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devnulljpParticipant
Can’t help with the chip, but here’s a schematic
This one is from GGGdevnulljpParticipantQuote:Hi, I have an old Deluxe Memory Man for repair, I would like to know, what choice I can get, for change the MN3005 chip because this chip is unfoundable or very expensive… so what alternative Chip can be used or what is the chip on the actual Memory Man Deluxe.
Thanks a lot for your helpI vaguely remember Future Music in LA having a stack of NOS BBD chips — I think they were 3005s with some clock chips sold in pairs — on their ebay store a while back, and they weren’t very expensive. Check on ebay, username futchamusic
(No affiliation; I just bought some stuff from him a while back and was happy with the deal)
BTW, anyone else think having Howard Davis labelled as a Newbie is excessively weird?
Isn’t this a bit more appropriate?Quote:EDIT: Looks like there’s some noise about a group buy of those chips over on FSB, you might want to get in on?
devnulljpParticipantIf that doesn’t work, here’s some more good info to really track down the problem.
http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=43035.msg311544#msg311544
http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=38789.msg275394#msg275394devnulljpParticipantQuote:A good gain range is 600+ for all four Q’s. This is pretty standard in 5088’s so youl be keeping it much the same as it already is. 70-100 is ok for germanium fuzz faces (I like around 200+) but wont be much good in a big muff.600! Holy cow. That x4 of them explains all the gain
Thanks for the info.devnulljpParticipantQuote:Remember to put the highest gain transistor in Q1 for best results as this stage sets the overall gain.What’s a good gain range — 70–100 hfe or so like a FF or higher?
Are the 3034 muffs just quite noisy anyway? I saw blondegraemey’s vintage muff shootout on youtube and that’s kinda what he suggested; I’ve heard that elsewhere too, and it’s certainly true of mine. The switch is a bit flaky too, don’t suppose that’s contributing to the background noise?devnulljpParticipantQuote:Quote:Did you try raising the switch a couple of turns?
Really, I’ve cured pop in a few vintage pedals that way.How do you do that?
thanks
Loosen the nut on the top of the switch. Once the nut is loose enough, adjust the inner nut on the switch on the inside of the pedal. Turn the nut in 1/4 to 1/2 turns ONLY. A little goes a long way. Raise the switch action by lowering (closer to the switch body) the round nut. Finger tighten the top hex nut and try it out. Repeat until you get it perfect for what you want. Some switches have little plastic washers — removing one of them will also raise the switch.
It might work and it’s an free and easy fix to try before getting into other things.devnulljpParticipantCan’t you just replace the LED? It’s a $0.20 part at ratshack.
Is it still wired up properly? Switch is still working OK?devnulljpParticipantThank you! That looks about right.
I’m going to get the old soldering iron out right now and try it.
EDIT: It worked. So for future reference.EHX Q-Tron LED mod
Stock, the LED is a power on indicator only — not an effect on indicator. To make the LED light only when the effect is on:
1. desolder the black wire coming from the LED at the top right corner of the board (2nd pad in).2. With the switch labelled like this (lugs 7 and 9 are jumpered together):
1 2 3
4 5 6
7 8 9
|____|Solder the free end of that black wire from the LED to lug #5.
3. Add a new wire from the pad on the board that the black wire was connected to, to lug #2 on the switch.
devnulljpParticipantDid you try raising the switch a couple of turns?
Really, I’ve cured pop in a few vintage pedals that way.devnulljpParticipantQuote:The screw is nothing to worry about, it was just an old method for grounding. I’ve had some pedals that ran a wire to the backplate but most of them ground underneath the circuit board now (if I’m not mistaken).EHX started making their pedals true bypass a little while ago, and shortly before that they started shipping all of their pedals with 3PDT switches so that we could TB mod them ourselves – should we so desire, of course.
All that aside, what do you think of it? It’s a fun little (big) box, hey?
Thanks for the info. It is a fun box…it totally changes the way you play. Just for fun, I ran an octave multiplexer in front of it, and couldn’t help but play some Bootsy.
I’m trying to decipher the switch layout to wire the LED as an on/off indicator rather than just a power indicator, which would be more useful.
Here’s the switch (same orientation as the full pic above):
Labelled like this:
1 2 3
4 5 6
7 8 9
|____|#1 goes to the circuit board
#4 is the input (?)
#7 & #9 are jumpered together
#3 goes to the circuit board
#6 is the outputThe info I found is this but it’s a bit ambiguous — can anyone clarify?:
“To get the LED to only come on when the effect is on, splice into the LED’s ground (black) wire, solder the wire coming from the circuit boardto #2, and the wire going to the LED to #5. “devnulljpParticipantQuote:Resistor Mod for Big Muff Pi.I know most people increase the resistors as part of the Creamy Dreamy mod. Does anybody know what value to replace them with? Thanks,
Here’s good list of resistor values for different Muff versions from the BYOC cloners http://www.bmfeffects.com/byoc_large_beaver_mods.htm
devnulljpParticipantdevnulljpParticipantQuote:Just any old 2N5088 will be fine. Wouldn’t hurt to at least change the electrolytic caps out.Thank you Ron! I posted this over on TGP and, apart from the sane voice of Analog Mike, got a raft of OMG IT’s FULL OF MOJO DON’T TOUCH IT responses claiming you need NOS 2N5088 stuffed with faerie dust.
So I can just buy a handful of any old 2N5088 from small bear and not worry about values or anything?
ThanksdevnulljpParticipantAnyone know what values I want on the transistors in there? They’re S2N5088, which I can get at Small Bear right?
Or should I go for low noise 2N5089 (I can get a bunch of 30 over on diystompboxes)
Also, I’m guessing the electrolytics will probably like to be replaced — good idea?
Effects connection has 2N5088s in batches of 10 — what %age would be usable?
devnulljpParticipantQuote:Who’s face is that on the pedal?
Had a later bad stone on loan for a few weeks,
I thought it knocked my stone for six.Don’t know — I’ve always just heard it referred to as the “zombie face”. I always thought the Lamb’s Head looks like Mike Matthews…maybe this is Mike looking rough in the morning after a night on the town?
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