Forum Replies Created
-
AuthorPosts
-
janusEffectModerator
Another idea: You could get a bypass switcher (a.k.a., bypass loop pedal) which uses relays or an active buffer.
Don’t confuse these with true bypass loop pedals – those will have the same potential problems you’re experiencing now. Unfortunately, relay-based and buffered bypass loop pedals cost a lot more than their true bypass counterparts. Lehle is a popular option for this, and I know there are others out there, too.
Also, the switch noise you’re experiencing doesn’t always happen – it’s uncommon, and even when it does occur, it normally isn’t frequent and happens to be random. There really isn’t much you can do about it outside of a bypass loop pedal.
janusEffectModeratorThe clicking you hear is a natural, random, and unfortunate byproduct of true bypass switching. Line 6 pedals don’t use true bypass systems – they all have active, buffered bypass systems AFAIK. While such switching gives you the benefit of no switching noise and can prevent minor signal loss, they alter the impedance of your signal – changing the tone of everything that goes through it and after it. It’s a very subtle and hard to notice change in most instances, but sometimes it can be a problem (for example, most fuzz pedals sound quite different when the signal’s impedance changes).
EHX chose to go with true bypass switching on most of their pedals because it’s efficient, simple, and does not alter the signal. I doubt they’d want to go the other route, since some tone “purists” would be thoroughly annoyed by the tonal impact of other types of bypass systems.
Now, as for your problem… “popping” and other switch noise can sometimes be reduced or eliminated by stepping on the switch several times in a row to discharge the capacitors. Capacitors store energy long after the pedal is turned off, and if enough energy is built up, it can result in noise when stepping on the switch. See if that idea helps get rid of it – at least for the recording session.
janusEffectModeratorThe newer XO and Nano series pedals have a different paint job altogether. Durability is a minor issue now… the new labels can take abuse.
I do agree that the classic style pedal paint jobs were fairly scratch-sensitive… and I’m sure it’s one of the many reasons why they’re being gradually phased out.
July 14, 2010 at 3:16 am in reply to: What are the exact specifications for a MEMORY TOY power supply #110194janusEffectModeratorThe mA rating isn’t really the issue in this case, since the Memory Toy can run on batteries and doesn’t use much current. 100mA or more should provide more than enough current for the Memory Boy’s needs.
The type of adapter used is no different than what Boss pedals and most other pedals use. Regulated 9VDC, 2.1mm barrel (if it fits, you’re probably using the right one), center negative. Most EHX XO and Nano series pedals use that type of adapter, too.
So… if the adapters you tried work on other pedals with the same basic requirements, then something’s wrong with the jack on your Memory Toy. Either that, or the first adapter you used was the wrong type and you damaged the pedal.
That 500mA adapter you mentioned sends up a red flag for me, though, because that’s not an amount you normally see on these adapters, and I’m wondering if there’s something about it that would make it unusable for most pedals. Tell me more about the adapters you used, but more importantly, what you normally use those adapters for.
janusEffectModeratorActually, it looks like the switch and jacks are in the same place. It’s the graphic that’s been tweaked. The LED has indeed been repositioned, but I think the lack of uniformity is ultimately a moot point.
The Neo Clone is more in line with other similar pedals as far as the LED is concerned. It’s the Nano Small Stone that’s “off”, so to speak.
janusEffectModeratorIf all of your pedals are 9V, why are you even looking at the Juicy Lucy? T-Rex makes a same-size power supply called the Fuel Tank Jr. which has only 9V outputs. You should get that instead.
Don’t risk using 12V on your pedals. Although some 9V pedals can run on 12V, most can’t. Most will be fried. It’s all a matter of components and design… some designers (more often, the boutique pedal makers) use components which can take higher voltages, but you’d need to ask them to be sure.
For example, the Fulltone Bassdrive can run on anything from 9VDC to 18VDC, and has more headroom towards 18VDC. However, it is designed and advertised this way. Don’t ever assume other pedals can take it, because they usually can’t.
January 10, 2010 at 7:05 pm in reply to: a looper pedal that allows you to control wet/dry blend with an expression pedal #106288janusEffectModeratorThere are two I know of.
The Barge Concepts VFB-X is a blend loop/feedback loop pedal which offers expression-pedal-based control in addition to static knob settings. The fun part is, you can control either the blend loop or the feedback loop by an expression pedal.
There’s also the Morley FX Blender, which is a blend loop pedal enclosed in a Morley Wah housing. Basically, the expression pedal is a permanent part of the pedal.
Honestly, these are both a challenge to work with properly in practice, because of changes in gain as you sweep from fully dry to fully wet. You will experience a dip in volume when moving towards 50/50, and an increase in volume when moving away from that point. While I have seen blend knobs on some effect pedals which have been carefully adjusted at various points to maintain a consistent level of volume across the board (without additional knobs), I have yet to see this in a blend loop pedal, much less, one with expression-pedal-based control.
janusEffectModerator1) To my knowledge, they’re discontinued.
2) It’s a common misconceptions that SMDs are digital. Yes, some are, but most are not. They’re simply tiny versions of their analog counterparts. In the case of the Nano Small Stone, it’s still an all-analog circuit – it simply uses SMDs to save space.
3) I don’t know, actually. Open it up and compare.
