Home Forums The Lounge schematics help please

Viewing 14 posts - 16 through 29 (of 29 total)
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  • #110551
    Mr.Grim
    Member

    yeah make sure everything fits right after your done drilling the holes, and before you apply any finish. and yeah waiting 48 hours is a great idea, but i will admit i get impatient sum times as well. 🙄

    #110552

    i did finish then drilling

    #110553
    DarkAxel
    Participant
    Quote:
    Grim!!! i can’t drool at work, my boss is gonna be angry! :D

    the bottom right reminded me of Rec… actually it first reminded me of the ring, but then i was like “in the ring there wasn’t too much of a face to glance upon…” lol i’m on fire today…

    the others… come on, there’s too many zombie movies to guess that :D the on on the top kinda reminded me of Evil Dead, but i don’t really know why…

    Grim, please… what are those pedals? how do you do the graphics… you guys make me want to learn how to solder and make my own pedals…

    don’t overlook me :D

    #110554
    Mr.Grim
    Member

    what do the pedals do? or what are the movies on them?

    #110558
    DarkAxel
    Participant

    would you mind answering both? :) i gues i didn’t guess any movie right, but whatever ;) those graphics are just beautiful

    #110563
    Mr.Grim
    Member

    well these are a batch of simple pedals or “tools” i wanted for my board that i made real quick all together. but i have made many more complex pedals for my self, i do make these and sell them localy to friends and other musicians. but only my copies have the pictures, as i do not own the right to them, there just for my enjoyment.

    black one on the left is a volume attenuator, very much like the EH signal pad, but i added optical control to use it like an expression pedal, the small toggle switch turns it from knob control level, or the optical control level.

    picture is from “Zombi” (no e) (1979) we know it as George Romero’s Dawn of the Dead. this pic was taken from its Euro cut re-edited by Lucio Fulci. the only difference between films is, the euro cut had more action scenes, and less slap stick, and a different soundtrack done by “Goblin”. the only noticeable character in the painting like pic is “Peter” the black Hero of the film played by Ken Foree.

    the yellow one on the right is a simple stutter or kill switch. its mostly just a momentary switch. the knob controls how much of the signal is cut. full to the right cuts out signal all together. noon position has no effect, and in between noon and to the right, it controls basicly volume, you can go from full cut, half cut, little to no cut…ect.. if you go to the left from noon, it starts to fade in an alternate tone, like you guitars tone control so it could sound like your flicking you pickup switch with different tone settings on them.

    picture is from “jenifer” (2005) one of the “Masters of Horror” one hour film series. this entry was directed by Dario Argento.

    bottom green one is a true bypass loop with feedback control. right footswitch engages the loop activating what ever pedal, or pedal’s are in it. and the left footswitch engages the feedback option. knob controls the amount of feedback. it has a bright green LED.

    picture is also from the 2005 “Masters of Horror” one hour series. this one is called “Homecoming” directed by Joe Dante.

    the blue one on top is also a bypass looper and feedback looper, but i call this one the deluxe model. it has a second LED (both bright blue) to indicate the feedback (green one only has one that indicates bypass) and a second knob to control volume, as it can get very loud making feedback. and the little toggle switch in the center is to turn on the optical eye on the bottom of the unit to control the feedback in an expression pedal way.

    picture is from “Hell of the Living Dead” (aka “night of the Zombies” and “virus”) (1980)
    directed by Bruno Mattei.

    #110565
    DarkAxel
    Participant

    o yeah, thank you for the response :) interesting… good luck with future building, it’s great!

    #110579

    but how did you do the finish!?!

    i had this idea of taking a digital print of whatever on the photo paper (like the kind that you get your pictures printed on at walmart when you turn in your disposable camera) then use a heat gun and basically melt it onto the enclosure. the problem with that though is that it might make bubbles and it might warp the size slightly. i got that idea from doing it with pillowcases and ironing pictures onto them. my mom did that when i was little

    #110588

    hey fools. i need more help. this one is for the octave multiplexer. follow this link and if you go to the bottom of the page, there are 4 links. look at the layout please. ok so theres the pcb layout or whatever. in this you can see “C” and “D” then also “I” “B” and “H”. im just wondering what they are!?!
    there is also a components list that i looked through for clues but it apparently didnt help me. thanks guys

    #110590
    julian
    Moderator

    Since we’re showing off builds, here’s a fuzz I built for a friend:

    #110597

    i wanted to make sure you guys saw my last post. i need help

    #110605
    SanquiFlerb
    Member

    I don’t know what the hell they are. Topopiccione has a wide and easy selection of pedals, but that is something I could never figure out. Even tho, I’ve identified several points:

    On the layout:

    “C” and “D” points: on the layout there is a piece of trace that comes from the 3 lug of the middle pot (blend). If that point is connected to “C” the sub, or bass, is on. If it’s connected to “D” is off. You need a SPDT switch.

    “H” and “I” points: That’s the range switch. IIRC there’s just 1 switch on the OM, but whatever. Use a SPST on that one to toggle it on or off.

    All the other points I find them useless (on the schematic), since the layout specifies where you must put the pots, the ground, in and out, etc.

    #112237
    kavach
    Member

    Hi there,

    I have problem with my favorite chorus (nano clone). R1 resistance is been blown due maybe to improper power supply. Can you tell me please its value (R1) to replace it? If possible any schematic about.

    Thank you very much.

    #112258

    hey i found this. they arent numbered in order so i figured you might be able to compare the 2 and find out which one it is. good luck http://www.tonepad.com/project.asp?id=8

Viewing 14 posts - 16 through 29 (of 29 total)
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