I would go

Mono Synth – Think of it as an instrument that replaces your guitar.

Next Dirt – Low gain to high gain for stacking.
Grunge
Death Metal
Tone Tattoo – Tone Tattoo last because it has a built in gate for djenting and has the Memory Toy at the end.

Expression Pedal

Canyon

It’s most common to put your expression pedal before delay so that the delay will repeat the swells of the expression pedal. If you put the expression pedal after your delay, then you’ll be swelling the delays. That’s cool too, but try them out to see what I mean.

Some people put their expression pedal before their dirt. That would be kind of like turning up the volume on your guitar to control the amount of distortion you get, so not swelling the volume really, but the gain if you know what I mean. You’re clearly a high gain super compressed kind of guy, so you’ll probably prefer your expression after your dirt to get those violin/cello type of sounds.

Most people put their time based stuff (delay/reverb) after their dirt, but My Bloody Valentine and other Shoe Gazer types would sometimes put their delays and reverbs BEFORE dirt just to really jack things up. The dirtier the better as far as shoe gazing goes, so they would just put everything before the dirt and see how hard they could push it and still be able to make out the notes they were playing.

Bass 9 – I think of this as unplugging my guitar and swapping it for a bass so I put it right at the front as if it were an instrument plugged into the pedalboard.

Rivera Buf1 – Good buffering of a long effects chain is essential to prevent high end signal loss. This is my only non-EHX pedal and it really helps to keep the signal sounding clean by the time it goes through all that cable and effects.

Hum Debugger – Does a great job of managing noise when I’m using single coils.

Silencer – I put almost everything else before the time based stuff in the Silencer loop. I carefully set it with the blend and attack so that it’s not too aggressive. Combined with the Hum Debugger it actually keeps the whole thing pretty quiet even when I have lots of effects engaged.

-> Silencer loop send ->
Knockout – It’s like being able to morph humbuckers into singles or vice verse. So, I treat it like I would adding harmonics or removing them before I go into everything else. Like an active EQ on my guitar or bass.

Attack Decay – This has to go before a compressor because it has a built in compressor and controls the volume itself.

Tone Corset – Input volume control and filtering at the beginning.

Doctor Q – Filters at the beginning of the like you. Some people like the sound of a wah (or auto wah) after distortion. I like it in front of the distortion.

Octave Multiplexer – Filtering and analog octave down.

Pitchfork – More pitch stuff. Digital this time. Again, I like it before dirt.

Frequency Analyzer – Ring Mod is a type of filter / pitch thing.

Deluxe Electric Mistress – Flanger. More filtering. I like it before dirt.

Bad Stone – More filtering. 6 stage phase shifter.

Small Stone – 4 stage phase shifter.

Good Vibes – Univibe 3 stage phase (sort of) phase shifter.

Mod 11 – Digital mod.

Cock Fight Plus – Wah after filters. Before dirt.

(Dirt time! I kind of go low gain to high gain.)
Lumberjack
Octavix
Soul Food – I keep the buffer enabled to clean up the line.
OD Glove – I run it at 18V for more headroom.
Satisfaction
East River Drive
Germanium 4 Big Muff
Hot Wax
Flatiron
Triangle Big Muff
Tone Tattoo

EHX Volume Pedal – Volume AFTER dirt so that the distortion will respond to my picking not my foot.

-> Silencer Loop Return ->

Canyon – Delay…delay…delay

Oceans 11 – Reverbbbbb. I like to verb my delay. Some people like to delay their verb.

Superego+ (with EHX Expression) – This lets me do some filtering AFTER dirt if I really want to.

Stereo Pulsar – Close to the end so that I can split the signal. This is one of my few stereo pedals. If I didn’t have the Mod 11 and didn’t care about stereo, I would put this before my delay.

Stereo Looper 720 – At the very end so that I can capture the completely effected signal in a loop.

This seems similar to what you have. Filtering first. Compression. Then Dirt. You seem to like your mod after your distortion. That’s definitely a matter of taste. Then your time based stuff. Some people like to delay their reverb. I like to reverb my delay like you. Then, finally the looper to catch all that goodness.

The pedal apparently does work with bass, but it has a built-in octave down, so it might not work like you’re hoping. They’ll either have to come out with a Bass Bass9 that doesn’t have an octave down, or you might have to go through an octave up like a POG or a Pitch Fork BEFORE the Bass9 so that it will produce the expected octave.

Fantastic! A definite must-have.

In this post I suggested the Bass9 more than one year before it was released! I’m sure they were already working on it, but it’s nice to know that it was a good idea.

https://www.ehx.com/forums/viewreply/40789/

Congratulations.

