I swapped out the electrolytic and it made no difference. One thing I noticed though, if I touch my finger to the leg of the 470k resistor running off the op-amp the buzz drops to tolerable. Sound like I’m just grounding something or bridging something? Stray DC running to out?
I’m not convinced that resistor is in the right place from the schem but I’m not certain.
In the pic above, the op-amp pins are ?:
1—8
2—7
3—6
4—5
The schem has a 470k resistor bridging pins 6<-->7.
The hard and fast rule is always everything before everything else…at least that’s how it seems.
Rangemaster-type treble boosters always come first in the chain, as do fuzz, wah, and compressor. I have so many ‘must come first’ pedals it’s not funny. Wahs always seem to mess up everything too. Then of course you need a buffer between your wah and fuzz for impedance matching.
There are days when I think John Lee Hooker had the right approach to using pedals (i.e., don’t).
Quote:
* Wah before fuzz?: A fuzz + wah needs a buffer to work with better results. I only have the simplest Crybaby model, without any mod, so in this case, wah operates better placed before fuzz or distortion. If wah wis True Bypass, it should be put after instead.
I don’t think that’strue at all. You run an unbuffered wah before a Si fuzz all you’ll get is a lot of squealing (listen to All Along the Watchtower on Jimi Hendrix Blue Wild Angel: Live at the Isle of Wight — that’s an unbuffered rybaby into a Si fuzz face). Before a Ge fuzz, you’ll probably not get much wah at all and a wimpy fuzz. The impedance loading is all wrong. If the wah is true bypass, it shouldn’t matter where it goes when it’s off, and when on it’s immaterial so I don’t understand the reasoning for that part above.
The Big Muff seems quite forgiving in this area though, certainly more than a fuzzface.
And I like my tuner out of the chain, so it goes in one channel of an A/B box which doubles up as a mute switch (I used to use a switchblade for that, but i was too noisy).
how about a leslie sim? It could be a treadle style with maybe two switches, a bypass and a ‘brake’ that can ramp up or down. Or the bypass and brake switches on a box, maybe some tone and rate controls. The rate switch would control how quickly the ramp goes up/down.
EH could do some cool tone controls, maybe a para eq, and a gain to really dial in the tone.
Does the Wiggler have an expression pedal in? Shame if it doesn’t — that’d get you close no?
What about the horrible day that all of the vintage units are either owned by someone with no intention of selling them, or broken beyong repair? EHX better have some vintage reissues comming my way…
Ach, just go see EHX Man at Ronsound — he’ll fix it for you
From an aesthetic standpoint, I like the big boxes better. But from a utilitarian standpoint, I’m all about the XOs.
Yup! I have a trunkload of the nice big old vintage EHX pedals, but I’m working on a smaller utilitarian pedalboard with a bunch of XO or clones as replacements too. The nano Small Stone sounds really good — stands up close to a vintage one IMO — the Tone Wicker is a surprisingly good muff (if only it wasn’t so damn noisy!)…
Still gassing for a vintage DMM though.
I can’t seem to make it my avatar. I resized it to make it like 100X100 pixles and when i clicked upload avatar, it stays the same avatar that i alrady had. Can someone please help!
Refresh the page (Control+R [Command-R on a Mac])?
is there somewhere that we can download the vector files of the ehx logo, ram’s head and pedal logos?
The electro-harmonix logo font is called ATSkjald
The red box big muff logo is Pioneer
The Lamb’s head logo font is Medusa
Then there’s the face
Make em yourself?
And call me anal but volume drop is definitely an issue when you step on a pedal during a solo. A booster can solve that if you have three feet but I only have two. Of course, all that’s down to taste and there’s no use arguing about it
Just mod the pedal. It’s a 10 minute fix — no more volume drop.
Depending on which version you have, it’s a couple of resistor value changes.
There’s info about the mod here for the v3 I think.
I found some info here that talks about my v.2 — issue J — and a schematic
I also posted some pics here after wrestling with the same question for mine.
What’s the one back-right in the second pic?
Looks like a 3034 but no tone bypass switch or NYC RI but no LED?
Where do you find all these triangles and ram heads ? Jealous!
:thumb:
Green Russian Big Muff or maybe a Superfuzz of some sort would do you.
Original Superfuzz can be expensive but there are lots of decent clones.
Or an Ibanez Standard Fuzz circuit (hunt out an old Mica/Bruno/Ibanez fuzz-wau) if you want a bit of an octave to it but less insane than a Fender Blender.
Although the Tone Wicker is a great sounding versatile muff…although I find mine a bit noisy, I doubt it would be a problem for shoegazer stoner stuff.
D*A*M Meathead is also a good, but expensive and hard to come by option…the Slomatics guys use those.
nope didn’t get it. SO MAD!!! it was sold to someone else. dammit.
Not surprised at that price. I have one of the IC versions and it’s great. It is a full size BMP board with the tone fixed — there’s a resistor soldered across the tone pot pads. Mine’s the 1322 board.
Discofreq, if you want pics of mine I’ll get em to you.
I don’t have any good gut shots yet, so if you can make some of those that would be great
Lots of hard rockers use flangers — early Van Halen (And the Cradle Will Rock for one) and Dinosaur Jr as two disparate examples…
Listen to Dio…I always think of Vivian Campbell doing that chug-chugga-chug-chugga CHUG! CHUG! 80s metal thing with a flanger sweeping over it — I hate it but lots of people seem to like it.