Forum Replies Created
-
AuthorPosts
-
devnulljpParticipantQuote:Does anyone know if it’s possible to conect this pedal to an electricity plug?
i was very surprised to see that it has no electricity socket, and I just hate using batteries.Use one of these:
…and I’m sure that’s at least part of the reason so many battery doors get lost…
devnulljpParticipantQuote:he probably sold it on CL or something
I wonder how much he gotMe too. I just got one and I’d like to know if I paid too much…(or got a good deal…seemed OK to me).
devnulljpParticipantIf you want Daka-Ware for a vintage restoration though, Daka-Ware was the brand name for products produced by Davies Molding. Davies Molding is still going, and they do still make some parts you might find useful.
Looks like they still make these:
Control Knobs & Instrument Knobs
Pointer Control Knobs
Entire catalogue (PDF)I need a few of those D-shaft pointer knobs and a few round shaft too. Anyone dealt with Davies? Do I need to order a minimum order of 20,000 or something?
EDIT: Minimum order:100 pieces
Group purchase anybody?Anyone know if these ones from smallbear are D or round shaft?
Black Knurled Pointer
SKU: 0802
PRICE: $1.15 (10+ $1.05) (25+ $1.00) (50+ $0.95) (100+ $0.93) (250+ $0.90) (500+ $0.85) (1000+ $0.80)
Black Knurled Pointer, White Index
SKU: 0803A beautiful classic knob, used on Way Huge and others, with set screw.
PRICE: $1.55 (10+ $1.45) (25+ $1.35) (50+ $1.25) (100+ $1.10) (250+ $1.05)
devnulljpParticipantThanks for the info. I’ve found a few Q-trons and the only difference I can see is the knobs. Just wondering how many iterations of the plain vanilla Q-tron there is and if there are significant differences btwn them.
How’s the old Dr Q ? Isn’t that a Q-tron with a fixed depth?
EDIT: Thanks for the info. Pulled the trigger on one.
devnulljpParticipantWow, that’s a good score. I’ve come close a couple of times to CL scores like that but either been beaten to the punch or the seller does a quick google and finds out what they’ve got and the price goes up.
FWIW, I think you should be able to use a battery with it. All those old EHX pedals had to be taken apart to get to the battery clip (at least it meant there were no lost battery doors). (You could always go back to your seller and get the power supply The PP2 and onespot come with adapters for those pedals too).
Some good info here: http://www.pedalarea.com/small_stone.htmAnd sometimes the popping switch thing can be fixed by just raising the switch a touch, or sticking a pulldown resistor on the input.
devnulljpParticipantQuote:all those fuzz faces!! Theres too many of them :doh: , i could never have that many of one pedalI think it was some kind of a deal where they were searching for the one…I don’t think they’re all his.
He says the screw kills the tone, so he holds the FF case closed with rubber bands.
Did someone already post the J Mascis Big Muff Extravaganza? Although I guess it’s not a board so technically it’s cheatingAlways reminded me of the….
devnulljpParticipantQuote:Quote:it looks like a train,
I’m really intrigued by this thing :poke:Me too — I’d love one. Looks like you could move in and live in it too. There must be room in there for a sofa and a coffee pot at least. I lived in Japan for a long time and some of my apartments weren’t that big…
devnulljpParticipantQuote:Quote:Use this diagram, make all the changes in green. This is a NYC muff with a green sovtek muff tonestack.
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o127/truthandshame/Big Muff/GREENRUSSIANXNYCBIGMUFFMODS.pngOn the diagram, “R” is for Ohms and “uF” is for microfarads.
Hello, I own a Lil’ Big Muff and use it on my bass. I recently tried out the Bass Big Muff and before I had tried the Russian version. To be honest I really don’t like the was Russians sound on bass and since the Bass Big Muff is based on that one I didn’t buy it
So, I’m trying to mod my Lil’ BM to lat the clean signal go through mixed with the fuzz, but I can’t seem to find a diagram (Nor a way, for that matter) to do that.
Does anyone have any idea of what can I do to get that specific mod? A diagram or spoken word reply would be incredibly appreciatedGo get one of these Barge Concepts VB-Jr— it will save you endless pain in the long run.
Xotic make a looper with blend too, but it’s bigger and more expensive. SolidgoldFX make one too, but I haven’t tried it.
I got a VB-Jr for $60 used and have used it with a guitar mixing in a fuzztone. Works great and you won’t burn your fingers soldering…
devnulljpParticipantQuote:Quote:Quote:*Which is is BTW? Ram’s / Lamb’s ? Neither makes much sense anyway, I don’t see any sheep on the pedal. Where did that come from?
(What is that little face thing supposed to be anyway?)I thought it was called a Ram’s Head for the logo…i heard a story about someone drawing it and then them just slapping it on as a logo without having any idea what the gremlin thing was so they called it a ram’s head….gotta love electro harmonix legends!
I always kinda thought it looked like Mike Matthews
devnulljpParticipantQuote:I finally got around to trying your suggestion Ned, but no luck. It still pops the same way it always has. It only pops when turned on and not when turned off. I used the exact resistors you recommended and cleanly soldered them onto the exact points you said and still nothing. Is it possible I need a new switch like some here have suggested?I’ve had a couple of wah pedals that popped loudly when engaged–one so badly I almost chucked it out. After lots of futsing around with nothing working, I found that raising the switch a bit worked. It’s an easy thing to try: if it works, great; if not, it’s no big loss. (I know, it’s homeopathy for your pedals now…sorry).
Try it and see? Most it will cost you is 10 minutes of your time. After that, I’d try a new switch. I’ve seen schems wit ha pulldown resistor on the switch itself too. My DAM RamHead muff clone has a resistor on the sustain potI’m sure there’s a good reason for.devnulljpParticipantMy main guitar is an ES-335…second fiddle is an old Silvertone. Don’t own a Fender — never have (Used to have a few old Tokai Strats though). I’d like a Jazzmaster or maybe a tele but it’s not high on the list.
Board always has a vintage muff of some sort and a 70s small stone. Sounds great.devnulljpParticipantIt’s a Morley EVO-1 Echo Volume
See DiscoFreq for more info
devnulljpParticipantQuote:eric johnson’s echo toysHere’s another pic of Eric Johnson’s board from a different tour still with the DMM on it.
And one of my favourites — the fuzzface challenge. Always reminded me of the tribbles from star trek though.
THis one is David Gilmour’s from the Animals tour, with an Electric Mistress and a Big Muff.
Oh, and Kevin Shields’ board is insane.
devnulljpParticipantQuote:Quote:I’ve found Small Bear Electronics a good source for parts for old EH pedals.
Guitar pedal design engineering, repairs, and custom mods:
http://howard.davis2.home.att.net/Not for vintage D-shaft pots.
Ron, do you have a source for those? I’ve been looking for some replacement knobs for my old Big Muff and have run into a brick wall as far as those for D-shaft pots.
March 29, 2009 at 11:32 am in reply to: Vintage EHX that you can still find for a good price. #95021devnulljpParticipantI just got this little thing for $40…shipped.
It’s a tad noisy, and has some of the worst soldering inside I’ve ever seen but I’m digging the sound and it’s cute.
It’s an IC based circuit from the later 70s (I think). Not as aggressive as a big muff, but still plenty of sustain.Any suggestions to tame the noise a bit?
-
AuthorPosts