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devnulljpParticipant
Yes, I thought the knobs on the middle one were non-original. The top and bottom right are the same muff though (same photo actually), and I’m pretty sure I’ve seen those knobs on other triangles, but I’m missing one…
I got a few regular muff knobs from Davies last year — the black dakaware ones w/ the pointer. Minimum order for a batch is 200 though, so it’s a bit excessive. I ended up buying a dozen at a markup from a guy in England (who presumably bought a few hundred and is selling them on).Thanks
devnulljpParticipantQuote:Thanks for the replies. To be frank, I’m not finding too much love for this version of the Muff…This description is it in a nut shell. I decided to seek out the “vintage” tone mentioned in the description above.You could always click that link in my sig if it’s vintage muff tones you’re after…
EDIT: Never mind. All gone.devnulljpParticipantI think Behringer dd a clone…or BBE or one of those companies too.
The Fromel is in production and sounds better, but it’s $300. I got one of his first ones when they were a bit cheaper.
http://www.fromelelectronics.com/pedals/SeraphEDIT: It was Behringer — CC300 Space-C — it’s $30 or so?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oYRyzJ0C8XA
You have to run these things in stereo though otherwise you lose the whole point. They sound huge in a stereo rig.devnulljpParticipant100K Linear right?
devnulljpParticipantIs it a new one or a vintage one? Post pics…
I’ve seen this with vintage muffs due to: dirty toggle switch, dried up electrolytics, knackered pots, bad footswitch.
They’re all easy fixes, which is nice.
If it’s a modern SMC one though…
Post pics.devnulljpParticipantWhat he said.
Synopsis
v1 is the triangle (although there are at least two major variants and a number of subspecies)
v2 is the ram’s head (again variants and subspecies): EH3003
v3 is the first red/black graphic, but still transistors: EH3003
v4 & 5 are op-amp based — v4 has on/off switch, v5 tone bypass — different boards inside: EH1322, EH3003, EH3003-B (later boards have green mask)
v6 transistor again 2N5088
EHX tanks
Sovteks
Return of EHX with your Fran muff followed by the recent RIs…devnulljpParticipantQuote:big muffs are supposed to be noisy when they are on and not playing anything.Not supposed to be — some are some aren’t . Quietest muffs I’ve got are a 74 lamb’s head and one triangle. Noisiest were 3034 and the tone wicker. But yes running the muff from its own power supply should help.
devnulljpParticipantQuote:I saw the title and thought he was interested in a trade! :nono:That’s a real addiction
AFAIK the case screws (at least on the old ones) are 4 x 1/4 PH PHL Self Tap screws 18-8 SS
Mouser has them
MSC part# 87923009
…or your local hardware store (but not mine apparently…I had to buy a bunch off ebay)devnulljpParticipantChasing my tail for a triangle Foxey Lady…and a FS30000 triangle too.
Ge Fuzzrite would be nice…devnulljpParticipantQuote:Quote:Quote:And what about the 1/128 quasihemidemisemiquaver?I’m not a shredder so I neither care about nor notice those…
Obviously. I mostly just posted that for the sake of absurdity.
I should have added:
devnulljpParticipantQuote:And what about the 1/128 quasihemidemisemiquaver?I’m not a shredder so I neither care about nor notice those…
EDIT:devnulljpParticipantQuote:Swapping the original muff IC’s=sacrilege IMO!Hey, I thought you were all for modding them, it’s just a tool right?
Quote:Vintage gear sentimentality is stoopid IMO, its there to be used and if you can make it better make it better.[/IMG]*I agree, just saying…
Sorry I edited your post (I didnt change anything) I was meant to hit the quote button.LOLdevnulljpParticipantQuote:i decided not to get it because swine flu really isnt tht bad except for really old people and really young people. and i have a pretty good immune system so i don’t think i’ll get it. and if i do, it probably wont be that bad. a few of my friends got it and they said it wasnt that bad and that they got better really quicklyActually not true — but never mind.
devnulljpParticipantQuote:Quote:whats bakelite? im guessing some better kind of plastic? are there any up-sides to lead-free solder?Bakelite was the first type of synthetic plastic ever made. It was used to make everything we make from normal plastic now from about 1910 to around the 1970’s. All the classic teles, strats and les pauls from the 50’s and 60’s had bakelite pickguards and knobs. Its called bakelite because you mold it and then bake it and it hardens and is then pretty much impossible to melt in normal operating conditions. They stopped using it because it was more expensive.
oh and the advantage of lead free solder is that it takes more heat to melt. Which is both its advantage and disadvantage depending on what you want to use it for.
Good synopsis. I hadn’t thought there would be people around that had never heard of bakelite…guess I’m getting old…
The pairing of high temp lead-free solder w/ bakelite is a no brainer. Best of both worlds. Shame they’re doing it with low-temperature-melting plastic.devnulljpParticipantQuote:Who cares if a muff is noisey when your not playing, you dont do gigs to not play or sit down with your rig to not play.All of these are hard to do if your gear is going WOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOSHHHHHHHHH!
That’s why I don’t like noisy muffs so much.
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