Hi Rick
Sorry for the confusion.
The dummy plug is only used when you are using the Big Muff as a noise source.
For the Lucky Man solo the set up is as follows:
Guitar into the Big Muff input.
The Big Muff output into a 1/4 to XLR adapter.
That is plugged into the XLR input on the V256.
The output of the V256 into a XLR to 1/4 adapter.
That is plugged into the Poly Chorus input.
Poly Chorus output is then plugged into a Cathedral reverb.
Hope that helps.
Bill
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Hi Bill,
Amazing work with the V256. Really enjoyed your videos.
I’m having trouble getting my arms around the hook up for Lucky Man. Did it go like this >>
Dummy TS plug into Big Muff, with it’s output to 1/4 input of V256
Guitar’s TS 1/4″ converted to XLR input on V256
V256 XLR output converted to 1/4 TS > Pitch Detune > etc.
Does the Big Muff really go into the instrument input of the V256 and how should the balanced XLR be wired into a 1/4″ TS or should it be a TRS jack?
Mi Mark
I set up my effect chains as I record so I can not answer for sure on what the 256 does to a bypassed signal chain.
I will find out.
If there is a problem you could always use a passive loop selector and switch that chain in and out of the signal path.
as for the plugs it should not matter as long as they are 1/4 inch to XLR connectors (Male and female).
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Bill,
I have a couple of questions for you. Does using the xlr adapters cut the gain in the signal flow? For example, if I put the voice box in-line on my pedal board using the xlr adapters, is my normal signal level going to drop? And, I’m curious, does this introduce any hum or problems? One more thing. Forgive my ignorance: I’ve been looking for the adapters like in the picture above. I have found them. One is specified as balanced and the other does not say. Does balanced or unbalanced matter or do I just simply buy them and hook up?
It will not work the same as the Stereo Memory Man
The Cathedral outputs are not discrete or separate. The outputs are panned with some of reverb signal in the center.
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Just wondering if anyone has tried running a patch cable between the right and left inputs like
you can with the DMMH???
GREAT!
If you want reverb turn up the harmony knob.
Have fun!!
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hahahahha I might sound ignorant, but not that much, the bypass switch was on hahahha the problem was I kept pressing the preset switch thinking I was saving it but instead I was choosing the factory preset. I read the manual and now I have the whistle preset.
It sounds amazing!!! I will be using it a lot with my celtic rock band.
Thanks for everything Bill!!! And keep doing the effectology, It is awesome, and it really works for EHX, this is the second EHX pedal I buy because of your effectology (The first one being a micro POG).
Phontom is not on.
The sound should be one octave higher than your guitar with the setting above.
If you hear reverb it is set wrong.
Make sure you press the MIC-Bypass switch and the light is on.
Set the amp for clean and play single notes.
Thats it…
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Thanks for the help, I made the cable and it works.
But… I need more help, it doesn’t sound anything like a whistle. The settings on the VB are as told. Does the phantom need to be on or off? Are the Big Muff and Cathedral necessary? I am using my amp distortion and my Delay (short delay to make it sound more like a reverb).
When I turn the VB on with the whistle setting the only thing that changes is that it sounds a bit more reverbish, but the pitch is the same and the sound is very similar to when it’s off.
For me the switch gets corroded after time and it gets sporadic.
Thats just the nature of switches.
I clean my switch with deoxit contact spray.
Opening the back and just spraying the back of the switch.
It makes it way in the switch and it is good to go after a few switches.
The cleaner is great for scratchy controls and dirty jacks on all you gear.
If that fails contact Chip at info@ehx.com for factory repair.
Good luck.
Bill
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yikes I’m having trouble w my favorite pedal, the SMMH.
I have gigged this thing for 2 1/2 yrs w no problems whatsoever, but…
The pedal lives on a pedalboard and is using its supplied power supply, also I don’t wears shoes onstage so the pedal has had a pretty easy life.
Heres the prob: every once in a while, regardless of mode setting, the pedal has trouble activating.
Visually the bypass led flickers for about a second, then stays on, w a terrible setting that has nothing to do w the current setting OR preset.
Aurally, when the led is stuck on, I can turn the unit on and off, the led stays lit but the pedal acts like a true bypass pedal w no battery. bypass then silence.
anyone had a similar experience? Intuition leads me towards a possible fault bypass switch?
This pedal has become integral to my parts in 2 different bands. I hope I can get this rectified.
The problem is intermittent, and usually cured buy unplugging its power supply and reconnecting.
Thanks for reading this, hope it was somewhat clear and succinct.
Lando,
The envelope filter in the Micro Synth is what make this effect work.
It is tricky to set up, but a wonderful effect
Also the slight ring mod adds the “tine” or enharmonic tone bar sound of an electronic piano.
The HOG is great at other things but it will not lead you to a sound like this…
Bill Ruppert
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Is possible to get this sound with the hog instead of the micro synth? I cant decide which to get and it seems the Hog is more usable live, but I love the sounds I hear from the MS… any advice on the 2?
Below are the pedal settings for Effectology Episode 20: “The Caribbean Steel Drum Effect.”
The steel drum sound is produced using a combination of pitch shifting and flanging with the modulation stopped.
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Pitch shifting can be done with either a HOG or POG pedal. An octave above is created and filtered to remove the top frequencies. When using the HOG, the attack slider is adjusted to reduce the sustain of the guitar signal. This helps emulate the percussive nature of a steel drum.
The pitch shifted signal is then feed into a Poly Chorus pedal in the filter matrix mode. The filter matrix mode is basically flanging with the sweep disabled. This produces the metallic resonance of a metal tube or drum.
Playing staccato or with very short notes helps emulate the steel drum sound even further.
Below are the settings for the bass part.
The maracas or shaker sound was produced by sliding an EHX manual across the guitar strings. Using EQ to lower the bass and increase the middle frequencies helps shape the sound.
The opening drone sound was recorded in two parts. The surf or ocean wave sound is white noise from a Big Muff fuzz manually filtered by a Micro Synthesizer pedal.
The chord pad sound is a chord frozen using a HOG pedal in freeze mode and looped in a Stereo Memory Man with Hazarai. A second or different chord was frozen and looped on top of the first chord, producing a cluster of notes or what’s called a poly-chord.