Well, I can say one thing… the popping you get when you step on a TB pedal has nothing to do with ‘crap components’ or the quality of the components at all….. it’s more to do with the circuit design, the nature of bypassing a pedal with a 3pdt switch and using the same switch to turn the led on and off and the way the pedal is grounded… and also what pedals you put before and after it can play a part in how loud the pop is too. It’s nothing to do with the quality of the components, which in reality are pretty standard parts you would find in every mass produced item in your house, from your TV to you alarm clock, to your CD player, blue ray and every other massed produced pedal on the shelf.
If you want an answer from EHX contact them directly (https://www.ehx.com/about/contact) they rarely reply to questions on here. The help you are going to get here is from other users and I don’t know if any of them own the Solando pre you are talking about.. and without knowing the specs of that unit it’s kinda hard to answer.
….or the regular fuel tank which has 8x9v outputs + a 12ac and 12dc.. if the 5 on the Jr isn’t enough… There’s also the ‘Chameleon’ which has switchable outputs… either way the Juicy Lucy is the worst option for you.
Ok my big muff is fine I tried it by itself and then stuck it befor the overdrive. It just can’t go after the overdrive it has to go first. It loses so tone and so does the overdrive. I had the tone off when I plugged it in and was VERY LOUD LoL. Scarred the hell out of me. I forgot to turn the volumes down. My ear hurts and the neighbors probably freaked out.
Why is the volume so low when it is after the overdrive? Does it have something to do with the buffer in the overdrive?
maybe .. impedance issues probably, a lot of fuzz pedals can be very unhappy with anything other than a guitar plugged into them… the Fuzz Face being a classic example of this.
+1 on punkifier love. only pedal that gets so loud it feedsback when i record direct in + headphones.
one thing to note- when you power up a DOD pedal, the effect starts as ‘on’. you might be better off using a bypass box than re-housing it. you wouldn’t even need to touch the DOD’s switch.
changing the housing or adding a mechanical switch would be tough on a DOD pedal- the circuit board is beneath the stomp-pad, as opposed to the battery housing like on a boss stompbox.
yeah, that’s the best solution really, a bypass loop.
I’m a big fan of old dod pedals they made some excellent and unique pedals, the Punkifier is my favorite, it’s not going to be easy to change the switching though I’m afraid as the dod’s use an electronic switching system and EHX use a mechanical switch. what you would probably have to do is isolate the switching circuit on the PCB and make cuts in the traces and then wire the mechanical switch in the right places to the PCB, Not an easy job unless you know exactly what you are doing. I have replaced the switches in dod pedals before (with the same type) you can find them on ebay and they are pretty good for at least a few years of heavy use before they strat going a bit iffy.
I asked about it when I visited them in June. The costs to make the Russian pedals ROHS compliant were too high, so they discontinued the Russian pedals.
They were already not available in Europe for a while, I think they just sold the stock in the US.
Sorry for deviating from the topic. I heard somewhere that EH will do a survey how the nanos are selling and based on that they’ll again make some reissues of the discontinued ones, like big box small stone for instance. Any truth?
I can’t imagine they would need to do a survey to find out how their pedals are selling! and considering the amount of new pedals coming out over the last few years, I’d guess that they are selling very well….. I wouldn’t hold my breath for any reissues or big box pedals.
I think it’s just like running two separate drive pedals together, making them work just like normal volume controls.
The only things I’ve noticed different with the 44 magnum: Only 8 or 16 ohm, not 4 ohms (makes me sad, since both my cabs are 4 ohms!) The other thing is that it has twice the wattage.
the 22 can’t be used with 4ohm either…. it makes the amp cut out when you turn it up loud, they’ve changed the details to say 8-16ohm.
yeah, I was going to say ….. it all depends on what you mean by ‘run the out’ .. speaker outputs should only go to a speaker, line outputs can go to another amp no problem. If you have two inputs they will usually be bridged too and you can use the spare input as an output to another amp.
it’s almost impossible to value them because they just don’t come up on ebay, which is probably the best way to value everything else.
I’d expect you might get some PM’s about it soon.
if you just take the four screws out on the front and just carefully lift the top off everything will remain attatched to top half so you won’t damage anything, I’d love to see inside!
oh, that’s fantastic that you won it…. $500 is about £345 these days, I think I’d be happy with that price! … although, these will never go down in value so if you don’t need the money i’d hang onto it for another 10 years!
Hi Again,
I went to a store last week and the pedal worked pretty well with no issues at all. Sounded clean and worked fine with my Power Adaptor. I bought the cables and though that there was the problem (specially with the XLR/Jack that gave me a lot of problems)
Back home, again the noise.
I guess… I’m using a Huges&KEttner;100W Bass Amp and a Cheap 20W Aria Bass Amp. Maybe there’s the problem, right? I’m using bass amps. I guess I will have a try in one of my friends’ guitar amps and see if it works there (it should, because in the stor it did…)
well at least you have it working, running vocals into any amp intended for guitars or bass is not going to be ideal. I might be wrong but I’m thinking bass amps don’t have a lot of midrange, it’s usually all bass and treble running into a bass speaker and a horn or something like that.
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