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devnulljpParticipant
Agree with Liberty. nowt wrong wi’ that case.
Replace that diode, hook up a battery clip, probably replace those electolytics (make sure you get them the right way round), and I’ll bet that thing will still sing.BTW, if you really want to know the year, carfully bend one of the pots back so you can see the back of it — there should be a number on it — 137#### — the first two ##s are the year (second two are the week).
[IMG]”http://i440.photobucket.com/albums/qq123/devnulljp/Fuzz/Big Muffs/v2-1976-pnp-ramhead/90625abf.jpg”[/IMG]devnulljpParticipantYour on-off switch is not wired up? You don’t have a battery snap?
Grab a ratshack batery snap and solder the red wire to the middle lug of the on/off slider switch and the black wire to the ground rail on the bottom right of the board down by the huge capacitor. Take it from thereEDIT: can you quickly reflow all those solder points that look like the solder’s been half removed?
What happens when you plug it in? Nothing/noise/quiet/no fuzz? (You’re using a proper 9V power supply right? It works?)
devnulljpParticipantQuote:trying to load these pics hmmmtick em up on photobucket or imgur or somewhere like that. Resized to 800×600, then paste the forum code in here. it looks like
Code:[IMG]http://i440.photobucket.com/albums/qq123/devnulljp/ui2ik6b768030dcviewattth1268a674d3f.jpg[/IMG]EDIT: Make sure there’s no spaces in your URL
devnulljpParticipantQuote:the other thing i notice is those square white thinks on the board are not on my board sorry to not know what they are? i have the round discs in place of them similar to whats on volume and tone pots of a stratocasterThey’re just capacitors — all the old muffs have different types. ceramic discs, electrolytics, those big square ones. It doesn’t really matter.
Your pedal is def worth saving.
Whatever’s wrong with it, it’s unlikely to take much to fix it. Often replacing the electrolytics will do the trick…or the switch. Those slider switches get grunged up quite often too. That’s a 5 min fix right there. Are you sure the transistors have been messed with ? They normally sit quite high off the board…
Those are great sounding muffs, it’d be a shame to leave it dead in the water.
Send it to Ron to fix up if you don’t make much headway…it’ll be worth it.devnulljpParticipant1976 v3 BC239C
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[IMG]”http://i440.photobucket.com/albums/qq123/devnulljp/Fuzz/Big Muffs/v3-1977-redblack/v3redblack_board_back_0003.jpg”[/IMG]1976 v2 PNP w/ 2N5087
[IMG]”http://i440.photobucket.com/albums/qq123/devnulljp/Fuzz/Big Muffs/v2-1976-pnp-ramhead/7f8e2a97.jpg”[/IMG]1977 v2 w/ BC239C
[IMG]”http://i440.photobucket.com/albums/qq123/devnulljp/Fuzz/Big Muffs/v2-1977-ramhead/v2ramhead_BC239C_3003_0025.jpg”[/IMG]devnulljpParticipantQuote:any idea what i have here?Like Kit said v3, ram’s head board with the red/black colours.
It doesn’t work? Post pics…it looks more like this inside
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Than this right?
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devnulljpParticipantBad Stone! (I wouldn’t say it sounds the same as a Small Stone though…)
Check this site for comparisons (with clips): http://www.pedalarea.com/phasers.htm
If you want really tweakable though, the MuTron Phasor II is fantastic. If you want modern, the Red Witch Moon Phaser is good.devnulljpParticipantQuote:Well I am in need of another Vintage russian Knob and there are no more. anyone have one or two they would sell?Paul.
Best bet it to trawl ebay for small stones, steal the knobs, and then sell it again minus the knob…
devnulljpParticipantQuote:Thanks for the advice guys!!! I did the solder across the cracked board and got it to work. Thanks for everyones help. I also noticed that I had purchased another IC (op amp) version and for some reason or another my older one has way more sustain …feedback and such than the newer one…..maybe the parts they do install on the boards makes a difference in the over all sound.Most obvious things are the pots and the electrolytics (if there are any on there?). I’d recap it anyway, it’s probably about due and take it from there.
Should be lots of sustain out of that thing.devnulljpParticipantI’ve seen a reduction in going rates for triangles and ram’s heads over the last year or so — it peaked at insane levels last summer w/ a bunch going for $800+ — I get the feeling someone’s playing Jack Waterson’s trick on ebay but can’t for the life of me figure out why.
I’m down to three triangles and three ram heads, one of which is a Guild.
I hope EHX does do the Ge Big Muff thing .. that’d be cool.
But lose the LED and hockey puck knobs. Hell, I’d like a tone wicker with real parts inside and less noise…devnulljpParticipantI sold four op-amp muffs in the last year and it took ages. You couldn’t give them away…
3034’s already got a cult following because of Mudhoney.
c’est la vieI just realised I don’t have any red/black muffs anymore.
With any luck, the OMFG Billy Corgan thing will take people’s eyes off the ram’s heads I like so much and I can start snagging them for less. See…silver lining.devnulljpParticipantIf all else buy another one. They’re not that expensive (they were cheaper before the OMFG Billy Corgan used an op-amp Big Muff!!!!! thing. last one I bought cost $90)
devnulljpParticipant3034 is a transistor muff — 2n5088s usually. The Mudhoney muff.
devnulljpParticipantAre you dasy chaining the power or something? If you have a mix of +ve and -ve ground that will kill it.
devnulljpParticipantWiring colour never seemed to be a major concern at EHX
Same with exact wiring specs.
I have some good pics of that board if you need them for your restoration just let me know what you need.BTW, for pics you can use http://imgur.com/ photobucket, imageshack, or any of the others.
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