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  • in reply to: DMMTT Lo cut #116921
    Quote:
    on this topic of effects loops in the DMMWTT, I want to run a regular DMM echoes – in the loop of the DMMWtt, to get like a multitap thing –
    could you give me a way to do that – with the blend knobs etc

    We haven’t tried this, it sounds like a great idea. I would recommend setting the BLEND knob of the DMM to 50% or so, that way the DMMTT will delay both the original dry signal and the delayed signal from the DMM. You’ll probably want to set the BLEND on the DMMTT to around 50% also.

    in reply to: DMMTT Lo cut #116911
    Quote:
    Hi

    I love my DMMTT but I really liked the Lo cut option on the DMB. Would it work if I wired some sort of tone pot (if there’s one that cuts bass rather than the treble) to a couple of jacks and put it in the FX loop or is not that simple? I’d like to avoid using a full sized EQ pedal if at all posssible

    If so what type of/ value pot should I use? I’m assuming it wouldn’t do any harm but I don’t know much about electronics!

    Any suggestions would be very welcome
    Pete

    You can definitely insert an EQ into the DMMTT’s FX Loop and get the same lo cut feature that is present in the DXMB. You will need at least three components in order to make the low cut circuit: 1 potentiometer, 1 capacitor and 1 resistor. I recommend the following values:

    0.1uF Capacitor
    100k / Reverse LOG (Linear would also work) Potentiometer
    470 ohm resistor

    Connect one lead of the 0.1uF capacitor directly to the input jack of the EQ.
    Connect the other lead of the capacitor to the output of the EQ.
    Connect the 470 ohm resistor to the lead of the capacitor that is connected to the output.
    Connect the other lead of the 470 resistor to the CW (clockwise) pin of the pot.
    Connect the CCW pin of the pot to the GND connection of the input/output jacks of the EQ.
    Connect the wiper of the pot to the grounded CCW pin of the pot.

    In this set up, as you turn the knob clockwise, more low end will be cut. It will definitely work best with a reverse log potentiometer. The linear will work ok, but most of the filtering action will occur in the last 25% of CW rotation. If you can get a log pot, you could reverse the CW and CCW connections and make it so that turning the pot CCW will filter more of the low end.

    in reply to: The What Is The Current Draw For That EHX Pedal Thread #116712
    Quote:
    what could be the minimum ?

    The minimum voltage is 12VDC. The minimum current, to get something usable, not really sure but probably 0.5A.

    One note of warning: if you are using a power supply that can’t supply enough current, the 22 Caliber will still try to draw as much current as it can get, this could potentially damage the power supply.

    in reply to: The What Is The Current Draw For That EHX Pedal Thread #116853
    Quote:
    Hello

    I would like to know if the caliber 22 can run with less mA ?

    the manual says 18VDC 1,5A

    Can I use a different voltage or amperage ?

    You can run at lower current and/or lower voltage (I think down to 12VDC) but its peak output power will also be reduced below 22W.

    Quote:
    So my GUESS is that it’s getting a play command somehow from the Looper mode, and as long as it never receives a “stop”, it believes the MIDI master is in a playback mode so it works. Am I right?

    That’s right, if the 2880 has received a START command, and does not receive the STOP command, it will begin recording immediately the first time you press the RECORD button. You can also start and stop the loop using the 2880’s buttons and it will allow you to start and stop all you want.

    If the 2880 has not received the START command, it will record the loop but if you stop loop playback, it will not PLAY the loop again until it has received a START command even if you press play on the 2880.

    Quote:
    One question – in step 4, if it doesn’t receive a Play command, and I hit Rec a second time, what exactly happens? Is it really the same as giving an external Play command? Or is it disengaging from the master and reverting to its previous tempo?

    Hitting RECORD a second is the same as giving it the MIDI START command. The first time you press RECORD, the 2880 puts itself into a Record Ready mode, this is when both the EXT CLOCK and RECORD LEDs blink rapidly. The second time you press RECORD the 2880 begins recording using the MIDI clock to set the tempo.

    Quote:
    This is where I’m confused. When slaved to the Eventide TimeFactor, AND receiving MIDI clock, it still waits. Meaning, when its in NEW LOOP mode (flashing footswitch LEDs) and I press REC, instead of starting to record like it normally does, the Tempo LED flashes rapidly and it continues to wait. Then if I press REC a second time, it goes, but it no longer listens to the MIDI clock.

    I think someone here has a Time Factor so we’ll have to check it out and see what’s going on with its MIDI Clock output.

    Quote:
    My understanding is that it MIDI clock alone does not suffice, it must also receive a PLAY/START command (I believe it’s referred to as a “START COMMAND” in the manual). Or the MIDI master must be currently playing back (not just sending clock).

    From my experience, with my setup, the 2880 doesn’t begin to operate the way you describe until after I do my little hack.

    Can you shed more light on this? I suspect its just an issue with my Factor pedals and if I used a normal MIDI controller it might work differently, but I still haven’t gotten a chance to test this…

    Normal operation on the 2880 when recording a NEW LOOP while syncing to MIDI Clock goes like this:

    1. Connect your MIDI cable to the 2880’s MIDI IN port. Set up your master device to produce MIDI CLK, preferably all the time. I’ll assume that the device is producing MIDI clock all the time in the following steps.

    2. Enable EXT CLOCK and optionally, though I highly recommend, also QUANTIZE mode. Both LEDs should be lit above their respective buttons.

