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Viewing 15 posts - 61 through 75 (of 159 total)
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  • gvelasco
    Member

    Holy Grail doesn’t say. It simply says:

    “Plug the DC adaptor into the US96DC-200BI jack and then plug the DC adaptor into a wall outlet.”

    That’s their standard US 9.6V 200mA negative tip power supply. But I read of people either here (?) or in other forums plugging their Holy Grail into the wrong power supply and allowing the magic smoke to escape. Once the magic smoke escapes, it’s very difficult to collect it all and return it to it’s secret place.

    gvelasco
    Member

    HOG2? Same deal.

    “WARNING: Your HOG2 comes equipped with an Electro-Harmonix 9.6DC-200BI power supply (same as used by Boss® & Ibanez®: 9.6 Volts DC 200mA). The HOG2 requires 170mA at 9VDC with a center negative plug. The HOG2 does not take batteries. Using the wrong adapter may damage your unit and void the warranty..”

    I’m beginning to see a pattern here. In particular, “Using the wrong adapter may damage your unit and void the warranty.”

    gvelasco
    Member

    The Ravish Sitar doesn’t specify a maximum voltage in its documentation. It simply says:

    “WARNING: Your Ravish Sitar comes equipped with an Electro-Harmonix 9.6DC200
    power supply (same as used by Boss® & Ibanez®: 9.6 Volts DC 200mA /
    Center Negative). The Ravish Sitar requires 160mA at 9VDC with a center
    negative plug. The Ravish does not take batteries. Using the wrong adapter may
    damage your unit and void the warranty.”

    It doesn’t take batteries and comes equipped with one of their 9.6V 200mA negative tip power supplies, so it MIGHT be able to handle more voltage, but I wouldn’t try it.

    in reply to: Post your Pedalboard #124329
    gvelasco
    Member

    Here’s my board so far:

    [img]https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/e4dspkTAFBKjRBtSGKrNB2SPeqsSoUkWaGnlA3r_WnVDQqj9ZqEgOJkbdRsM7-jYDSIHdgIBtubN13jtDunLHGgf6ew8CtZnPVuZl71KHlu_Ejd6rAFJaP_DU4-1raSJroVDwFRB7SATkrrX3yTv2aXWKsYsUhmz1iVWyJOfeaAEA0ixWV4EsS3ySKpmMRriG2PUzKofVGPy9Vdfh1Bo0yf5yKSoifIutJ3sZa64CurGMTjhXOaHSE__vMchYsTF1FrtL8sV33ESi59jtULig4UeCPkd8AEZQEvev27N5a_Qa0b52nab8IGs2cE2UlPYKO2-GiGrWb6O0AcD5v1OJAZhD7rkEFQ2modoRybepOybWr98Mjs9e3R9jyUa2xYh-ghVurqjhi7x3YhyuV_lIVGHC5uERgVb-QYDfkoJd6U58-IOmfiCYU747QBrgWSusuVGIHzJRcOqpvdQkS9YjI81gWofcunqodnFehjUZBG5of-YR9zJhY6ImZnPbpEkyhZ31zf1s5j8fgS8NwKz44sNulzYsULeMXsgBD-2tVbMO4eXzRqzq42IM9w8P3uOb_xRnpDBwKZQVeMmNx1zyE6aPllcwMUP7JCcTQJq4FJPGdDH81FWA2ROmw=w1733-h919-no[/img]

    in reply to: Seamless drones with 720 looper? #124328
    gvelasco
    Member
    Quote:
    Okay, I’ll give it a try, thanks.

    I think you might have a basic misunderstanding. The first recording, that is the first layer if you’re dubbing, sets the length of the loop. Overdubbing does not change the length of the original loop. So, if you start off with a 5 second loop and you dub 10 seconds on top of it, you still only end up with a 5 second loop. While the 720 is overdubbing, it just starts the first loop over again and only keeps the last 5 seconds of your overdub like this:

    Original:
    Layer 1 – 1 2 3 4 5

    When Dubbing:
    Layer 1 – 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5
    Layer 2 – 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 0

    Stop Dubbing:
    Layer 1 – 1 2 3 4 5
    Layer 2 – 6 7 8 9 0

    So, it just loops to the beginning and records through it. The total length of the original loop will never increase, and by the way, only the length of the original loop is subtracted from your total loop time of 720. Overdubbing does not subtract from your total storage.

