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CryabetesParticipant
the signal pad really is that simple (although you’d probably lose out on the LED indicator, maybe) but the main thing you’d want to watch out for is the resistance of the rate (or, now attenuation) pot – it’s a 1M ohm pot, meaning the last quarter to eighth of the travel on the knob would be silence.
One other thing you’d want to watch for is the nano clone is all surface mount components, which’ll be a bit more tricky to work with.
September 21, 2012 at 3:17 pm in reply to: Help! My DMM Tap Tempo/1100 can’t use Boss Ev-5, why? #118167CryabetesParticipantEHX recommends the M-Audio expression pedals for their products. There’s pretty mixed results with other expression pedals – different manufacturers have different specifications and what have you. If you’re handy with a soldering iron, you can add your own minimum setting pot.
CryabetesParticipantyou’ll want the EXT CLOCK and QUANTIZE buttons both pressed. After that, it’s more if your clock source (in your case the 606) puts out a stable enough time code.
Best of luck.CryabetesParticipantI don’t think the L6 adapter is necessary – just the polarity reversal adapter. I don’t use a L6 adapter, for what it’s worth.
CryabetesParticipantcheck your panning – centered should be half the volume of hardpanned. I’ve also found it helpful to have a volume pedal on the output jack you’re using for on-the-fly adjustments.
CryabetesParticipantThe Dry Out connection should be the uncompressed/uneffected signal. It’s typically hardwired to the input jack anyways, so the y-cable thing probably isn’t going to do much.
And don’t take the view count too seriously, there’s a lot of bots here, and a lot of us only board on weekdays.
CryabetesParticipantHey
just wanted to let you know that if you need a replacement and have a 9v Onespot laying around, it’ll work if you get one of the polarity reversal adapters. My adapter cord got sheared off and I needed a quick fix for it, tried that and success.CryabetesParticipant…it’s just amplitude man. if you run it off an FX send, you can control the amplitude levels being sent to it and actually run it back into the board with an open channel and the dry signal off for better mixing control. That’s what I do.
CryabetesParticipantins – they work better for guitar. I run a mixer before mine so I can use my synth/drum machine/mics/etc. You won’t damage the unit but it will distort. Said distortion sounds really quite good on drum samples, guitar.
and yes, the output can go directly to amps.
CryabetesParticipantstomp switch = bypass switch (it’s a bypass because it’s not cutting off power to the electro-guts of the pedal, but instead basically changing the wiring so the signal isn’t being taken from the electro-guts output). Do you use batteries or an ACDC adapter for your pedals?
CryabetesParticipantdoes the pedal allow signal while it’s bypassed?
CryabetesParticipantyeah. programming on things that don’t have a very good interface really makes you appreciate the ones that do.
CryabetesParticipantlooks like it; Here’s the user manual for the midi moose– check page two for how to setup which program numbers it is sending, and here’s the user manual for the 2880 – page 27 tells which program numbers to use for each operation.
CryabetesParticipantyep. Either the A <-> A+B (or B <-> A+
or the byp <-> A+B modes will do that for you. The A & B knobs are the volume for the return. It’s easily the most handy utility pedal I’ve ever owned.CryabetesParticipantyou’d need a buffered mixer to recombine them. You can get both out of a Boss LS-2. Otherwise, any small powered mixer will do (Behringer UB502, etc) – just be sure you aren’t overloading it.
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or the byp <-> A+B modes will do that for you. The A & B knobs are the volume for the return. It’s easily the most handy utility pedal I’ve ever owned.
