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frances rhodesMember
ok, thanks a lot!
i’ll try to see if the values show 10k on the meter, then i’ll try to replace the pot if unefficient.
i’ll send an email to ehx and see what they say about this.about the expression pedal, does it have to be a 10k pot or can it be a 50k or 100k with the same taper? (probably a linear taper, i guess…)
frances rhodesMemberwell, it’s all one way, up or down i don’t know, otherwise the effect is not at its minimum setting when the expression pedal is at the “heel” position.
frances rhodesMemberhi everyone
i just found this old thread cause i recently bought a supposed-not-to-be-working nyc 3003 muff which turned out to be 100% functionnal and decided to try to modify the hell out of it.
i spent a good deal of time online, trying to find what does what, found kitrae’s review on all the different circuits and clones + list of mods (and tried a few), found lots of different sites and thread proposing pretty much always the same stuff (mentionned above) and didn’t quite found “it”.so far, i tried jack orman’s version 2 of the AMZ tone control, bypassed emitter resistor of clipper #2 stage, replaced the first pair of diodes with ultrabright LEDs and the second pair with standard red LEDs.
i tried asymetrical clipping with 1 LED and 1 stock diode but it didn’t sound any different. i didn’t try germanium diodes since i read that the smaller Vr, the more compressed the muff.
it opened the sound, made it much less compressed and brighter (which is what i was looking for) but i’m still looking for something “different”, something wild and crazy.
i also tried the feedback mods on kitrae’s list, just made the pedal buzz.i wanted to replace the tone section with a 3-band baxandall active eq but didn’t find any satisfying circuit so far, most of the circuits are for bass and treble only, and nowhere i can find how to design a circuit with my own frequencies and Qs. i could use the Xotic RC booster’s tone section with added mid control if i knew how to calculate the values, for instance.
i was thinking of changing the 3 470pF caps in the feedback of the first three stages but i’m not sure it will take me a lot further.
i’ve been a DIYist for a few years now so i can solder well, but everything i learnt at the college i lost with the years of not practicing, so i’m absolutely not able to take a circuit and find mods myself because i probably won’t understand anything i’m doing, so i’m asking you guys if you would know of a site/page/thread somewhere where i could find ideas to wilderness.
i’m not specially looking for ready-made mods, but hints or explanations of what such changes would do.
i want to learn but i need a little push, i believe.if anyone has any idea, i would be happy to hear and discuss it
cheersfrances rhodesMemberthanks Ron!
i believe the hiss i can hear comes from a bad bbd biasing because the “note” heard changes with the delay pot position, i think it is a “clock bleed”. i know this can be done by ear using a sound probe (it won’t be perfect but probably better).would the schematics of the early 4 knob version be close to the later version with 4 panasonic chips?
i found the schematics that everyone already has, with 2 MN3005s and the documents showing how to modify the circuit to 4 MN3008s, but i don’t know how different the 2 versions are from eachother.frances rhodesMemberQuote:Quote:Quote:There are actually 2 versions: one for home stereo use and one for guitar use. They used a small amount of delay to simulate stereo from a mono signal.isn’t the ambitron an old version of the poly-chorus?
No, you’re thinking of the Echoflanger.
oh ok, i thought i read it in an article on your blog saying that it was almost the same circuit. so the ambitron is only a very short delay without modulation. actually i remember buying the scematics of the stereo version on your website, maybe it’s time to study the circuit a little further!
frances rhodesMemberQuote:There are actually 2 versions: one for home stereo use and one for guitar use. They used a small amount of delay to simulate stereo from a mono signal.isn’t the ambitron an old version of the poly-chorus?
frances rhodesMemberhi everyone
i’ve been interested in the hog’s foot/mole for a while but what i’m looking for is a simple ‘real’ bass booster, meaning one that doesn’t affect high frequencies, but all i could find is something like the Xotic boosters, with gain, bass, treble and volume controls… and they are really expensive too!
what i wanted to know is: could i run the mole/hog’s foot in parallel with the clean uneffected signal (with an AB box-ish of some kind), and mix them 2 so that i can have a bass boost and unity gain on higher frequencies, or this kind of setting won’t work (because of phase shifting introduced by the filter, or other reasons)?
thanks
frances rhodesMemberhi everyone
i was just wondering about the bass big muff circuit.
i’d like to mod a black russian muff that i have and add a bass boost to make it a lot warmer with a bass guitar.
where shall i add the bass boost circuit? before the whole effect, after it, or in between 2 transistor stages?thanks
regardsfrances rhodesMemberQuote:Yeah for NPN and then use 2N5087 for PNP if you wish.great, thanks a lot! that’s precious information
frances rhodesMemberQuote:Its not gonna make a difference if you wanna build a clone. Just use 2N5089’s.If its for research purposes, well I cant help you as I don’t remember.LOL I don’t even know if I ever knew….
