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November 5, 2009 at 6:19 am in reply to: Please stop the power adapter follies! I guarantee we’ll EHX buy nonstop #103365devnulljpParticipantdevnulljpParticipant
Must be nice to be so rich you never ever have to sell anything … and the odd time you do, you’re so flush with $$$$ you’re happy taking a major depreciation hit
Wish I could find that clip of Jack Waterson on Fuzz, the Sound that Changed the World…I have a multichannel bypass looper mainly because I can’t be bothered modding every vintage pedal that I come across — it’s cheaper, easier, and I can still sell gear on to collectors at a profit…so I can buy more… Win!
devnulljpParticipantQuote:Vintage gear sentimentality is stoopid IMO, its there to be used and if you can make it better make it better.[/IMG]Take something you can sell for $150, spend $25 on parts and an hour or so of your life (if you’re not very experienced at modding that is) to turn it into something you can maybe sell later for $50…or sell it now for $150, go buy the thing you really want for $80 pocket the difference and spend an extra hour in bed or playing your guitar. Seems like a no-brainer to me
devnulljpParticipantQuote:2N5088 and 2N5087 are the best transistors u can find or put on a bigmuff…2N5087s are PNP, as are FS37000s (are they rebranded 2N5087s…?) and those muffs are pretty rare.
Anyone here got one? Seen one? (that’s original)…devnulljpParticipantQuote:Also another thing people delude themself with is that the so called FS36999 is FAR superior than the 2N5088, fact is it IS a 2N5088.I thought they were rebranded Fairchild 2N5133s?
And yes the 1uF triangle is bassier than the 0.1uF, closer to a Jumbo Tonebender in sound if you ask me (once I fixed the one dried up cap). With humbuckers though, I’m liking one of my 0.1uF triangles better than the others. I really liked the one v3 I had with BC239Cs too…
devnulljpParticipantSell it for a profit (or sell it cheap to me and buy something that’s already what you want with TB and with an AC tap rather than hack it up.
devnulljpParticipantYes, I posted this the other day the other day. I have (or rather had; just sold both) both a v3 and a v4, and with the pots in that position, the sustain is at minimum on the v3 (which is a 3003 Ram’s Head inside) but max on the IC muff.
Here’s a pic of three of my muffs with all pots set to zero — the one in the middle is the v3 3003 w/ BC239Cs
You’ll notice, no AC at the top, although it did have an AC tap. The pic on Ron’s page has a v3 3003 with the “AC”All pots set to min:
All pots set to max:
L-R: v2 Lamb’s Head FS36999 (2N5088) 3003 | v3 red/black BC239C | 3034 v6 S2N5088 (tone bypass)
Here’s three IC muffs:
[IMG]”http://i440.photobucket.com/albums/qq123/devnulljp/Fuzz/Big Muffs/d8be2604.jpg”[/IMG]
L-R: v4 EH-3003B (1977) On/Off switch | v5 EH-3003 (1980) Tone Bypass switch | v5 EH1322 (1981) Tone Bypass switch
All have the “AC” on top.Here’s just the v4 EH3003B IC on/off
[IMG]”http://i440.photobucket.com/albums/qq123/devnulljp/Fuzz/Big Muffs/f2edbc60.jpg”[/IMG]Unless of course he’s taking the piss (very high possibility), or it’s something else inside that case, that could be a v4 IC Muff like the one above. The pic on Ron’s site of a v3 in that same box suggests it could still be a v3, although the pot positions don’t fit.
Why did this have to come out the week after I sold mine?
devnulljpParticipantCould be wrong, but I can’t imagine why that would cause any problems. Lots of people stack ODs / boosts / fuzzes. Worst you’ll usually do is it’ll just sound like mush, but I think the MM has plenty of headroom…
devnulljpParticipantQuote:…and could find a singer with a huge ego…There’s no shortage of those.
devnulljpParticipantQuote:What is the story on the brown and yellow one and the blue one?Brown & Yellow is a 1977 IC-based Little Big Muff — it’s a EH1322 board in a smaller box with resistors across the Sustain and Tone pot pads leaving only one operational pot — the volume.
The blue one is a D*A*M Ram Head — it’s a boutique lamb’s head clone from a superstar builder in Yorkshire in the UK. Small box because it’s one of a limited run done on PCBs instead of perf board.devnulljpParticipantThis one was the worst — it was pretty much wire and dust.
devnulljpParticipantCaps were toast (crumbled when I touched them). Replaced with the same values and it’s all good.
CheersdevnulljpParticipantQuote:build one out of something transparent like acrylic. that’d look amazing.Not convinced that would sound OK though … no RF shielding from perspex.
devnulljpParticipantThanks for the replies guys. Although whether muffs with 1 or .1uF caps do or don’t sound good is beside the point here, as this muff doesn’t sound that great…certainly not as great as it should sound…and has been butchered in its day. I’d like to return it to whatever former glory it once had. It should sound fekking great, but it doesn’t. Those caps looked like the most obvious choice for parts that might be responsible for the poor sound. Apparently I’m wrong, which still leaves me with a bad sounding muff I’d like to get working properly.
EDIT: I doubt if it’s stock. It’s got shielded cable and a crappy cheap modern 3PDT switch. It’s definitely been hacked together. One of the drawbackss of ebay…
devnulljpParticipantQuote:That “idiot” you refer to is the factory employee that assembled your pedal. Those are original caps and contrary to what any of the so-called “Big Muff gurus” might say, 1uf caps were used in early 70’s Big Muffs as well. I have one with 1uf caps (and have personally repaired others) and I far prefer it to any of the .1 cap units.
There are also at least 3 resistors different in your “dodgy” pedal. Oh no!!! Better replace them so it matches the “good” one, too!As I’ve said for years, there is NO one schematic that will match all Big Muffs. They used whatever they had on hand at the time that would work. That is what adds to the beauty and mystery.
I’d replace the caps with new 1uf caps as they are probably leaky after 30+ years of use. I’ve seen them go bad in later Big Muffs. They’ll definitely play havoc with the sound if leaking.
Really? It’s stock? The whole thing looks to have been banged together by someone in a hurry, and it doesn’t sound good at all (which is why I compared it with the other one, which sounds great; it’s also why I called it dodgy, It sounds like a big wet blanket over the speaker, and has no volume to speak of. This is the one I was planning to send you to repair but it looked like I’d figured out why it sounds so bad. back to the drawing board I guess. I’ll pop it in the mail to you to have a look at).
Those 1uF electrolytic caps look a lot newer than anything else on that board too. I figured the guy I bought it off had just shoved in whatever he could find lying around to get a signal and then punted it.
The pots aren’t original either (they’re just standard pots jerry rigged onto the board). Neither is the wiring. Or the switch. I don’t think it’s a stretch to think some caps are non-original either considering how much else of the pedal has been munged. -
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