I would just use some strong glue to glue the split up, then scratch some of the solder mask of the traces (the green coating on the copper) that cross the split because if you dont the solder wont take to it, then solder them up.

They are getting more expensive, I agree. I got mine for 100 bucks in 08. Now that everyone is like you said, “OMFG, O M F G, Billy corgon used a V4 opamp muff, I MUST have one” thing happened they will only get dearer.

*shakes head at peoples stupidity*

I still wana get another one before they get ridiculous in price.

Really kit should have said NOTHING about it IMO! He has inadvertently ruined it for collectors wanting IC muffs.
All you need to do is look at the sovtek price hike phenomenon and the fact the people were convinced corgan used these(I stillse people advertising such on ebay), also they knew gilmour used them too, it all contributed to the hype around them. And they are more hype than good sounds IME/IMO, just like triangle muffs….most suck,some are brilliant, I only need to see gut shots of them tell this, and which will be boomy pieces of junk and which will be smooth woolly beasts etc etc!

Most obvious things are the pots and the electrolytics (if there are any on there?). I’d recap it anyway, it’s probably about due and take it from there.
Should be lots of sustain out of that thing.

Hey, don’t blame me. Someone here and someone on the Gear Forum (I think) pointed it out before I did

I blame Billy for releasing that pic.

Like Kit said v3, ram’s head board with the red/black colours.
It doesn’t work? Post pics…

it looks more like this inside

[IMG]”http://i440.photobucket.com/albums/qq123/devnulljp/Fuzz/Big Muffs/v3-1977-redblack/v3redblack_board_back_0001.jpg”[/IMG]

Than this right?

[IMG]”http://i440.photobucket.com/albums/qq123/devnulljp/Fuzz/Big Muffs/4a42082d.jpg”[/IMG]

devnulljp its board one not board two

thankyou so much for the quick reply, ive taken pics of the board front, and back, along with the casing.
its more looking like the ver 3 model, it has the red lettering case not rams head electro harmonix made in the usa on it scratched to buggery, im sure alot are like that now.

its got the dakkaware chicago pointer knobs but both are looking stuffed on the inside.

i think i have the third one somewhere, and now i take a closer look this is what i see on the board c3 c4 c5 c13 have .1uf aec caps c10 c11 c12 have 470 aec caps d2 has something missing
c9 has 100v a-18 c8 has i think .01 its hard to read it

near the 3003 on the board it has a big silver barrel cap that says m235 7515a at c2 1+10 100v

hope thats enough info on whats on the board, i will go check if digital camera has charged enough so i can load the pics hope this is worth saving, i guess i got it about 12 years ago now.

thanks guys

wayne )

They’re just capacitors — all the old muffs have different types. ceramic discs, electrolytics, those big square ones. It doesn’t really matter.

Your pedal is def worth saving.

Whatever’s wrong with it, it’s unlikely to take much to fix it. Often replacing the electrolytics will do the trick…or the switch. Those slider switches get grunged up quite often too. That’s a 5 min fix right there. Are you sure the transistors have been messed with ? They normally sit quite high off the board…

Those are great sounding muffs, it’d be a shame to leave it dead in the water.
Send it to Ron to fix up if you don’t make much headway…it’ll be worth it.