Kit will know!
Have you checked his site out? I havent been there in ages but I think he tells you on his site.
thanks!
yes i visited this site, they talk about “Russian E-type transistors” but no more precise reference is given, unfortunately.
i was first asking for documentation, but actually i may try to build myself a clone, i’m not sure yet. are the 2N5089s suitable for any NPN version? i read the big muff V6 was the best version built so far, maybe i’ll try this one.frances rhodesMembercould somebody tell me which transistor were used in the civil war muff, please?
i read this thread… not from end to end but i read most of it and everywhere else i looked i couldn’t find the answer.
thanksfrances rhodesMemberafter reading this whole thread, i’m french too and i also would like to know how the delay time could be extended because i have 2 “classic chassis” DMMs and they don’t have the same max delay time. the one with the shortest is the oldest (chicken-head pots + external power supply) and apparently has been gigged a lot or pretty mistreated, and i also have other problems such as lower signal output with the effect on (echo out) than bypassed (the output signal being driven by the level pot, thus not true-bypass modified) that i could deal with by doing a little AB-switch mod on it (since there is little room in it, around the switch) but i don’t want to change anything like that so that it would keep its value and i wouldn’t want to add an AB-box to it or to my pedal board.
i don’t mind this older unit not being true-bypass, some people might say “it colours your signal” and… what are effects for anyway!? but it is really not convenient that the output level, even the level of the direct signal before repeats, is lower when effect engaged. i read on some random forums that it may be something quite (@electricsky “quiet” veut dire silencieux ;] ) common since many people seem to (have) encounter(ed) this problem.
fact is that i spent around 1000€ in electro harmonix effects since december 09 (HOG, polychorus, holiest grail, 1980s deluxe memory man) and that i am a musician currently unemployed, which i know is kind of stupid but now it is spent so i have to deal with it, and i really cannot afford to ship a pedal to the US, then pay for any repair + handling and then an other shipment back to france, not forgetting about the travel of the pedal overseas back and forth certainly wouldn’t be what’s best for the components’ life.
i could find a scope and a generator to borrow but i don’t know what to check with it, thus i’m very interested in what could be done!
i can understand it is a way of earning money for several people here, so i could understand that they may not want to teach us how to achieve it ourselves so that anyone could do it alone after that, but i am still asking this as a favour, if someone was willing to tell me (and also electricsky) privately by email (i could give my personal email address), i would keep the information to myself if requested.thank you anyway for this!
ps: electricsky, si tu veux les schémas de circuits de pédales tu tapes schematics et le nom de la pédale dans google et en général tu trouves ce que tu veux. ceux du deluxe memory man sont dispo sur plein de sites (des fois payants)
frances rhodesMemberQuote:Quote:i dont mean to hate, but i am curious- what is with the masking tape on select pedals?hehe it’s no big mystery!!
in french it’s called something like “paper-tape” it’s used all the time to write your settings with a pencil so you can erase it, etc.
actually, i taped almost every pedal i have with the intention of writing down the settings because my father had a roll of that tape… but after taping everything, i didn’t write anything!frances rhodesMember@friedjesseradio
the deluxe memory boy has a gain control! like the memory man.
my only wish is that they would have been released in the old pedal format. i liked the old design so much more… too bad for me, maybe i’ll find somewhere i can buy blanck empty EHX old style stomp boxes…frances rhodesMemberthe “modulation”, in my opinion, refers to both chorus/vibrato and the “effect” on the delay that already features on the memory boy where you can choose the shape of the wave and the depth of the modulation.
you should seek a demo on youtube, i saw one that was pretty relevant.
and the controls on the deluxe memory boy are (in order): blend – gain – rate – depth (which is basically the wave shape – triangle or square or a mix of the 2) – feedback – delay
there is 1 input and 1 output, a send – return loop and you can use an expression pedal
the 2 white switches in the middle part are “tap divide” and “exp. mode” where you can choose to control either one of rate, depth, feedback or delaythat’s all i can tell about it with the picture i found
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