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julianModerator
If you wire two signals together and put them to an output, it generally doesn’t work, but adding a small amount of resistance to each signal is a quick way to get it to.
100kA means 100k ohms Audio taper. Volume works on a logarithmic scale instead of a linear scale, so audio pots are designed to give you a smooth taper in volume with audio signals.
November 18, 2010 at 4:07 pm in reply to: Can you use one exp. pedal for 2 effects simultaneously? #112647julianModeratorOnly if the pedals both work on control voltage.
Some expression pedal jacks are working on controlled resistance, which would mess with stuff.
November 18, 2010 at 12:49 pm in reply to: Can you use one exp. pedal for 2 effects simultaneously? #112643julianModeratorSorry to say this Cryabetes, but electricity doesn’t work that way. If you connect two voltage sources in parallel, the voltage doesn’t sum, the current does. Similarly, if you split it off into two paths, the voltage isn’t divided, the current is. Otherwise power strips and daisy chains would be sort of worthless.
I can’t tell you that it will work for sure octa805, but I can tell you that it might work if the conditions are right.
The expression jacks would have to be both 0-5V control voltage, which is the standard for synthesizers. All moog pedals and a lot of EHX pedals use this standard.
What it means is that on a TRS (tip-ring-sleeve stereo 1/4″ plug) you have ground, +5v, and 0 to 5v. Ground should be on the sleeve, +5v on the ring, and 0 to 5v on the tip. That’s so if you connect a mono Tip-sleeve plug in from a 0 to 5v output, the +5V supply connects to ground when it is plugged (since the sleeve is bigger and makes a connection with the ring lug on the inside of the jack)
Inside the expression pedal, if you imagine the potentiometer from a top down view with the lugs pointing to your stomach they go 1, 2, 3. Ground is connected to 1, 0-5v is connected to 2, +5v is connected to 3.
Anyways, all the pedals want is a 0-5v voltage coming back at them, it doesn’t matter how they get it. So I don’t really see a problem if you connect everything right. At first I’d ground out one of the +5v supplies, just in case connecting two of them together futz with something in some other way. Even though the 5v wouldn’t double, I’d wonder if other factors could have a negative effect.
julianModeratorI thought this worked pretty well:
julianModeratorAt the very least, you’d want 100kA volume fader after every effect followed by a 4k7 mixing resistor.
julianModeratorWell you’d want an active blender at the end.
Also, you can’t really do analog detune.
Best you can do is chorus.
julianModeratorGet some parts and breadboards!
julianModeratorJesse, it really sounds like you’re biting off way more than you can chew. That’s a really complicated project.
julianModeratorKeep fiddling with the settings, I haven’t tried out the G4BM, but it’s pretty hugely tweakable. Or it might just not pair well with your amp. I find that pedals fair differently with different amps.
julianModeratorProbably just a one time incident.
It happens to a lot of distortion pedals, as well as amps, but very rarely.
julianModeratorPart of the reason isn’t always the switches themselves, sometimes it can be the LEDs drawing a lot of current when they come that makes it pop.
Here are some solutions:
1. Pulldown resistors. Solder a 1 megohm resistor from input to ground and from output to ground. This can in some cases pull down the pop and make the pedal more silent.
2. Millenium Bypass. It slowly powers the LED up so that the LED doesn’t make noise. It looks cool too! http://www.geofex.com/article_folders/millenium/millen.htm I believe you can get circuit boards for the millenium bypass at Geofex. Or you could just get a 1″ protoboard from Sparkfun. It’s a simple circuit so point to point on a protoboard shouldn’t be too hard.
3. “clickless true bypass” http://www.clicklesstruebypass.com/ It uses an integrated circuit controlled by a momentary footswitch.
The other solution would be just to come up with a work around in recording. If you’ve got a mixing board (which even if you’re recording into a computer I think you should) put the pedal in the FX loop and have someone turn it on by fading it in when you want it.
julianModeratorWhat’s really weird is I ordered that size case by accident. I thought I was ordering an SMMH sized case, but then it came, and it was a monstrosity.
A Hammond 1590 DD might just be able to fit everything that was on the HOG.
Full midi control would be a dream. The things I could do with arduino for it!
julianModeratorWell that at least looks like there is room for a middle switch.
julianModeratorQuote:vibrato is just a fast chorus. so I guess EHX just came out with a nano “vibrato” pedal, via the Neo Clone.Vibrato isn’t chorus, because chorus has clean signal. Vibrato = chorus minus the clean signal at any speed
julianModeratorI don’t see how the HOG could be downsized to fit in that small of an enclosure. They’d have to remove so many features.
I wish that the original HOG could have had a USB jack so they could have done firmware updates for it, including full midi control of the pedal like with the 2880.
Maybe they should leave the HOG alone and make an EH polysynth pedal and focus it more upon emulating a polyphonic synthesizer.
The other thing they could do with the HOG2 is pack more features into it that could be accessed via a special pedal you can connect to it, or with midi, or with going into a computer program that you can hook up the HOG2 to and edit patches manually.
Some features I’d like to see: multiple expression modes at once: so you can freeze notes and then bend or filter sweep them, or you could bend a 5th up to a 4th down and play in a baritone range but then use freeze.
Ability to change the tuning of the sliders. Possibly for playing along with justly tuned instruments, for your more Eastern style music.
A sympathetic mode: uses the voices to voice a comb filter for sitar type reverb sounds.
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