowers bass. So you could find a cap value you like as far as mids go, and then add a mid scoop switch that would wire another cap in parallel too.

    If you wanted to, you could also add a tone-bypass switch.

    in reply to: English Muff’n tone controls #109729
    julian
    Moderator

    I’m doing some graphing with Duncan’s tone stack calculator right now, and I tried a couple things:

    at about 1/4 of a turn on a linear treble pot, the upper end of the treble is at about -10db. (let me mention that the tonestack is subtractive, it doesn’t boost frequenciess, it just subtracts them. All the way to the left it subtracts the most)

    If I switch that to a logarithmic, it doesn’t hit -10 dbs until 1/2 of a turn. reverse logarithmic does even better, with it not hitting -10 dbs until 3/4s of a turn.

    Increasing the 220n capacitor to 470k actually adds treble (and high mids.) I think one substancial difference with the Marshall tone stack is that it doesn’t scoop the mids as much. So while it adds more treble, it adds more mids, thus it sounds more balanced.

    in reply to: English Muff’n tone controls #109705
    julian
    Moderator

    You know, I’m not sure. . . I’m still learning about this stuff myself.

    One thing you have to consider is that people all have different guitars, different amps, and different cabs.

    Your setup may be relatively bright and you might not need so much of the treble. Someone else might have a very dark amp/cab/guitar combo and need more.

    Or sometimes people like to run effects chains in parallel and blend. Sometimes a lot of treble is beneficial. You can get some really great dirt tones with heavy treble in one parallel chain, and a really thick bassy distortion in the other.

    in reply to: English Muff’n tone controls #109703
    julian
    Moderator

    one other thing you might want to do is experiment with different 12ax7/7025 variants.

    in reply to: English Muff’n tone controls #109701
    julian
    Moderator

    Hey, I’m back.

    Check this out:

    http://www.duncanamps.com/tsc/

    This program is a tonestack calculator. It takes popular tone stacks and calculates the EQ curve for them.

    The English Muff’n indeed uses a Marshall Tone Stack, but the values are tweaked.

    Here’s the Marshall Tone Stack:
    marshalltones.jpg
    (note, treble pot is linear, bass pot is audio (reverse logarithmic), and mid pot is linear.

    Now here are the values for the English Muff’n (according to the schematics I found):
    R1: 30.1 k
    R2: 250k linear
    R3: 500k log
    R4: 10k log
    R5: omitted
    C1: 220p
    C2: .1 u
    c3: 22n (unchanged)

    Of course, remember that the intensity of the treble will also relate to your mids and bass settings.

    Replacing that 220pf cap with a 470 pf cap might just do it.

    julian
    Moderator

    This forum isn’t super useful as far as modifications goes. More for troubleshooting really, because modding is such a nice thing. I replied to your topic and I’ll try to give you insight. Freestompboxes is great for finding schematics (even if there’s a bit of gray morality to it. Some people are very against the site.) but as far as tech stuff goes, nothing beats DIYstompboxes.com. They know their stuff very well over there.

    in reply to: English Muff’n tone controls #109698
    julian
    Moderator

    Well if only part of the range of the pot is useful to you, then you could replace the pot with a different value.

    Looking at a schem, I see it’s a 250k linear. I think you want to change potentiometer type to either logarithmic or reverse logarithmic. Changing the value might help as well.

    I just googled the schematic and took a peak at it.

    You could also mod the tone stack as a whole to be an exact copy of the Marshall tone stack (it’s very similar, but slightly different, if the schematics I’m looking at are correct.) I have to go right now, but I can describe the differences in a little bit.

    julian
    Moderator

    oh :(

    I was planning on building a 4×10 cab for my bandmaster at some point, and I’m pretty sure my bandmaster is 4 ohms, just like my Bassman and my Kent.

    julian
    Moderator

    I think it’s just like running two separate drive pedals together, making them work just like normal volume controls.

    The only things I’ve noticed different with the 44 magnum: Only 8 or 16 ohm, not 4 ohms (makes me sad, since both my cabs are 4 ohms!) The other thing is that it has twice the wattage.

    julian
    Moderator
    Quote:
    Yeah, why all that reverb, is it just to get attention for the reverb.. Or would the Germanium Muff sound thin if not?^^

    Well, I want to hear it through a more beefy sounding guitar with the beefiest of settings on a normal amp.

    I hope John Pisani does some demos soon.

    julian
    Moderator

    found another video:

    julian
    Moderator

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZYHiXd926_0

    Premier Guitar video.

    One thing I didn’t think of with the freeze is that being a HOG owner, I could do freeze and have both the dry and wet be octaved. (You can’t do that with the HOG, whatever you play over top is always dry.)

    So that’s pretty cool.

    44 Magnum sounds pretty good.

    I want to hear someone play some sludgy riffs with the Germanium 4 Big Muff. None of this blues stuff!

Viewing 15 posts - 361 through 375 (of 2,229 total)