the foot pedal’s position WILL save, but if the pedal is attached it will automatically revert to the pedal’s current position. so let’s say that you put the expression pedal toe-up and save the preset, if you disconnect the expression pedal and load the preset it will act as though the pedal was connected and in the toe-up position. however, if the expression pedal is connected and toe-down, when you load the preset it will react to the pedal’s current position.

the largest overlap between the MS and the HOG is obviously in the original/+1/-1 sliders and the ability to stack voices, although the HOG can’t really nail the MS groove and the MS is too much it’s own beast to encroach on the HOG’s territory. the MS is all analog, so the octaves not only sound different but react differently and require a different playing style altogether. with the HOG, if you want to, you can essentially just stack some voices and play the same riffs you used to play before you got the thing. there’s no real ‘style limitation’ because the tracking is super fast, pretty clean, and totally polyphonic. you can get some neat synth sounds with the HOG, but comparing it to the MS is comparing lions and tigers: they do similar things, but there’s no way anyone who is at all familiar with either would confuse one for the other.

i’m taking a break from writing a paper so i sincerely hope this all makes sense, ive been planning sentences basically since i woke up and im starting to snap a little, in the linguistic sense.

unless i am misunderstanding what you’re after, the tube eq is the closest i can think of. although have you considered just… buying a wah pedal? it is literally a bandpass filter with a built-in expression pedal.

there are several wahs with variable q, or else you can just buy a crybaby and mod it for about $1 and 5 minutes of your time.

the 16sdd foot controller will work with the hog no problem, just hook it up the same way and start saving presets! and supposedly, you can run an a/b switch to both the hog and the 16sdd and switch between which one the foot controller controls. i still havent tried this myself so im not sure how the pedals handle the switch, but it seems very cool.

all that the mod does is make it so that when you set the loop length to >32, the 1 bar count-in is bypassed and it starts recording right away. it seems like a small improvement, but it helps alot.

fwiw, mine had already had the mod done when i got it – im pretty sure EHX made the mod standard sometime before they discontinued the pedal, but dont quote me on that because i got mine used.

hope it helps!

i had a somewhat similar issue with my guitar microsynth, there was a constant distorted bleedthrough. turns out that there was a cold solder in one of the slider connections and the input wires were shorting out; i took a chance and worked on it myself but i wish i’d have sent it in for warranty because the bleedthrough still returns from time to time and i have to give it some more attention to get it running again. the other option that i would look into is just returning it and getting the new xo version: smaller, true bypass, LED status (i had to mod mine for LED but i left the bypass buffered) and ehx’s quality control has gone through the roof in the last few years (mine was an older reissue, as i’m assuming yours is if they had to search for the adaptor and ship it from out of state)

lastly: im not sure this is an issue with the bms, but are you using active or super hot pickups? with my input gain set too high, there is a tendency to trigger over and over – thus preventing any real sound passing through. if the pickups are hot enough to overload the input even at the lowest gain settings, then you would obviously get a constantly distorted sound. ive heard passive pickups so hot that they make it impossible to get a clean sound out of most amps, and i cant imagine the micro synth being tuned to accomodate such extreme input. i dont know your setup at all, that’s just a thought.

anyway, i hope some of that helps!

pog 2, big muff w/ tone wicker, and i think thats it.

the cathedral doesnt count because it isnt out yet.

i used to want a zvex mastotron, but then i got a super hot woolly mammoth (skeleton graphics, 1 of 1), and i used to want the ’76 custom shop dynacomp from mxr but $225 = nuts to that.

excepting those two purchases, i’ve been feeling the need to fine tune the collection – sell off or trade in all the stuff i don’t get much use out of.

EDIT: that hollow earth box looks absolutely incredible, i’m so super stoked on these tiny pedalmakers who only get a few boxes out a year. the whole aesthetic oozes buckets of charm that not even ehx or zvex’s most devilish moments can match (although mike’s appearances in video demos and zvex’s one-off special edition paintjobs do come pretty close).

the small clone is quieter and warmer but it lacks some of the tonal complexity present in the clone theory. it’s been mentioned above that the clone theory is brighter, and it also tends to flange more than the small clone so it’s very psychedelic and new-wavey. the rate knob on the theory is dialed in a little better and it has a much larger usable range; it seems to me that the only decent settings on the small clone fall between 9 o’clock and noon. despite this, the small clone can cover 95% of the ‘usable’ chorus sounds you hear on records.

the depth on the small clone is dialed in perfectly and you’ll likely find yourself looking for similar depth settings on every pedal you play; the depth and rate knobs on the theory are extremely interactive (the depth gets deeper as rate increases) so mode 1 at a slow rate actually covers the shallow iciness of the clone’s first setting, and the faster rates give you the wobbly goodness of the small clone’s ‘deep chorus’ setting. mode 2 gives you the option of a deeper chorus at a slower rate or a shallow chorus at a faster rate. vibrato can be difficult to dial in because it gets very very wobbly, but it sounds cool once you get it right. i find that the white noise on the clone theory is actually my favorite part of the chorusing for the depth it adds, but if you’re averged to hiss and moan then you will likely be better served by the small clone.

basically, i’m in the clone theory camp but the small clone is fantastic as well. as basically every other poster stated: if you’re looking for something simple, warm and clean, go with the small clone. if you’re after something a little more complex, both tonally and control-wise, the theory is likely your best bet.

i cant speak for certain, but im 99% sure that all three are perfectly identical aside from the paint jobs. i use the HOG controller and there is absolutely no issue, i put some tape on the middle bit and labelled each switch so i wouldnt forget which does what. it’s laid out like so on the HOG controller:

OCTAVE FEEDBACK REVERSE

RECORD PLAY SWEEP

which is 100% identical to the 16sDD controller. this is obviously different from the 2880’s labelling, but i would guess that the 16sDD would keep the above layout and you would have to relabel everything no matter what controller you went with.

based on that, i would say that you can pretty much flip a coin to make your decision (and then use the coin to buy some duct tape and a marker).

i would like to see them put together limited releases of the weirdest stuff from the 70’s and 80’s ( http://electroharmonix.ronsound.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=17&Itemid=25 – basically just read the names and you’ll see why i want them back) plus the ‘plug in’ style muff fuzz, screaming bird, mole and lpb-1. seriously just one production run, when they’re gone they’re gone. i think that would be neat.

then maybe in 10 years time, a super limited run of the bigbox pedals that have all been XO’ed as of late would make a cool reissue. finally, im with watsonwood regarding the crying tone series.

PS: this is not a stupid thread, this is an awesome thread. let’s keep it going.

EDIT: honestly the one i would most like to see is EH-6725, the super heavy coiled cable. there are not nearly enough coiled cables out there and i would like to see more around, if for no other reason than to stop yorkville from charging $40 for an average quality cable just because it’s considered a ‘specialty item.’

please?