    I don’t have the 720, so I might be wrong, but I’ve noticed with my 360 that it tries to do some sort of auto leveling of the volume when it begins recording, so that even if you start recording even after you’ve struck a cord, you will hear a pulse at the beginning of the loop. It’s a bit better if you use a compressor before the looper to get a very even volume throughout the recording, but it still doesn’t go away completely. So, here’s how I’ve gotten the best drone results with my 360.

    1. Use a compressor, or very compressed OD/Distortion/etc, before the looper.
    2. Use a very short initial loop – as short as possible.
    3. Record silence on the first loop.
    4. Fade overdubbed layers in.

    Here are the specific steps I use after everything is plugged in and ready to go. This is assuming a REC/PLAY/DUB workflow since I can’t switch to a REC/DUB/PLAY workflow on my 360. I want to build an Asus2 triad.

    — Record blank loop to equalize volume. —
    1. Turn down the volume on my guitar to record a silent initial loop.
    2. Tap the footswitch (LOOP on the 720) to start recording a short silent initial loop – about 1 second or so. Tap it again to stop. The PLAY LED will be lit and it will be flashing on the 360 to indicate the start of the loop. The PLAY LED will be lit on the 720 and it will indicate that the loop is playing.

    — Add the first note of the drone. —
    3a. Play the root (A) on my guitar with volume turned down all the way.
    3b. Quickly tap the footswitch (LOOP on the 720) to start first dub.
    3c. Quickly fade in the root note with volume control on my guitar. Let it ring past the beginning of the loop.
    3d. Tap the footswitch (LOOP on the 720) to stop the first dub.

    — Add the second note of the drone. —
    4a. Turn down volume on my guitar.
    4b. Play the second note (B) on my guitar with volume turned down all the way.
    4c. Quickly tap the footswitch (LOOP on the 720) to begin second dub.
    4d. Quickly fade in the second note with volume control on my guitar. Let it ring past the beginning of the loop.
    4e. Tap the footswitch (LOOP on the 720) to stop the second dub.

    — Add the third note of the drone. —
    5a. Turn down volume on my guitar.
    5b. Play the third note (E) on my guitar with volume turned down all the way.
    5c. Quickly tap the footswitch (LOOP on the 720) to begin third dub.
    5d. Quickly fade in the third note with volume control on my guitar. Let it ring past the beginning of the loop.
    5e. Tap the footswitch (LOOP on the 720) to stop the third dub.

    That’s a lot of steps, but I’ve discovered that if you build the drone up in faded-in layers, they kind of blend together and the restart of the loop is smoother and less noticeable. It becomes more like a shimmer.

    You might be able to do this more easily on the 720 with a REC/DUB/PLAY flow as Bill suggested, but I don’t have that to try, so you’ll need to experiment. Also, the Freeze is of course designed to do exactly this with a single press, but you lose the ability to layer your individual drone notes. For instance with the 360/720 you could do the root with an octave down to simulate a base, or use different effects for each layer, or if you use the same modulating effect like a flanger for each layer it would be at a different part of its cycle which can create a richer drone than just freezing a single chord.

    Finally, although you can use a looper as a drone machine with some effort since the Freeze is really just a very short looper without overdubing, the ultimate EHX drone machines are really the: Freeze, the Ravish Sitar, the Superego, and the Superego+. If drone is really what you want, you might consider getting something that’s designed specifically for it.

    in reply to: Canyon #124312
    gvelasco
    Member

    The Canyon remembers your secondary function settings even after losing power. So, you can set the modulation on DMM to whatever you like and it will remember. That allows you to have one type of modulation for your digital and another for your “analog”. You don’t have to tweak the secondary settings on stage.

    in reply to: Re-introducing the Triangle Big Muff Pi #124291
    gvelasco
    Member

    Nice.

    in reply to: Wah and distorsion order #124269
    gvelasco
    Member

    This is normal, and in fact it’s part of an age-old debate/discussion. Do you put your wah before or after your dirt? One thing that the EHX admin didn’t mention is that some combinations of wah and distortion actually don’t work because of impedance problems with older pedals. This is mainly a problem with old Cry Babies. I don’t think that any of the EHX pedals are susceptible to this, but they [strong]MIGHT [/strong]be depending on the fuzz.

    The best way, and really the only way I think, is to just try it out yourself and decide what you like best. Not only does it sound different depending on the order, but HOW different it sounds depending on the order also depends on the wah and the distortion. If I put my EHX Cock Fight Plus before my Big Muff with lots of gain, I can barely tell when I turn it on. If I put it before my Hot Tubes, Soul Food, or Germanium Big Muff with mild distortion, I can get that classic distortion going into an overdriven tube amp sound. If I put my Cock Fight Plus after my Big Muff, it’s almost TOO much wah. It’s VERY synth-like. If I set my Cock Fight Plus to “vocal” and use the built-in distortion BEFORE the wah, I can get clear formant-type “wah”. If I do the same but switch the distortion AFTER the vocal wah, I can barely tell that it’s on, and that’s with the built-in distortion.

