Home › Forums › Vintage EHX › Which version of the vintage Big Muff do I have?

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  • January 31, 2010 at 5:09 am #79789
    lewd2
    Member

    I have a Big Muff I bought in the 80’s of which I changed the slide tone switch to a regular foot switch. I then put everything in a clone theory case since it was more sturdy. Now years later I’d like to use the unit BUT various wires have pulled apart from the board and I can’t figure out where to re-connect them. I was hoping someone can tell me which board I have . I haven’t been able to find my version on all the places I’ve looked on the net. Thanks in advance.

    January 31, 2010 at 7:14 am #106968
    devnulljp
    Participant

    v5 op-amp muff w/ tone bypass.
    What’s the number on the flip side of the board EHxxxxx
    Hard to see much else from the tiny pic though.
    EH1322 maybe — I used to have a bunch of those and Kit Rae really likes em.
    The v4 non-tone bypass I had was a 3003B board. The other two were v5 TB EH1322 & EH3003. Both of those latter boards wer ealso dropped into little big muff cases in the 70s with a resistor across the pot pads for tone and sustain, leaving only one pot for volume.

    The EH3003 and EH1322 op-amp muffs (usually?) had the green mask on the board though. Yours looks brown.

    Post bigger/better pics?

    EH3003B
    [IMG]”http://i440.photobucket.com/albums/qq123/devnulljp/Fuzz/Big Muffs/3487c7b2.jpg”[/IMG]
    [IMG]”http://i440.photobucket.com/albums/qq123/devnulljp/Fuzz/Big Muffs/741a5673.jpg”[/IMG]
    [IMG]”http://i440.photobucket.com/albums/qq123/devnulljp/Fuzz/Big Muffs/21b9bf4a.jpg”[/IMG]

    EH1322
    [IMG]”http://i440.photobucket.com/albums/qq123/devnulljp/Fuzz/Big Muffs/2ad3ccf7.jpg”[/IMG]

    EH3003 op-amp
    [IMG]”http://i440.photobucket.com/albums/qq123/devnulljp/Fuzz/Big Muffs/4a42082d.jpg”[/IMG]

    January 31, 2010 at 8:11 am #106973
    lewd2
    Member

    Mine is the EH3003 op-amp board with tone by-pass judging from the pictures. I’d include bigger pictures but I don’t know how with the 75kb limit. The wiring and color of the wires seems to be different as well.

    January 31, 2010 at 8:21 am #106975
    devnulljp
    Participant

    Wiring colour never seemed to be a major concern at EHX :D
    Same with exact wiring specs.
    I have some good pics of that board if you need them for your restoration just let me know what you need.

    BTW, for pics you can use http://imgur.com/ photobucket, imageshack, or any of the others.

    January 31, 2010 at 10:03 pm #106988
    Kitrae
    Member

    That’s one of the rare times I have seen a brown board op-amp Muff. There is lots of info on them and pix here. You should be able to see where the wires were originally connected from these or the pix above.
    http://www.kitrae.net/music/big_muff_op_amp_history.html#Version4

    February 1, 2010 at 1:00 am #106991
    Ned Flanders
    Moderator

    Doesn’t really matter what the PCB says or copper clad color or if its phenolic or whatever, the circuit is identical other than one has an on/off switch and one has a tonebypass set up.

    I’ve seen around five different PCB layouts for both V4 and V5’s but the circuit is identical. Although, like all EH pedals some component values are different here and there, its not an intentional variation, its a mistake (or substitute because of the correct parts not being available) made by the builder.

    I’ve personally traced 2 V4’s and 3 V5’s (real life and foto’s) and what I’ve observed is the circuit is 100% Identical. IMO the V5 is better as it has the tone bypass which is more useful than an on/off switch which is 100% useless to me.

    Cool sounding pedals anyways…the IC muffs, I love mine to death!

    WHy they bothered making so many different PCB layouts for an identical pedal, I have no idea!!! 😆 The only difference in the TB PCB is a cut trace, if you dont cut the trace it is just a normal non tone bypass pedal……

    February 1, 2010 at 2:06 am #106992
    lewd2
    Member

    I have found a way to upload images ….I might have to do seperate post so you can get an idea of what I have….btw I love my version and have bought two other versions off of ebay that are not like mine both a 3003 and a 3034 board and THEIR is a difference in the sound. How can I re-do my board? As you can see in the pictures it’s cracked.

    February 1, 2010 at 2:09 am #106994
    lewd2
    Member

    here is another pic

    February 1, 2010 at 2:11 am #106995
    devnulljp
    Participant

    3034 is a transistor muff — 2n5088s usually. The Mudhoney muff.

    February 1, 2010 at 2:13 am #106996
    lewd2
    Member

    Here are a few more

    February 1, 2010 at 2:15 am #106997
    lewd2
    Member

    last one

    February 1, 2010 at 2:17 am #106998
    lewd2
    Member

    Quick question….how can I include the picture in the body of the reply or message like the one’s here.

    February 1, 2010 at 2:22 am #106999
    Ned Flanders
    Moderator
    Quote:
    I have found a way to upload images ….I might have to do seperate post so you can get an idea of what I have….btw I love my version and have bought two other versions off of ebay that are not like mine both a 3003 and a 3034 board and THEIR is a difference in the sound. How can I re-do my board? As you can see in the pictures it’s cracked.

    Of course there’s a difference in sound as no two big muffs sound alike! Besides like dev said, the 3034 is a transistor muff and the one you’re posting about now is an IC muff, two totally different things. I have 12 big muffs and not one sounds like the other.
    But the schematic,parts values used are 100% identical! (of the IC muffs I mean, yet any two will still sound slightly different)

    February 1, 2010 at 3:31 am #107002
    lewd2
    Member

    Thanks for the reply however how can I repair the one I own? I’d like to get rid of the other one’s I have but not until I get this one fixed.

    February 1, 2010 at 3:59 am #107003
    Kitrae
    Member
    Quote:
    Thanks for the reply however how can I repair the one I own? I’d like to get rid of the other one’s I have but not until I get this one fixed.

    Not the best fix, but you can solder across the broken traces on the board so they connect. Past that, you could get the schematic online, some perf circuit board, wire, and put everything on a new board. That’s a lot of work if you have never done this before though.

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