oh also one other thing – new loop is like a ‘prepare to initialize’ button – you can press new loop again to cancel out of the new loop thing and still have your old loop. and for loading in files, as long as you’re double checking everything on the card, you don’t need to press ‘new loop’ first.

yeah I export the drum track [or whatever i’m using] from my DAW with the volume optimized for playback [peaking at -0.0db] and then export the same file with the volume muted for the rest of the tracks.
Either that or just duplicate the drum track and erase the rest on the unit [by pressing record with their volume fader on and waiting].

and I make tempo.txt either 60bpm if I’m not using the drum machines [which is the slider all the way at the bottom] or whatever BPM i’m using on the drum machines (EXT Clock mode). I could probably also get some interesting detuning by making it close to the BPM I’m using (say the midi clock is at 136 BPM, change the tempo.txt file to 135BPM).

This is just my way to do it though. I’m sure there’re others.

you have an FX loop pedal with blend control? really? homemade or what brand?

personally I’d set up as
Korg PB
EHX Hot Tubes
Dunlop Crybaby
EHX Double muff
(modulation pedal 1)
EHX BMreish
Y.D. Rat
(modulation pedal 2)
DD3
FX Loop((Modulation pedal 3),(Modulation pedal 4))
FV50L
BB Pre

As far as modulation pedals, dang you like flangers. maybe trade one for a phaser or LFO filter for more range?

no no the possibilities are limited, although the combinations are endless. that’s a common misconception.

Based one a quick browse through the FC300 manual, yes. Also probably yes seeing as that’s what my electribes send my 2880 and it responds to them.

Are you going to assign the exp pedals to control each of the track faders? you totally should. or at least the normal stomps to be a 0/127 switch.

Now make it do seven different name changes with no circuit change!

it could affect things. if you’re really concerned, take it to your local hardware store and get a replacement. It’s about a 37c fix.

not quite.
an octave is twelve half-steps from your initial pitch.

the HOG works more based on the harmonics/overtones of your original signal-

let’s back up a step.
When you play a note on guitar, it’s not just a sine wave at, say, A440 [440Hz]; it’s also got overtones, probably at A880 [an octave above the original signal] and at E1319 [an octave and a fifth above the original signal], as well as other, quieter overtones.
By manipulating these and creating artificial ones, you can completely change the sound of the guitar into, say, a Hammond organ or a clavichord or basically anything a synthesizer would do.

The POG is more of a polyphonic digital pitch shifter, with options like ‘detune’ (chorus for the shifted pitches) and a low-pass filter (which can tame the fizzy stuff you can inadvertantly make with shifting things up in pitch).

The HOG offers control over attack and decay of the sounds created [the volume slopes at the start and the end of a sound – for instance, a hi-hat has both a fast attack and decay, an orchestra string section swell has a slow attack and decay, and a cymbal has a fast attack and slow decay], as well as several other controls/routing options like glissandro [think a slide on a fretless bass], filtering, wah-esque filter sounds, etc. Also, with a HOG, you can use an expression pedal (think like a wah pedal but able to control more than just the things that make it go ‘squonk’.)

if you’re looking for something that just drops your pitch by a half-step, the Ring Thing would be the way to go, or the Morpheus drop tune.