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devnulljpParticipant
Here it is on bass: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W4ZqbQQQbe0
Mr.Grim, I wonder if your pedal has a bunch of dead caps? have you changed the electrolytics?
Although it’snot an intense wah.
My fave is the Qtron though — does a pretty good Mutron.devnulljpParticipantQuote:They sound great with my rig. I don’t really want to flip them like I originally planned.I have that problem all the time too…
devnulljpParticipantThe Bee Gee is the forgotten ugly little sister of the Bee Baa AF-100 and the Double Beat AD-50. Less low end than the other two, or something truly evil like an AceTone FM2 or 3. More like a Tone Bendery kinda sound than the all out nuclear assault of its big sisters. That said, they do have a following and you scored pretty well: you got rid of that fugly guitar and got a 1977 Phase 45 and a BeeGee…
Excellent. Congratulations on a good find.devnulljpParticipantThat’s a hard one – are you using batteries or a power supply? (Did you try it just with a battery? Are you daisy chaining power? Are you using good quality cables? The muff is pretty high gain so any RF from crappy cables is going to get amplified…which isn’t the muff’s fault. When I was a kid, I had a badly shielded cheapie guitar and those cheapie nasty cables, and could get Radio Moscow at certain spots in my room).
Is it an old one or a new one? Have you cleaned the jacks?
Try shoving a 100pF cap on the board input or going from the input jack to ground…I’ve done that in wahs with success in the past.Read what analogman has to say here: http://www.analogman.com/faq.htm#rf
devnulljpParticipantReplacing the electrolytics in something that old wouldn’t hurt, especially if its been sitting unused for a while they can dry out. I’ve revived a few old muffs that way … it’ll take you 10 min and cost you a dollar. I’d give it a go.
devnulljpParticipantQuote:Oh, it had a broken trace at the input jack is all.Doh!
devnulljpParticipantYes it’s got the 1x10uF and 3x1uF that you like…
It’s the tightest sounding Mike’s Head I’ve heard yet. The PNPs are pretty unusual — this is the first I’ve seen in the flesh — although I know a guy with a triangle with PNP FS36000 trannies. Those can get pretty pricey.I was just surprised — went into it thinking it was an OK deal on a BC239C Mike’s Head, and I could probably flip it if I didn’t like it, and then this. Fantastic Muff.
devnulljpParticipantHere’s my latest — a CL find: Mike’s Head Big Muff.
I asked the guy for a gutshot, and got a blurry camera phone pic, so I thought it was just a mid 70s BC239C, but figured as I just sold my last one and it’s a good deal & in pretty good shape, I might as well snag it.
First thing I do is rip off the back to have a look…Hang on a minute…something not right about that wiring
Turns out to be a pretty rare 1976 PNP 2N5087 muff.
It’s a huge tight sounding muff, loads of clarity, loud and fantastic.Stoked!
[img]”http://i440.photobucket.com/albums/qq123/devnulljp/Fuzz/Big Muffs/v2-1976-pnp-ramhead/34221c66.jpg”[/img]
[img]”http://i440.photobucket.com/albums/qq123/devnulljp/Fuzz/Big Muffs/v2-1976-pnp-ramhead/9c38904a.jpg”[/img]
[img]”http://i440.photobucket.com/albums/qq123/devnulljp/Fuzz/Big Muffs/v2-1976-pnp-ramhead/bd8cb274.jpg”[/img]
[img]”http://i440.photobucket.com/albums/qq123/devnulljp/Fuzz/Big Muffs/v2-1976-pnp-ramhead/52f3be93.jpg”[/img]devnulljpParticipantNice Green Russian! (So, what was wrong with it in the guy wanted you to fix …?)
The flaky paint thing is really common with those. Dave Main of DAM has one that looks like it’s been in a war.Oh, and r/lam‘s head? I vote we start calling it the Mike’s Head Muff — it’s his nose for sure
devnulljpParticipantMeant to follow-up. That worked perfectly — thanks Ron!
devnulljpParticipantYes there is a noise floor in that pedal. Most high gain pedals have some sort of noise — it varies but my BMPTW is noisy. Does it go away any when you turn down the gain?
devnulljpParticipantDon’t you just love marketing people? The ad copy runs “Warm and organic, up to 550ms of vibrant analog echo rivals tape delay” I’m sure legally you can get up to 550 ms delay (but it’ll sound horrible; some restrictions may apply; see press for details; always consult your physician before embarking on any exercise program). Anyway, that’s my understanding of those chips and I may be totally off the mark. Ron or Howard would be the people to talk to, but it probably wouldn’t be a financially feasible idea to ship it to the US to one of those guys or analogman to mod. There must be someone in France that would do it for you though. If you are goign to play with the trimmers, mark them well before you start so you can reset it to the way it was before when it all goes horribly wrong…
devnulljpParticipantDMM has 4x MN3008 or 2x MN3005 chips for 8000 stages to get you up to 400 ms delay time, so I think what you’re hearing is normal. Futsing with the trimmers might squeeze out another bit of delay time but it will degrade your signal for sure and it can be hard to recalibrate properly without a scope. I have an old Tokai BBD delay here that someone messed with and it’s taken me ages of fiddling to get a semi-acceptable sound back out of it. If you want longer delay times, sell the DMM and buy something else like an analogue voiced digital delay.
devnulljpParticipantQuote:My muffs:
This ones in the mail: (got it in a trade yesterday…I’m uber ecstatic about it coming with the original box!!!)You crafty bugger — That’s one you owe me…
devnulljpParticipantQuote:this may be a dumb question but is the foxy lady guild pedal an ehx? or did mike mathews have somethin ot do with em?The first Guild Foxey Ladies were rebranded Mosrite Fuzzrites built by Ed Sanner, but Mosrite went under so Mike Matthew picked up the deal and Guild rebranded the Axis Fuzz, which was the first EHX pedal in 1968. When they developed the big muff, Guild rebranded those as the Foxey Lady, so there’s a triangle Foxey Lady (my white whale…) and a ram’s head FL, both of which are rebranded muffs. So yes the one on the left in my pic isn’t EHX, it’s a Mosrite. The other two are though. Ron and Kit both have loads of more accurate info on their sites though…
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