They will work, but you’ll need to experiment a lot to dial in exactly the right settings with some of them.

The most straightforward one will be the Attack-Decay. It’s a triggered effect which is actually good when you use it with an organ because it will provide a consistent trigger.

The Superego Plus is a great pedal, but it’s a bit of a mismatch for an organ. Guitar players like it because they can sustain notes forever, but an organ can already do that. I’m not saying it’s not useful at all with an organ. The built-in effects are very good and they can be used without the freeze feature. Using the freeze with an organ allows you to apply some effects to the frozen signal and another set off effects to the live signal.

The Key9, Mel9, C9, and B9 will all work, but I don’t know why you would use the B9 which is a B9 emulator for guitar when you already have an excellent, and frankly superior, B9 emulator in your Nord. The B9 also lets you emulate some other classic rock organs, but you can load sound libraries into your Nord. I don’t know all of the sound libraries that are available for your Nord, but it seems to me the only one of the “9” series pedals that you might find useful would be the Synth9 which is the one you don’t mention. That one emulates lots of classic synths which I don’t think is Nord’s specialty.

Whichever of those you use, you have to make sure NOT to use the tone wheels (pulls, stops, bars, etc.) and reduce the click simulation. The 9 series works best with a clean, simple signal as close to a sine wave as possible. Complex harmonics can throw them off, and you want to put your 9 series pedals as close to the beginning of the signal chain as possible.

If you want to do ambient music you should consider a good reverb like the Oceans 11 with a good delay like the Canyon or the Grand Canyon delay. You should also consider modulation effects like an Electric Mistress (flanger), Small Stone (Phase Shifter), Good Vibes (Univibe Phaser), and Stereo Pulsar (Tremolo).

The Oceans 11 reverb and Canyon delay are very modern “time based” effects that include settings that are very populare with ambient musicians like “shimmer” and octave which are used to create those “etherial” “heavenly” “hypnotic” types of sounds.

Phase shifters, flangers, and Univibes (really a special type of phase shifter) are classic effect that were heavily used by psychedelic bands to creat a “swirling” “spinning” or “pulsating” sound similar to a Leslie speaker. EHX makes a Leslie simulator, the Lester, but the Nord already has a Leslie simulator in it. These effects are different from a Leslie and have their own unique sounds. Since ambient is what you’re going for I would recommend the Bad Stone over the Small Stone because it has a more pronounced filter. I would recommend the Deluxe Electric Mistress because it has more control over the range and the “color” than the Neo Mistress and it has stereo outs. If you can only do one thing, I would recommend the Good Vibes because it has the deepest, most lush, most hypnotic throbbing of the phase shifters and it also does a very nice true vibrato.

If money is no object, here is my recommendation for a fantastic ambient setup:

Nord -> Attack Decay -> Mod Rex Polyrhythmic Modulator (Phaser, Flanger, Tremolo, Vibrato) -> Good Vibes -> Grand Canyon Delay -> Oceans 11 Reverb -> Amp or Board

That is the most common location, but you can experiment. Usually people put compressors before distortion so that it will drive the input for a longer time.

Keep some things in mind. A compressor will BOTH increase the volume of the input signal AND limit it. That’s why it’s called a “compressor”. It smooths out – compresses – the volume from the beginning of the note, the attack, to the end of the note, the release. A LIMITER only limits the volume, it doesn’t boost it.

So, a compressor can actually ADD NOISE, by boosting the noise if you have it set too high. Also, if you have the compressor before an effect that depends on volume like an envelope filter – Doctor Q, Bassballs, etc. – it will make that effect less sensitive.

Depending on your setup, it might actually make sense to have a compressor at the beginning or your effects chain and another, or a limiter, at the end of your effects chain. This is essentially what happens when you go into a mixing board anyway. The sound tech will usually apply some sort of limiting or compression to each channel to control spikes and get more control over blending all of the channels. Then, they might apply compression again (!) to smooth out the entire mix.

If you only have a single compressor, like MOST of us, start by putting it at the beginning of your effects chain, but don’t be afraid to move it around after you’ve gotten used to how it works.

I have LOTS of pedals on my board. My pedal order is Guitar -> Hum Debugger (Noise Canceller) -> Silencer (Noise Gate) -> Attack Decay Tape Reverse Simulator -> Knockout (Tone Shaper) -> Tone Corsete (Compressor) -> Everything else. I could move my compressor in front of my Knockout, but the Attack Decay depends on the input volume to trigger the Attack Decay cycle to that could mess it up, and the Attack Decay has a built-in compressor after its input to give the envelope more of a signal to work with on long decay settings.

