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Flick (EHX Staff)ModeratorQuote:My new less-than-a-month old DMM Tap Tempo is doing the same thing! I can’t hear the beeping clock noise, but there is no delay coming out. The blend knob controls how much dry signal is coming out, but no wet signal comes out. Gain knob seems to work fine, but everything else I can’t even tell.
I’m about to send in for warranty repair I believe, but can someone please help!
Did the DMMTT work initially and now it doesn’t? If so, it’s very possible one of the BBD chips came loose from their socket. You can try pushing all of the BBD chips back into their sockets.
Flick (EHX Staff)ModeratorI just want to mention that we are aware of the warble problem in the Ring Thing when using an expression pedal but we have not had the time yet to fix it. We hope to have a fix by the end of November. I have no idea how we are going to update units out in the field though.
Flick (EHX Staff)ModeratorWhat was the setting of the grey knob on the side of the M-Audio pedal? It needs to be set to the narrowest portion of the swoop symbol on the knob in order to get the full range out of the expression pedal. Basically you have to turn the grey knob all the way down.
Also make sure the switch on the bottom is set to “M-AUDIO”.
This is true for all our pedals that have expression inputs.
August 18, 2011 at 8:34 pm in reply to: Memory Man With Hazarai – Major issue! Please help!! #115736Flick (EHX Staff)ModeratorQuote:OK then..I’m in Australia, where should I send it? It pains me to think of replacing the unit when everything seems so close to being right….
Cheers,
Tim
Unfortunately we don’t have a repair center in Australia. It looks like you will need to ship it back to us to fix it.
August 16, 2011 at 4:10 pm in reply to: The What Is The Current Draw For That EHX Pedal Thread #115762Flick (EHX Staff)ModeratorQuote:I saw the entry for Deluxe Memory Boy. Is the output requirements the same for the new version with Tap Tempo? Has anyone run this pedal @ 12v? Will that damage it?There is only one version of the Deluxe Memory Boy and it has tap tempo.
There really isn’t much difference at 12V.
Flick (EHX Staff)ModeratorQuote:Hey folks,I’ve got a sinking feeling that I’ve royally screwed my Polychorus somehow…
Seems as though all the effects have been massively subdued (particularly the Flanger, which is now pretty much nonexistent) in the time since I’ve owned the pedal. I’ve done a bit of research on this issue and seen people attribute such things to the internal trim pots being incorrectly calibrated and whatnot, so upon taking the pedal apart to check their positions, smelled the frightening odor of burnt plastic…after looking over everything, nothing looked burnt/unusual…Does anyone have any ideas of what may have caused this to happen?? Any input is massively appreciated!
I think you need to send that in for repair. It could be anything.
Flick (EHX Staff)ModeratorQuote:I am having this problem too – the clix bleeding through into the tracks making an electro buzzing sound that is not intended… Any solutions? or suggestions of what the problem might be?(I noticed that the last posting in this thread was 2009! – so – i wonder if anyway will respond to this?)
The problem of the CLIX bleeding through to the outputs, even when CLIX is set to 0 is actually due to a low wall voltage or a low voltage from the AC Adapter. Early units (so if you bought a used one this could apply to you) had this problem even with acceptable wall voltages. For example the Clix buzz would start around 112 VAC in the US. The problem was fixed with a couple of hardware changes to the power supply circuitry inside the 2880.
If you have a newer unit the problem could be due to a faulty AC Adapter or if you are not using the correct AC Adapter.
Flick (EHX Staff)ModeratorQuote:Hey Flick,Thanks for the reply..
I’ve done some readings..
I’m reading 3.3V DC at the terminals you mentioned. 0V DC when the switch is engaged.
I’m reading 5VDC across the 7805 (U13)
1.3V +Side of D14 to GND
2.5V +Side C1 to GNDThe markings on the PCB are dated 20th March 2007 Build 1
Thought my Christmases had come at once when I saw the Deluxe Memory Man w/ Tap – but no longer avail right? Will it come back?
Thanks..
T.
All those voltage readings are correct but I’m baffled as to why it is acting like the TAP FSW is being held down. I think we’ll have to look at this unit.
Flick (EHX Staff)ModeratorQuote:Thanks for the answers Flick. Sounds like it would work perfectly with the fretless guitar I’m planning.Is the sympathetic section basically a comb filter, or is it based on its own algorithm?
No, the sympathetic strings are more like synthesizers rather than resonators. The tone is set by the Timbre knob and the amplitude of the scale’s pitches are set by the guitar’s volume.
Flick (EHX Staff)ModeratorQuote:awesome. I’m curious as to what it’d read for a white-noise shot. or vocals. any clue what the market price is going to be yet?I believe the street price is $240.
Flick (EHX Staff)ModeratorQuote:Quote:In addition you can input your own scales for the sympathetics strings. You press and hold the DRONE/TUNE FSW, then play each note you want the scale to contain. The Ravish will track each pitch and recreate it when the sympathetic strings ring out. If you then save a preset, your scale will be saved along with the all the other knob and parameter settings. If you only play just one note while holding down the DRONE/TUNE FSW, the Ravish retunes the currently selected scale to that note but if you play more than one note then it begins creating a new scale from the notes you play.whoa.
That’s huge.so say I have something that doesn’t use some sort of standardised pitch like the Korg ER-1 [where all you have is a ‘pitch’ knob and a remodulating option- no defined values or anything], I can tune the sympathetics to be drones of whichever drum patches [provided I initially set it up/train it to the drum kit i’m using]?