4) I disagree… I thought the Nano Small Stone was louder overall. My experience with the original is that it had a “volume drop” because of the way it sweeped. At least to my ears, the Nano has a gain boost to compensate for that “drop.” Other than that, they sounded the same to me when I had both. I’m sure others might disagree.janusEffectModeratorThey are virtually the same thing. They’re both digital switch-mode power supplies. The Godlyke is a bit more expensive, but the new version offers an additional 300mA over the 1 Spot, so the price difference is decently justified this time around.
But then again, how many of us actually NEED nearly 2 Amps of current to spare? Most distortion pedals don’t even use 1% of that…
Besides, all of their accessories are interchangeable, so it doesn’t matter which you really go with.
As far as problems, they have all of the benefits and drawbacks you’d expect from digital switch-mode supplies. There is nothing significant I know of or have seen which makes the Godlyke better than the One Spot and vice-versa. But compare them to transformer-based supplies and supplies with isolated outputs, and now we have a real comparison point…
But as far as the typical powering situation goes, either supply you’re considering works great. It’s only for the unusual powering scenarios that you’d need to look beyond them…
August 1, 2009 at 5:24 am in reply to: New Electro Harmonix Memory Boy Analog Delay Pedal Video #100187janusEffectModeratorMUST.
HAVE.
NOW.
I can’t wait to try it out on bass!
July 23, 2009 at 7:04 pm in reply to: EHX’s Modulation line-is the time right for an overhaul? #99885janusEffectModeratorAre you talking about an overhaul in the sense of rehousing/reissuing and discontinuing?
+1 on the DEM. I don’t think it’s too complex for XO – after all, they did get the Micro Synth in an XO chassis, and the original had two dense circuitboards in it!
I don’t know if there’s a need to shrink the Flanger Hoax.
I’d love to see a true Nano or XO version of the Small Clone (the current Nano Clone doesn’t count…)
The Small Stone has already been Nano’d, and it’s here to stay.
I highly disagree about the Clone Theory. I love that pedal, and even though there are a lot of chorus pedals out there, NOTHING sounds like the Clone Theory. I don’t think it’s going anywhere.
The SEM definitely isn’t going anywhere.
The Polychorus is long overdue for an XO transition.
The Polyphase definitely is here to stay. Same with the Worm.
In short, the only changes that should be made, IMO, are really just rehousings in the XO or Nano format. That way, we have more room on our boards for more EHX pedals.
janusEffectModeratorQuote:I personally build most of my effects and just buy a few and by building them I know that there is a difference between using a cheap electrolyte and a philips one, this just to make an example. When I build my effects I choose carefully the right components, if it’s a vintage one I use ceramic cond instead of film ones and carbon composition resistors instead of metal ones, etc..etc.. Now if I’m using a pedal built which SMD (which is super cheap) I can hear it, there is a clear difference, sounds sharp and not very expressive. In fact I think the carbon copy delay is a bad pedal. I know SMD makes it possible to put effects in smaller boxes but I prefer to have less effects and more quality if the sound is so unusable.That has less to do with SMD as a whole, and more to do with the design and manufacturer. A cheaply made and poorly designed pedal is a cheaply made and poorly designed pedal, regardless of whether or not the components are SMD. It just so happens that it’s cheaper to use SMD nowadays for these terrible designs. They are not the cause of said poor quality, however. SMD is the standard for digital devices for a reason.
Being an effects junkie and a bass player, I’ve used a lot of pedals over the past few years. Some of the digital ones I’ve used sound far better than comparable analog ones. I don’t understand the origin of your “unusable sound” belief, nor have I heard this “sharpness” and “lack of expression” you describe. I’ve never heard something that appalling which used SMD (although I’m sure some plenty of terrible SMD-based pedals exist). I can’t say the same about traditional components, but again, it’s all about design and sonic preferences.
The types of parts used and their properties can have some impact on the sound of an effect, but this in no way suggests that SMD is perpetually inferior. If you really do believe that, you may as well throw out most of your electronic equipment, since SMDs are everywhere.
janusEffectModeratorIf you’re powering your DS-1 and Small Clone with it, that’ll be just fine. I think you should be able to run all three pedals off of it using a daisy chain, but the Micro POG demands quite a bit of current, so you’re going to have very little left to work with for more pedals besides those.
janusEffectModeratorThe Boss LS-2 is inexpensive and uses a “soft” switch as well as a bypass buffer (which may or may not be ideal, but IME they’re reasonably transparent). You can also check out loop pedals by WOBO or Lehle. Both feature relay-based switching, but they’re not cheap.
janusEffectModeratorYou can use an Australian equivalent. Remember that the source voltage isn’t important as long as you have the proper adapter to bring it down to 9VDC.
The USA Micro POG adapter, IIRC, is:
120VAC => 9VDC, Regulated
200mA (but nothing wrong with having more to spare)
2.1mm Center-Negative Barrel PlugThe only difference between that and the Australian equivalent is the source voltage (you’re 230VAC, right?).
It’s MUCH easier to just use an Aussie adapter which matches the above specs (excluding source voltage, of course).
If you’re using a universal power supply of some sort for multiple pedals, it will normally work just fine with the Micro POG as long as you have enough current available. The Micro POG does need a significant amount of current because it’s digital.
-
AuthorPosts