Home › Forums › Vintage EHX › Small stone effect bleed through

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  • March 29, 2011 at 11:50 pm #81501
    mosrite1
    Member

    Hi
    I just got a vintage Small Stone, I am noticing that when the effect is bypassed, I can still hear the effect in the backround..what gives and how can I fix it ? When the effect is engaged, it sounds good

    thanks!!

    March 30, 2011 at 12:53 pm #114755
    melx
    Member

    change the switch and make it true bypass, very simple to do without an led.

    http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_nsvZ1rXQwes/TGiBRyyKIlI/AAAAAAAAAl0/kbfXTeendkY/s1600/2pdt.JPG

    The ‘jack input’ wire in the one connected to the input jack tip
    The ‘jack output’ wire is the one connected to the output jack tip
    The ‘board input’ wire is the one that’s on the same side of the switch as the ‘jack input’ wire
    The board output will be the one that’s left on the other side of the original switch

    …if that makes sense? :)

    I recently did this mod to a vintage LPB-2 you can find pics and details here which might help even though it’s a different pedal it’s the same principle.

    details here!

    http://melxfx.blogspot.com/2011/01/ehx-lpb-2-true-bypass-switch.html

    hope that helps.

    April 1, 2011 at 9:49 am #114854
    mosrite1
    Member

    Ok, thanks.. I fixed the bleed through !! Now it has a tick when the effect is on.. can you help with that? UGH!!

    April 1, 2011 at 9:55 am #114855
    ehxguy11
    Member

    Are you using a power supply or a battery?

    April 1, 2011 at 9:58 am #114856
    mosrite1
    Member

    Power supply from a boss TU2 tuner

    April 1, 2011 at 10:02 am #114857
    ehxguy11
    Member

    Try running it on batteries or a different source.

    April 1, 2011 at 3:03 pm #114862
    Scruffie
    Member
    Quote:
    Ok, thanks.. I fixed the bleed through !! Now it has a tick when the effect is on.. can you help with that? UGH!!

    With a vintage pedal, especially one over 20-30 years old, replacing the Electrolytics and Tantalum Caps is almost always a good idea, especially in the LFO and any in the Power & V.Ref area, that may very well resolve your issue.

    Edit: If the Schematic I have is correct, i’d start with the 1uF Tantalum & 50uF Electro in the LFO, I bet that solves the problem, but you should replace the others anyway.

    April 3, 2011 at 5:02 am #114874
    mosrite1
    Member

    It does it using either a/c or batteries.. I replaced all of the electrolytics but not the other cap… Where can I get a schematic for it? Any other suggestions?

    April 3, 2011 at 1:07 pm #114877
    Scruffie
    Member
    Quote:
    It does it using either a/c or batteries.. I replaced all of the electrolytics but not the other cap… Where can I get a schematic for it? Any other suggestions?

    Google Images – Small Stone Schematic – Image on the Furthest Right Top Row
    (I dunno if posting schematics here is done so… yeah… that should get you it though)

    The 1uF Tantalum from the Gut Shot I saw is in the Top Left Corner Next to the Pot & a EH1048, little red or blue thing probably,just check the markings for anything in the uF range, don’t forget Tantalums are Polarized.

    Post a gut shot and i’ll see if I can spot it for you.

    April 4, 2011 at 3:50 am #114891
    mosrite1
    Member

    here you go ! The switch is popping as well, this thing is full of issues! thanks for your help

    April 5, 2011 at 6:18 am #114903
    mosrite1
    Member

    What else can be used for those tantalum capacitor? they are not very easy to find . Can you substitute with an orange drop or an electrolytic cap? Does the polarity matter in this application ?

    What about this popping issue ? can anyone help me with that?

    thanks

    April 5, 2011 at 5:41 pm #114904
    Scruffie
    Member
    Quote:
    What else can be used for those tantalum capacitor? they are not very easy to find . Can you substitute with an orange drop or an electrolytic cap? Does the polarity matter in this application ?

    What about this popping issue ? can anyone help me with that?

    thanks

    Actually… looking at your pedal it doesn’t conform quite to that schematic, nor does it seem to have a 1uF Tantalum as far as I can spot…

    Regards substitute anyway, yes a 1uF Electrolytic would most likely be fine, as would an Orange Drop Cap, the 1uF Tantalum was probably chosen for its cost and small size when this was produced and while you should always keep the polarity how it was originally, the polarity is not required so a Non Polar cap would be fine.

    You say you replaced all the other Electrolytics in the circuit? I’ll have a think of what else to try if so.

    Switch Pop, Electrolytics once again could cause that, measure for any DC voltage on the output of the circuit and try adding a 1M Resistor from the Input Jack/Circuit Input to Ground.

    February 24, 2024 at 12:55 pm #209094
    restlessman
    Participant

    Hi. This post is really old but I got the same problem with a couple of vintage units (v3 and v4). The ‘pop’ sound when activate the pedal was terrible, but the solution was very simple. First of all, I performed a cleanup of the units with contact cleaner and a brush but it didn’t help. Later I found out that not only the switch activation caused the sound but any strong touch or vibration on the units (like activation of a nearby pedal). I opened one of them and found out that the tip connection of the output jack was a bit loose, so I bent it towards the center to make the connection between the jack and the plug stronger. Voilá! The pop sound dissapeared! I hope this helps anyone. Let me know if does.
    Greetings from Chile!

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