No, you can start and stop it. But it won’t quantize to the next beat for starting.

basically picture that you have two squares that rotate, and they’re stacked ontop of one another. both have a red side, a blue side, a green side and a yellow side. following so far?
They rotate at the same rate and direction and their sides match up. Now say you stop one square’s rotation until its red side isn’t quite lined up with the other square’s green side and then start it rotating again. now they aren’t lined up, but they’re still rotating in the same direction/speed.

Same idea.

It’ll be quirky if you’re doing it that way, I can almost guarantee that. Loopers work best when you think in loops rather than changes over a linear time.

Hey/welcome

1- the looper slaves really well to external clocks like drum machines (I use mine with korg electribes, etc). With starting and stopping a loop, you’d have to leave the drum machine going (so if you wanted to cut the drums, you’d want to cut the audio output, not just hitting ‘stop’).

Starting and stopping either would result in asynchronicity- by this, I don’t mean your loops wouldn’t be quantized to the same bpm as your drum mahine, but their beat 1 could be the drum’s beat 2.1 . It wouldn’t line up if you’re starting/stopping either one. However, by muting things or sending control messages to the faders (thereby cutting things out) you can give the appearance of starting/stopping.
Also reverse will cause asychronicity and octave will be disabled. Also changing bpms on your master will cause speedups/slowdowns of your loops. All things that can either be used to your advantage when they’re known or avoided due to careful drum programming.

2- the footswitch. A standard amp fs won’t work with this. The options are the ehx hog, 2880, or 16 second delay foot controllers or a midi controller, which you’ll have to program for use yourself. As in the other 2880 thread, I recommend the fcb1010, modded with a rewritable eeeprom.

reverbs at the end of your chain, unless you are in the 80’s, in which case you can have a compressor + gate after it.

There’s some issue with the fcb1010 where its programmability is hindered so it doesn’t infringe on a patent or somethhing. It’s switching out an IC or two (or maybe an eeprom?). If they didn’t pass clock signal as is, you could always get a quadra thru and then merge boxes for clock+fcb signals. Not sure what you mean by 14″ out.

Yeah like I said, my old strat had problems with it. I ended up filing/sanding down the raised poles and then raising the entire pickup, although mine wasn’t for a Ravish it was so playing with a bow would pick up more evenly. Hooray cheapie guitars.

You probably don’t want to do that though.

are you sure it’s not the metal pole pieces in the pickups directly affecting output volume?
I know my old strat had all sorts of problems with that.

the Randall one is more for midi-switching rigs, like where the guitarist has a bunch of different racks for his Van Halen effects, his Nitro effects, his Scorpions effects, etc.

the midi solutions one would work but you’d need four or five for what you’re talking about.

The softstep would be an option but i’m not sure if that’s a standalone item or if you’d need a laptop to run it.

The Digitech PDS 3500 would be an option but you’d need four of them and a midi merge box.

a modded Behringer FCB1010 would probably be the best bet.

Or there’s a roland one too, that’s a bit smaller than the 1010 but I can’t recall offhand what that one is.

I don’t use logic, but why are you making the 2880 the master clock? seems more worthwhile to do it opposite.