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  • Quote:
    One question – in step 4, if it doesn’t receive a Play command, and I hit Rec a second time, what exactly happens? Is it really the same as giving an external Play command? Or is it disengaging from the master and reverting to its previous tempo?

    Hitting RECORD a second is the same as giving it the MIDI START command. The first time you press RECORD, the 2880 puts itself into a Record Ready mode, this is when both the EXT CLOCK and RECORD LEDs blink rapidly. The second time you press RECORD the 2880 begins recording using the MIDI clock to set the tempo.

    Quote:
    This is where I’m confused. When slaved to the Eventide TimeFactor, AND receiving MIDI clock, it still waits. Meaning, when its in NEW LOOP mode (flashing footswitch LEDs) and I press REC, instead of starting to record like it normally does, the Tempo LED flashes rapidly and it continues to wait. Then if I press REC a second time, it goes, but it no longer listens to the MIDI clock.

    I think someone here has a Time Factor so we’ll have to check it out and see what’s going on with its MIDI Clock output.

    Quote:
    My understanding is that it MIDI clock alone does not suffice, it must also receive a PLAY/START command (I believe it’s referred to as a “START COMMAND” in the manual). Or the MIDI master must be currently playing back (not just sending clock).

    From my experience, with my setup, the 2880 doesn’t begin to operate the way you describe until after I do my little hack.

    Can you shed more light on this? I suspect its just an issue with my Factor pedals and if I used a normal MIDI controller it might work differently, but I still haven’t gotten a chance to test this…

    Normal operation on the 2880 when recording a NEW LOOP while syncing to MIDI Clock goes like this:

    1. Connect your MIDI cable to the 2880’s MIDI IN port. Set up your master device to produce MIDI CLK, preferably all the time. I’ll assume that the device is producing MIDI clock all the time in the following steps.

    2. Enable EXT CLOCK and optionally, though I highly recommend, also QUANTIZE mode. Both LEDs should be lit above their respective buttons.

    3. At this point you can check if 2880 is receiving the MIDI Clock correctly by changing the tempo on the master device while looking at the blinking CLIX LEDs. A tempo of 300 will cause the LEDs to blink rapidly. A tempo of say 130 will give you a medium speed blink and a tempo of 50 will be a pretty slow blink. If you see the changes in the blinking LED speeds then the 2880 is correctly receiving MIDI clock.

    4. Now to record a Loop: Press the NEW LOOP button, the RECORD LED will blink. Press the RECORD button, now both the RECORD and EXT CLOCK LEDs should be blinking. At this point the 2880 is in record ready mode and is waiting for the user to either press the RECORD button or to receive the PLAY command from the MIDI master; either will cause the 2880 to begin recording the new loop. If you have QUANTIZE on as well, it will go through some portion of the 4 beat count-in. The 4 beat count-in picks up where ever the master happens to be within a bar at the time you press RECORD.

    5. When you want to finish recording the loop press PLAY, the 2880 will begin playing back whatever you recorded on Track 1 and also begin recording on Track 2. If Quantize is on it will either finish out the bar or truncate to the end of the previous bar.

    6. In step 4, if there is no MIDI Clock present when you hit RECORD the second time to begin recording, the 2880 will default to the last known good MIDI clock tempo or if no MIDI clock tempo had ever been present, it will default to the last setting of the TEMPO slider before enabling EXT CLOCK.

    Basically as long as the 2880 is receiving MIDI clock, while EXT CLOCK is turned on, it will playback or record its loops to the tempo set by the MIDI Clock. But if it is not receiving MIDI Clock while EXT CLOCK is turned on, it just waits, or as Feralchild pointed out switches to its own internal clock. Many drum machines and computer sequencers only send out MIDI Clock when they are playing back audio.

    So as long as the 2880 is receiving MIDI Clock from a drum machine that is continually playing, you can pretty much use the 2880 normally to record new loops, overdub and playback. You should turn QUANTIZE mode ON so that the 2880’s bar lengths match up with the bar lengths of the drum machine (assuming the drum machine is in 4/4 time).

    in reply to: DMM question. #116628
    Quote:
    Hi I am writing because I have a DMM XO and I want to know if the white noise can be reduced with a noise suppressor like the Boss NS2 or the EHX Humdebugger.

    Tbe Hum Debugger will only cut out noise that is related to 60 or 50 cycle hum from wall outlets. The noise in the DMM is a broadband white noise.