    3. At this point you can check if 2880 is receiving the MIDI Clock correctly by changing the tempo on the master device while looking at the blinking CLIX LEDs. A tempo of 300 will cause the LEDs to blink rapidly. A tempo of say 130 will give you a medium speed blink and a tempo of 50 will be a pretty slow blink. If you see the changes in the blinking LED speeds then the 2880 is correctly receiving MIDI clock.

    4. Now to record a Loop: Press the NEW LOOP button, the RECORD LED will blink. Press the RECORD button, now both the RECORD and EXT CLOCK LEDs should be blinking. At this point the 2880 is in record ready mode and is waiting for the user to either press the RECORD button or to receive the PLAY command from the MIDI master; either will cause the 2880 to begin recording the new loop. If you have QUANTIZE on as well, it will go through some portion of the 4 beat count-in. The 4 beat count-in picks up where ever the master happens to be within a bar at the time you press RECORD.

    5. When you want to finish recording the loop press PLAY, the 2880 will begin playing back whatever you recorded on Track 1 and also begin recording on Track 2. If Quantize is on it will either finish out the bar or truncate to the end of the previous bar.

    6. In step 4, if there is no MIDI Clock present when you hit RECORD the second time to begin recording, the 2880 will default to the last known good MIDI clock tempo or if no MIDI clock tempo had ever been present, it will default to the last setting of the TEMPO slider before enabling EXT CLOCK.

    Basically as long as the 2880 is receiving MIDI clock, while EXT CLOCK is turned on, it will playback or record its loops to the tempo set by the MIDI Clock. But if it is not receiving MIDI Clock while EXT CLOCK is turned on, it just waits, or as Feralchild pointed out switches to its own internal clock. Many drum machines and computer sequencers only send out MIDI Clock when they are playing back audio.

    So as long as the 2880 is receiving MIDI Clock from a drum machine that is continually playing, you can pretty much use the 2880 normally to record new loops, overdub and playback. You should turn QUANTIZE mode ON so that the 2880’s bar lengths match up with the bar lengths of the drum machine (assuming the drum machine is in 4/4 time).

    in reply to: DMM question. #116628
    Quote:
    Hi I am writing because I have a DMM XO and I want to know if the white noise can be reduced with a noise suppressor like the Boss NS2 or the EHX Humdebugger.

    Tbe Hum Debugger will only cut out noise that is related to 60 or 50 cycle hum from wall outlets. The noise in the DMM is a broadband white noise.

    Do you only hear the noise when you play notes? The DMM has its own built-in noise suppression circuit and you really should only hear the white noise when you play notes and on each subsequent echo. If you are hearing white noise at all times then something may be wrong with your DMM, if you are only hearing the white noise when you play notes and on each subsequent echo then there may not be much more you can do. The Boss NS2 acts in a very similar fashion to the noise suppression in the DMM.

    in reply to: The What Is The Current Draw For That EHX Pedal Thread #116627
    Quote:
    This is so helpful, thanks so much! What is the draw on the Holier Grail? Thanks!

    The Holier Grail draws about 235mA.

    in reply to: The What Is The Current Draw For That EHX Pedal Thread #116524
    Quote:
    That’s what I thought, thanks Flick! I’d be running a holy grail + in the other 250 mA output and some muffs in the sag outputs. Is the older big box version of the Multiplexer the same 11 mA as the newer version? I’m trying to work 15 pedals on one board (yes I’m a pedal junkie) and wanting to give my self room in the mA department on all outputs(PP2) as to not overload anything. Do mA rates ever change or should I say spike above the normal rates? I’m trying to give myself at least 20-30mA’s per outlet to spare. Thats a little closer than the normal 9v wall worts(ehx,boss,dunlop,etc) safety range(200mA average). Thanks again

    The older Octave Multiplexer should have the same current draw as the new one.

    Current draw could change, for example it is higher when the LED is lit vs. bypass mode. When we give current ratings we do try to give the maximum steady state current draw. Usually there is a small current spike when a pedal is first power up.

    It’s definitely a good idea to give each power outlet a little extra room, 20-30 mA sounds pretty fair.

    in reply to: The What Is The Current Draw For That EHX Pedal Thread #116516
    Quote:
    Ok, thanks for the quick reply. Would I then be able to daisy a couple pedals such as the Pulsar and Small Clone old box, as long as I stay under the 250ma rating for that output? Echo=190 Pulsar=17 Small Clone=10 etc.? Thanks

    As long as the total current draw of all the pedals is below 250mA, it should be fine. For those three pedals, the total draw is 227 mA, probably wouldn’t be a good idea to add anything else to that particular power port.

    in reply to: The What Is The Current Draw For That EHX Pedal Thread #116511
    Quote:
    I’m having a tough time trying to locate the #1 echo’s ma current. I’m wondering if I can run it off of one of the 100ma outputs on my PP2 or do I need to use one of the 250ma outputs like my holy grail plus?? Thank You for any answers

    The #1 Echo draws about 185mA so you will need to connect it to one of the 250mA outputs.

    in reply to: Holiest Grail dead! #116464
    Quote:
    My beloved Holiest Grail is dead, I plug it in, sometimes I press the switches they light up normally but no sound. Other times I plug it in and the unit is completely stuck again with no sound..
    The power adaptor is ok.

    I’m from Greece, where can I get it repaired? is there any service point in Europe?

    Thanks

    Our official repair center for most of Europe is Musik Elektronik in Germany. Here’s the website: http://www.musikhof.de/

Viewing 15 posts - 586 through 600 (of 739 total)