Home › Forums › Help/Technical Questions › RH Big Muff broken…any suggestions

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  • February 22, 2010 at 10:04 pm #79918
    Haole
    Member

    Forgive me as I don’t know the correct terms…but the plastic black case attached to underside of the footswitch on my big muff cracked open and now I have two wires just hangin’ out and a couple of random detached pieces I have no idea what they are. Can I buy a replacement for this part and if so, where? I don’t have much experience with this stuff, but I think I can at least solder a piece or two if I need to.

    February 22, 2010 at 10:06 pm #107812
    Haole
    Member

    Few more pics

    Thanks in advance for any replies!

    February 22, 2010 at 10:59 pm #107813
    The EH Man
    Moderator

    The way those Big Muffs are wired, you just need an SPDT footswitch.

    If you want to wire it for true-bypass, which is a better idea, use a DPDT

    http://www.smallbearelec.com/Detail.bok?no=80

    (or a 3PDT).

    http://www.smallbearelec.com/Detail.bok?no=20

    I didn’t link to the cheaper switches because they’re just not worth the time/money. These 2 are the best.

    February 23, 2010 at 12:01 am #107814
    Ned Flanders
    Moderator

    You can get the identical 3PDT switch from here for less: (shipping’s less too, I buy all by 3PDT’s from arons store.)
    http://diystompboxes.com/zencart/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=1

    February 23, 2010 at 12:41 am #107815
    Haole
    Member

    Thanks for the replies!
    Why would wiring it for a “true-bypass” be better? Would that require additional wiring? If I went with a SPDT switch could I just attach the two wires that are currently detached and call it good? Sorry for the questions that I’m sure seem so elementary. Thanks again for the help. You guys are great!

    February 23, 2010 at 5:27 am #107837
    Ned Flanders
    Moderator

    I t would be better because your signal wouldnt leak into the effect when bypassed and drain some of the signal strength.

    It requires only one more piece of wire to what you already have.

    Some non true bypass, like sovtek big muffs, are fine but they use a different non true bypass than the american big muffs that helps prevent signal leak.

    February 26, 2010 at 2:00 am #107940
    Haole
    Member

    I just bought a carlin SPDT switch and need to know which wires connect where. There are 3 wires currently attached to the big muff: one to the “input” jack, one to the “amplifier” jack and one to the volume pot. There are three places to connect on the carlin switch, 2 on one side and 1 on the other. The side that has two connectors has one going straight out and one pointing down.

    I am interested in doing a true bypass, but that 3PDT switch scares me :) and I really don’t want to screw it up. If anyone has a wiring diagram with either the DPDT or the 3PDT then maybe I can determine if I trust myself enough to do it. Until then I can at least have a SDPT in place so I can use my pedal.

    Thanks again for your replies. I have never been a “gear guy”, actually bought this pedal about 15 years ago cuz I heard J Mascis used them. At that time I wouldn’t have known a Rams Head from a hole in the ground, just thought I would buy a “used” one. Guess I was pretty lucky this is the one the music shop had for $80.

    February 26, 2010 at 11:20 pm #107984
    Haole
    Member
    Quote:
    I just bought a carlin SPDT switch and need to know which wires connect where. There are 3 wires currently attached to the big muff: one to the “input” jack, one to the “amplifier” jack and one to the volume pot. There are three places to connect on the carlin switch, 2 on one side and 1 on the other. The side that has two connectors has one going straight out and one pointing down.

    Anyone?

    February 26, 2010 at 11:59 pm #107988
    Ned Flanders
    Moderator

    There’s a wire that goes from the input jack to the pcb then it continues to the switch, this wire connects to one of the lugs that have one next to it.
    Then there’s a wire coming from the PCB, that goes to the lug next the the one mentioned above.
    Then there’s a wire coming form the output jack,that goes to the lug on its own.

    EDIT: here’s a diagram:
    switch_lo_spdt_std_in.gif

    February 27, 2010 at 12:34 am #107989
    Haole
    Member

    Thank you, thank you!

    June 27, 2010 at 3:21 am #109842
    darthadamvader
    Participant

    Can someone point out the in, out, ground and +9v on the Rams Heads pcb? I have had a hard time trying to figure it out.

    July 17, 2010 at 3:11 am #110304
    claytushaywood
    Participant

    I recently went into my big muff and (after break the cheap ass wire from the pcb) i noticed there are 4 wires coming from the input jack. 2 wires coming from the same lug that has the wire that goes to the footswitch.

    there is also a 220ug capacitor along with two resistors on the back of the pcb that go to the power supply jack.

    can anyone help? ive never seen this before!

    btw… the muff doesnt work. bypass works but is distorted now

    Thanks!

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