If so, kind of an interesting method of doing the reverse of a slicer effect.
Basically the process of inputting notes into a custom scale is a monophonic task. The Ravish can only accept one note at a time. You play the note, then Ravish gives you feedback that it got it and you move on to the next one. So if you are using a drum machine like the ER-1, you would have to input each drum one at a time. The Ravish will attempt to find the root frequency of each drum hit, it will probably come back with some interesting scales! If the drum sound modulates in frequency, as you can do on the ER-1, I don’t know at the moment what Ravish will do with the note. We have to test it.
Flick (EHX Staff)ModeratorQuote:Hopefully Flick will get in here to answer some questions.Here’s my first one. Sitars are tuned in just intonation while guitars are tuned in equal tempered intonation. Are the sympathetic sounds in just or equal? If I play just scales with a slide or on a fretless, would it work out, or sound out of tune? Would the effect work well with a microtonally fretted guitar?
It’s a rather fringe question, but I’ve been considering making a fretless guitar for more eastern sounding music & I’m wondering if this would work well with it.
Since you asked for me… Here’s a little background on the Ravish.
LEAD VOICE
The LEAD voice will track your playing very well, if you play with a slide it will track it. Basically whatever you play on the guitar, the LEAD voice will make it sound like a sitar is playing it. The more your playing mimics how a Sitar player would actually play, the closer it will sound to a real sitar. You have control over the LEAD’s timbre, kind of like a tone control and its volume or level.SYMPATHETIC DRONES – here’s where I try to answer Julian’s question
This is where the Ravish really begins to shine. As you play your guitar, the sympathetic strings start to resonate in whatever key you have chosen. Let’s start with E Major. No matter what you play, the sympathetics will ring out in E major. They will track your pitch a little bit, if you play lower notes, the sympathetics will resonate lower notes in the chosen key, if you play higher, the sympathetics will produce higher notes in that key. Minor mode does the same thing but in E minor instead of E major. The exotics scales we are still working on and are disabled on the units we sent to NAMM. If you were to play with a slide, within the given scale you have chosen, I think it would sound great. When playing your guitar more traditionally, in most situations, having a tuned guitar when playing along with the sympathetics, is essential. For the sympathetics you also have control over their Timbre and volume Level as well as a dedicated output just for the sympathetics so they can go to their own effects and amp if you want.MORE ON SYMPATHETICS – both of the following functions require you to be in KEY mode
You can tune the sympathetics to your instrument. First you choose one of the three types of scales: Major, Minor or Exotic, then hold down the DRONE/TUNE FSW. You play one note, that note will set the root key of the sympathetic’s scale. If the guitar is a little out of tune, that’s ok, the Ravish will track to the tuning of the root note you play. So if you want to quickly change to F# major, as long as the Ravish is set to major, you press and hold down the TUNE FSW, then play an F#, now the sympathetics are in F#.In addition you can input your own scales for the sympathetics strings. You press and hold the DRONE/TUNE FSW, then play each note you want the scale to contain. The Ravish will track each pitch and recreate it when the sympathetic strings ring out. If you then save a preset, your scale will be saved along with the all the other knob and parameter settings. If you only play just one note while holding down the DRONE/TUNE FSW, the Ravish retunes the currently selected scale to that note but if you play more than one note then it begins creating a new scale from the notes you play.
DRONE/TUNE FSW
This footswitch allows you to freeze the sympathetic strings if you press and hold the FSW, except when you are in KEY mode. While in KEY mode this FSW allows you to tune the sympathetic strings. If you press and release this FSW, it will load the current preset or move up to the next one.Flick (EHX Staff)ModeratorQuote:Hi All,So the other day, a friend of mine borrowed my MMWH, called me and said – “is it supposed to start looping on every delay setting? I cant tap the tempo in either” This friend is competent – he wouldn’t have used the wrong power supply etc.. The delays sound right, but, as he said, tap tempo does not work and the loop is always on.
First thought is there is a short/fault with the tap switch, as the pedal is behaving like it is held down. But I opened it up and tested the switches for shorts/continuity and found nothing wrong.
Tracing this any further back into the circuit will be a real PITA as it is all SMD components in there…
Anyone had something like this before? Anyone measured any voltages?
Any help would be greatly appreciated!
Cheers,
TimIt does sound like the TAP FSW is always engaged. Do you have a voltmeter? While the pedal is powered up, what is the voltage across the two pins of the TAP FSW that are wired? It should be approximately 3.3V. When press down on the TAP FSW, that should change to 0.0V. Sometimes it is easier to see a fault with a footswitch while the unit is powered up rather than measuring impedance.
Flick (EHX Staff)ModeratorQuote:I had been waiting for this pedal quite a long time.
Firstly, they said will on sale at late march, then changed to early april, and soon changed to late april again, and now, I stil can’t find it on sale, why? anybody know about this?
Besides, how you guys think about the pedal – Deluxe memory man tap tempo?
We have not yet sold all of the DMMTT units with the MN3005s. Maybe the best approach would be to ask your local EHX dealer to order one for you. Also scour the internet, some internet dealers may still have them.
Flick (EHX Staff)ModeratorQuote:I’ve got a .22 Caliber amp and am wondering how the clean headroom of the 44 Magnum compares. The 22 is a cool little amp. I wonder what class D guitar amp will be released next…..?Thanks, Andy
You do get a bit more headroom on the 44 as compared to the 22 before it starts to break up but not a lot more. If you were to compare the knob settings for when both amps begin to break up, it would be at about the same setting but the 44 will give you a bit more volume up to the break up point.
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