Home Forums Vintage EHX Vintage Doctor Q – Parts Help

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  • #83046
    RicM
    Member

    EDIT Note: Skip to end for final questions.



    I am working on a 70’s Doctor Q – not the one the other guys in this forum has. :-)

    It has a couple problems with iffy outputs. Here’s what I’ve done so far and where I may need a pointer.

    I replaced a couple solid wires which were broken. That cleaned up a couple problems.

    I replaced the battery holder.

    The Ducati 25/50 cap looks like it was leaking years ago. I tested it on my DMM and it looked like it was hitting about 26 uF, so that I think is OK. But I don’t know how to test ESR. So I replaced it with an off-the-shelf 22/35. Should that OK? I could not find those other ones.

    At this point, bypass works, but no effect sound.

    I replaced the slider “Bass” switch with a Philco DPDT switch, but no difference.

    When I hooked my DMM to one of the solder joints on the footswitch, the switch basically crumbled. No worries, so I need to replace it.

    So my questions are:
    Can I get the direct replacement switch?
    Is the capacitor change “close enough”?
    Until I get a switch, can I get the wires I can jumper so I can test if the switch is the problem?

    The current switch has 4 terminals – 2 on each end.

    I’ve attached a photo showing the switch and the cap replacement.

    Thanks!


    Edit 1: OK, I think I have the footswitch wiring figured out. I know – not that hard. The blue/jumpered is the common. Depending on the position of the switch, the blue gets connected to either the red or the brown (which I replaced with yellow – all the brown wire was very old and I wasn’t confident in it).

    So still need:
    Can I get the direct replacement switch?
    Is the capacitor change “close enough”?
    Also: The slider “Bass” switch…I just used an off-the-shelf DPDT – OK?

    Thanks!


    Edit 2: It sounds like I have this guy pretty much fixed. I will need a footswitch.

    Is there a direct replacement? Or should I go with one of the new ones which add true bypass? I’d prefer as direct of a replacement as possible.

    I notice that the blue tuning pot is very sensitive. Since I have no reference, what is the beast way to “earball” it? Basically, I think I should set the main (external) pot “somewhere” and then adjust the internal one until I hear “something”. What are those “somewhere” and “something”?

    Thanks!

    #119192
    The EH Man
    Moderator

    The closest is a Carling SPDT footswitch.
    I’d turn the control to max then adjust the trim to taste.

    #119193
    RicM
    Member

    Thanks kindly. It’s nice to get this old pedal working again. Cheers!

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