    Do you only hear the noise when you play notes? The DMM has its own built-in noise suppression circuit and you really should only hear the white noise when you play notes and on each subsequent echo. If you are hearing white noise at all times then something may be wrong with your DMM, if you are only hearing the white noise when you play notes and on each subsequent echo then there may not be much more you can do. The Boss NS2 acts in a very similar fashion to the noise suppression in the DMM.

    in reply to: The What Is The Current Draw For That EHX Pedal Thread #116627
    Quote:
    This is so helpful, thanks so much! What is the draw on the Holier Grail? Thanks!

    The Holier Grail draws about 235mA.

    in reply to: The What Is The Current Draw For That EHX Pedal Thread #116524
    Quote:
    That’s what I thought, thanks Flick! I’d be running a holy grail + in the other 250 mA output and some muffs in the sag outputs. Is the older big box version of the Multiplexer the same 11 mA as the newer version? I’m trying to work 15 pedals on one board (yes I’m a pedal junkie) and wanting to give my self room in the mA department on all outputs(PP2) as to not overload anything. Do mA rates ever change or should I say spike above the normal rates? I’m trying to give myself at least 20-30mA’s per outlet to spare. Thats a little closer than the normal 9v wall worts(ehx,boss,dunlop,etc) safety range(200mA average). Thanks again

    The older Octave Multiplexer should have the same current draw as the new one.

    Current draw could change, for example it is higher when the LED is lit vs. bypass mode. When we give current ratings we do try to give the maximum steady state current draw. Usually there is a small current spike when a pedal is first power up.

    It’s definitely a good idea to give each power outlet a little extra room, 20-30 mA sounds pretty fair.

    in reply to: The What Is The Current Draw For That EHX Pedal Thread #116516
    Quote:
    Ok, thanks for the quick reply. Would I then be able to daisy a couple pedals such as the Pulsar and Small Clone old box, as long as I stay under the 250ma rating for that output? Echo=190 Pulsar=17 Small Clone=10 etc.? Thanks

    As long as the total current draw of all the pedals is below 250mA, it should be fine. For those three pedals, the total draw is 227 mA, probably wouldn’t be a good idea to add anything else to that particular power port.

    in reply to: The What Is The Current Draw For That EHX Pedal Thread #116511
    Quote:
    I’m having a tough time trying to locate the #1 echo’s ma current. I’m wondering if I can run it off of one of the 100ma outputs on my PP2 or do I need to use one of the 250ma outputs like my holy grail plus?? Thank You for any answers

    The #1 Echo draws about 185mA so you will need to connect it to one of the 250mA outputs.

    in reply to: Holiest Grail dead! #116464
    Quote:
    My beloved Holiest Grail is dead, I plug it in, sometimes I press the switches they light up normally but no sound. Other times I plug it in and the unit is completely stuck again with no sound..
    The power adaptor is ok.

    I’m from Greece, where can I get it repaired? is there any service point in Europe?

    Thanks

    Our official repair center for most of Europe is Musik Elektronik in Germany. Here’s the website: http://www.musikhof.de/

    in reply to: DMMWTT the 300? #116456
    Quote:
    so production is on hold on these or stopped and the shorter version is getting the chips? Im just asking to figure out if it’s worth holding out for a dmmwtt or waiting for a hopefully cheaper shorter version.,.

    The DMMTT uses four MN3005s which are scarce. We were able to buy enough to build around 500 units. We will build more if and when we can find more MN3005s. We do still have some of these units on our factory floor.

    The shorter version (which will have a different name and artwork) will use the MN3008 chips which have half the number bucket brigades as compared to the MN3005, yielding half the delay time.

    We are not taking MN3005 chips from the DMMTT to build the shorter version.

    I don’t know what the price will be on the shorter version of this product.

    in reply to: DMMWTT the 300? #116462

    That number of 800-900 DMMTTs is wrong. It is more like a total 500 DMMTTs until we find more 3005s.

    in reply to: DMMWTT the 300? #116454
    Quote:
    Quote:
    We have definitely sold more than 300. We should get about 800-900 units out there before the chips dry up again.

    800-900 of the dmmwtt? or the new unit with shorter times?

    800-900 of the DMMTT, not the shorter unit.

    in reply to: DMMWTT the 300? #116444

    There will be a version with half the delay time. It will identifiable as a different product. It will have a different name and different color scheme. It has not been released yet. If you see a DMMTT out there it will have the full 1.1 seconds of delay.

    in reply to: DMMWTT the 300? #116443

    We have definitely sold more than 300. We should get about 800-900 units out there before the chips dry up again.

Viewing 15 posts - 586 through 600 (of 734 total)