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devnulljpParticipantQuote:Sorry to hear the pots on your Soul Food are causing trouble. We updated quality of the pots about 8 months ago. When did you purchase your Soul Food or if you bought used, any idea when it was first purchased?
Can’t remember exactly when I bought it but it’s way more than 8 months old .. a good couple of years at least. Serial# begins with 2014, which I’m guessing is the year?
SN: 201410232247Glad to hear these pots are no longer in use.
Got a source or specs/part #s for the new ones?devnulljpParticipantNever mind, I found the pots on Smallbear : http://smallbear-electronics.mybigcommerce.com/potentiometer-cts-slide-for-old-micro-synth/
And this thread on Talkbass for the switch thing: https://www.talkbass.com/threads/ehx-bass-micro-synth-diy-true-bypass-mod.315187/#post-5112451
devnulljpParticipantYou sure your amps are in phase?
devnulljpParticipantI’ve never seen one in a full size muff.
Seen plenty of Muff boards in Little BMPs though…devnulljpParticipantI bet that little on/off switch is toast.
Spray some deoxit in it and work it a bit and see if that helps any.
(Open up and spray down the inside to clean the gunk off the contacts inside the switch.)
Or replace it.There are a bunch of different versions of those — some with transistors, some with op-amps.
devnulljpParticipantYou sure what you have isn’t a Muff Fuzz, not a Big Muff?
devnulljpParticipantI have one of those — BC239C transistors and 1977 pot codes.
Post pics of yours?
devnulljpParticipantClean that slider switch before you do anything else. It’s a 5 min fix, and costs essentially nothing. I’ve revived a few old pedals wit ha shot of deoxit in thoe switches.
Same with the pot.devnulljpParticipantHave you tried just shoving a boost into it? Something like a Rangemaster or even an LPB-2?
My guess is you’re just getting mush from driving it too hard. What kind of speaker ?devnulljpParticipantThen it goes to the middle lug of the switch (providing it’s standard NPN that is: FS36999/2n5133/2n5088 trannies, black wire goes to ground).
You can run it straight to the switch or via that pad on the 3003 board. Doesn’t make any difference (AFAIK).[img]”http://www.kitrae.net/music/1974 V2 with batt clip replaced.jpg”[/img]
If it’s a triangle, wire it like this (same deal)
[img]”http://www.kitrae.net/music/Triangle Muff PCB.jpg”[/img]
devnulljpParticipantEvery one I’ve ever seen with that yellow board has had 1977 pot codes.
137YYWW, where YY = last 2 digits of year
Kit’s on the money as usualdevnulljpParticipantKinda depends on which version it is. Can you post a gutshot?
If it has a power supply jack, the red wire would usually go there.
like this for a v3 EH3003
[img]”http://www.kitrae.net/music/Version 3 board c.jpg”[/img]devnulljpParticipanthe does it now with a Q-Tron
Bassballs will get you close too
Esp if you run some dirt in front of it.devnulljpParticipantdevnulljpParticipantThat’s an Issue J board isn’t it? I posted a howto for the volume drop fix a while ago. Search should find it.
Nice phaser. -
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