Mine syncs fine to my sequencer as long as I don’t do dumb things like monkey with tempos mid-song (not really a problem). Did you have Quantize on when you tried to sync yours to your synth/ableton? I don’t really know why they didn’t make quantization the default when using the external clock, I can’t really picture a good reason for not quantizing to the nearest bar when using an outboard clock. Also, did you have ASIO as your sound driver when using Ableton? I know that can cause problems if you’re using … basically anything else. What synth were you using? Were you using the 2880 as the master clock or slaving it to the synth’s tempo? Also with the ableton setup, were you at all able to sync it to the external clock? What model keyboard were you using?

As for me, I’m Sam, just a musician that saved up four hundo and bought one, not associated with EHX any further than these forums. Whereas Ron / Bart / Kitrae / Melx / Fender&EHX4Ever; take care of most of the other pedals, I’m fairly specialized in debugging the headaches the 2880 can cause. I’m also terrible with a soldering iron. I’m totally the kid that takes his toys apart and cries when they don’t fit back together. My music’s pretty alright though.

very damn cool. although it’d probably be more accurate to use a bitcrusher, don’tcha think? Say, when’s EHX gonna make one of those? Maybe license the design from the guy that does the Wrong Side of Uranus pedal and put in the POG2/Talking Machine preset system.

The settings are right and the outs/ins sound correct.
you should have EXT CLOCK and QUANTIZE selected prior to starting a drum pattern though.
the click LED should then sync with the 606’s tempo.
Try to time the button press for NEW LOOP with the start of a new cycle through the pattern.
Likewise with RECORD
Then press PLAY to when done recording (or timing out the loops)
If you’re just timing out the loops (which I’d recommend for general testing) try pressing PLAY slightly before the start/end point of a cycle. I’m not familiar with the 606, but on the electribes I use, I generally aim for step 13 of 16 (beat 3 of 4). The QUANTIZE LED should blink rapidly until the start of a new cycle. Hope this helps.

alright
so here’s a signal diagram. You could make it like this with two A/Bs, 2 Y-cables and a few patch cables. Each of the stacks of 3 boxes is one AB switch, each circled plus is a Y-cable. It’s probably a bit messy.

personally, I’d remake it in a breakout box. you’ll need 8x 1/4″ jacks, 1 enclosure, 1 DPDT stomp switch and some wire. If you want to make it powered, you’ll need an LED, a resistor for said LED, and to change out the DPDT for a 3PDT switch.

If you were going to be building it inside the superego enclosure, you’d need a fair bit of room and probably a surface mount soldering station.

edit: herp, I mixed up where the send and return jacks are on the S.E. for those pictures – in the diagrams above, consider the jack above the output the ‘send’ and the jack above the input the ‘return’. Apparently I also mixed up the direction signals go into the chorus/M.Pog as well.

you could get two cathedrals and run them in parallel, alternating which you’re infinite-sustaining on so you don’t activate the tap tempo.

From a more budget minded perspective, have you considered any of the old digital delay pedals like the DOD DFX9 (digital delay)/DOD DFX91 (or DFX94) digital delay/sampler, or even a Digitech RDS rack? setting the repeat rate really short and putting one of these in ‘repeat hold’ mode is pretty similar to the freeze (and can arguably be called the predecessor to the grain synth technology of the Freeze/SuperEgo.)

Basically you’d be making super short loops – maybe 12-20ms – and tapping them again to turn the loops off (they’ll die off in accordance with where your “repeats” knob is – more repeats, longer fades). These can be picked up for around $40-120USD on ebay. The RDS racks, you’d need separate footswitches for on/off and repeat hold, but you’d also have the option of using momentary footswitches, which would be nearly identical to the freeze’s non-latch modes. This is what I use my DFX9 on my synth for (that and quickly changing the release value for when I need longer string fills.) The cheaper models of the RDS units are going to be the 900, the 1900, the 3.6, and the 1.8.

you could always replace the switch and that should fix the problem – switches do wear out (or not all of the pulls change), which would result in a scenario like the one you describe. If you aren’t familiar with soldering, I’d suggest buying parts to make a couple bypass or mute pedals to build your skills a little first. It’s a very worthwhile skill to have for music, and fairly easy to learn for simple soldering jobs like changing out switches.

If you aren’t comfortable with that or don’t want to learn, take it (or send it) to a tech, it should be a fairly easy (and cheap) operation, maybe $5-10USD in parts and $10-20USD labor.

sick of all these single loop/overdubs with undo loopers. make it a sixteen track looper with sequencer that’s fully midi-able.