    So, the best thing is to just try it out and see what works best for you. Here’s a video of how bad it can be:

    in reply to: Silencer #124263
    gvelasco
    Member
    Quote:
    I just got an ehx the silencer. I can’t seem to get it set right. I’ve trued putting it before my effects, after the effects, and looped into just one effect. The problem I’m having, once I set the controls according to the manual, and the hum disappears, my first strum or pluck starts out normal. Then it’s like the volume cracks way past max all of the sudden. No matter how or where I set the others controls, it’s the same thing.

    Noise is a notoriously difficult thing to debug. Hence the fantastic EHX Hum Debugger, but the Hum Debugger won’t help you if you having other types of noise on the line.

    What type of noise is coming through? Is it a hum, perhaps a 50 or 60 cycle hum from the mains? Have you tried turning off the lights in your room? Moving your stuff farther away from your ‘puter or the wall warts? Is it worse when you have certain effects turned on? Which ones?

    in reply to: buy a synth9 #124260
    gvelasco
    Member

    You can do whatever you want. That’s the beauty of the Synth 9, but the original Minimoog was monophonic. So, if you want to nail the sound of the original, don’t play more than one note at a time, and don’t let them overlap. That would be a dead givaway. Use the portamento.

    in reply to: Russian Big Muff True Bypass?? #124258
    gvelasco
    Member

    Are you talking about one of the new Russian Big Muff reissues, or an original Russian Big Muff?

    in reply to: Superego+ and mic input #124257
    gvelasco
    Member
    Quote:
    Actually, it’s a relatively rare microphone model that came bundled with some Korg products such as the MicroKorg…

    Those MicroKorgs are pretty cool. They can accept any “standard” XLR lo-Z mic. They do not provide phantom power, so they are not expecting an electret (a.k.a. condenser) microphone. So, you don’t have to worry about powering your mic. Just get yourself something like this:

    J39024000000000-00-500x500.jpg

    in reply to: Replacement 18″ blacklight needed for poster #124249
    gvelasco
    Member

    I think you’ll get a faster response if you send an email to info@ehx.com.

    in reply to: Superego+ and mic input #124242
    gvelasco
    Member
    Quote:
    …I understand that I need a preamp and some sort of impedance adapter after the mic,

    You shouldn’t need a preamp after your mic, but you will most likely need an impedance matcher if your mic is not already a high impedance (Hi-Z) mic. If the mic has a 1/4″ plug on it then it is most likely already Hi-Z, so you don’t need an adapter. If your mic takes a cannon (XLR, “three prong”, Lo-Z) cable, then it is most likely Lo-Z. Some mics are internally switchable. But if your mic is Lo-z, then you will most likely need an impedancing matching adapter. They just have a female Lo-z on one end and a 1/4″ plug on the other.

    Quote:
    but I wanted to know if the signal tracker circuit in the SE+ would behave fine for voice, given that it has different envelope and acoustics than a guitar.

    I read somewhere that the Superego+ sometimes has problems tracking the signal as the threshold is too high. Is this true?

    I don’t know about this. I don’t have one, so I haven’t had the chance to experiment with it. Still, this would be a volume / signal level issue, not an “acoustics” issue.

    Quote:
    The recommendation was to use a compressor before the pedal.

    This MIGHT be a solution for guitar, but be very careful applying this to a mic. You’re more likely to get feedback if the levels aren’t just right. I would definitely try it without first. If it turns out you are having problems with the signal, then you can just put a compressor between the mic and the pedal and use that to boost the signal as much as you need. You shouldn’t need a preamp before the compressor. Most comressors already have plenty of boost built into them.

    Quote:
    And lastly, have any one you used the Superego+ with voice, or any other type of instrument besides electric guitar/bass?

    Here’s a video of someone running their voice through it.

    in reply to: Replacement 18″ blacklight needed for poster #124240
    gvelasco
    Member

    Any house and garden store – Lowes, Home Depot, etc, that has a selection of fluorescent bulbs should have some black light fluorescents as well. Otherwise, you can try a battery/lighting specialty store. Black light bulbs aren’t that hard to find. I think I’ve even seen them with the fluorescent bulbs at Walmart.

Viewing 15 posts - 61 through 75 (of 159 total)