First, let me say that this is really the wrong forum in which to ask this since none of these phase shifters are EHX products although at least one is a direct EHX clone. I’ll answer your question, but my recommendation will follow. Phase shifters are PRIMARILY categorized by the number of “stages”. Very generally every two stages will give you one filter “notch”. So, a two stage phase shifter will give you one notch.

MXR Phase 90 – Probably the most copied phase shifter. 4 stages give you 2 notches. The EHX Small Stone is also a 4 stage phase shifter, but sounds different.

Behringer Vintage Phaser – This is a clone of the original EHX Small Stone. It sounds pretty close, but the taper of the knobs is different.

Earthquaker Devices Grand Orbiter Phase Machine – 4 stages like the Phase 90 and the Small Stone. Lots of control over parameters – depth, feedback, etc. Maybe too much control?

MXR EVH90 Phase 90 – Branding. This is a Phase 90. Again, 4 stages. Slight tweaks of the filters, but it’s basically a Phase 90.

Joyo JF-06 Vintage Phase – Yet another Phase 90 clone. I’m sure it’s close, but it’s probably digital rather than analog.

KOKKO FPH2 Phaser – I don’t know anything about this one.

Moog MF101 Moogerfooger Low Pass Filter – Of course the Moog is awesome and fantastic. Be prepared to pay the big bucks for this baby. It’s not going to sound like a Phase 90 or a Small Stone. It’s going to sound like a very powerful, flexible, clean, SYNTHESIZER phase shifter. Not pedalboard friendly. Not wallet friendly. Not the “classic” rock guitar phase shifting sound.

MXR M290 Phase 95 – This is an interesting pedal because it lets you switch between the Phase 45 which is a 2 stage phase shifter and the Phase 90 which is a 4 stage phase shifter. It also has a “Script” button which lowers the feedback for a more “subtle” sound which is actually more like the EHX Small Stone with the COLOR switch up. I don’t have experience with this pedal, but if you’re definitely looking for the Phase 90 sound, this might be the way to go. It doesn’t look like it can be battery powered, and it MIGHT be a digital circuit which is a bit of a turn off for me.

TC Electronic Helix – TC Electronic makes good pedals. Lots of options. Lots of sounds. I’m pretty sure it all digital. Stereo – that’s nice. It’s just TOO MUCH STUFF for most people. Most people dial in a setting they like and they leave it there. Over the years LOTS of people have come to the conclusion that they really like either the MXR Phase 90 or the EHX Small Stone. They sound slightly different. So why pay more money for extra knobs and settings that you’ll never use? If you’re looking for a very tweakable pedal for studio use this might be the one for you.

Walrus Audio Vanguard Dual Phase – Walrus makes great stuff. This is the most tweakable phaser on this list. It’s the only one that gives you an option for 6 stages (3 notches) of phase shifting. It’s an awesome pedal that costs a lot of money, takes up a lot of room on your pedalboard, and gives you so many features that you probably won’t use 90% of them.

Earthquaker Devices Grand Orbiter – Earthquaker makes awesome pedals. This is no exception. It’s a very tweakable 4 stage (2 notch) phase shifter. Lots of tweaking. Expensive.

Now, these are EHX’ offerings:

Small Stone – Probably the second most replicated phase shifting circuit after the Phase 90. LOTS and LOTS of people use the Small Stone. The Nano version is very pedalboard friendly, it’s quiet, it can run on batteries, it’s extremely affordable, the new psychedelic 60s one looks great. You set the one switch and the one knob to a setting that you like, and you’re good to go. It’s a 4 stage (2 notch) phase shifter like the Phase 90, but it’s a different circuit. It’s NOT a Phase 90 clone.

Bad Stone – A 6 stage (3 notch) version of the Small Stone circuit. The MXR Phase 100 is also a 6 stage phase shifter, but they are NOT clones of each other. 6 stage phase shifter have a “sharper” or more “intense” sound.

Worm – The Worm contains a 3 stage (!) phase shifter that is intended to sound more like a Univibe type of phase shifter.

Good Vibes – This is an EXTREMELY FAITHFUL Univibe clone. It uses lamps and photoresistors to control the LFO. The Univibe is actually a phase shifter, but it’s such a unique circuit that it’s generally considered separately. The classic Univibe song is Bridge of Sighs by Robin Trower. The EHX Good Vibes nails this sound and sounds awesome.

There are some other EHX pedals that have phase shifters in them, but they try to sound like one of these.

Bottom Line?

Forget this list. Get yourself a Small Stone and you’ll be very happy.