Home Forums Help/Technical Questions FLANGER HOAX MINI-SWITCH ACTING UP

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  • #80462
    Stacco
    Member

    Never had a problem with the unit, I usually have it set to a TFZ setting, but today I was playing around with it, trying out different sounds. I normally have the feedback switch on Swept but today, as I flicked it between swept, dry and wet the unit suddenly stopped sounding.

    While playing with the switch I’ve heard loud pops, when I backed up the mix knob the dry sound would come back, but at 100% it’s either silence or the annoying pops when I toggle the switch.

    It seems kind of stuck because it doesn’t click through the three positions. I noticed that by forcing it slightly, the unit suddenly started sounding again, and I’ve managed to put it back to “Swept” and now that’s where it is. It seems to be working fine, but I’m hesitant to even touch the switch.

    Has anyone experienced any of these mini switches crapping out? Are they easy to find and replace?

    Should I open the unit and try and fix it myself? it certainly seems like a physical, not electronically issue. This is a bummer, because I love looping stuff before the Hoax and then using it to mangle the sound, hands on! I love my “go-to” TFZ setting (Ripped from these very forums), but man, I don’t want to limit it’s possibilities.

    Can anyone help???

    #110041
    Mr.Grim
    Member

    if its under warranty, just get it fixed professionally, but if not, it should be an easy fix, just open it up, look at the switch and get an exact replacement, and copy the wires onto the new one.

    im 99% sure its just the switch itself thats the problem.

    #110067
    Stacco
    Member

    Not so easy, the switch is on the other (front) side of the PCB. I’ve tried to nudge it into position and the stem has broken. The switch itself seems to be functioning, but now it’s stuck on Swept. (Before it just didn’t let any sound through or just pop loudly). I’m wandering if by screwing in a similar size “stem” I can make it function again.

    #110454
    puretube
    Member

    I`m not so sure whether that stem can be screwed out…
    but surely the problem is a mechanical one.
    If someone is going to take the PCB out of the box anyway,
    it is better to replace the complete switch with an equivalent one.
    “Playing” around with the built-in switch might damege the copper-traces on the board.
    Too much strain on the board is not good!

    (A verstile technician could also put the switch into the OFF-position,
    and install a screwable ON/OFF/ON-switch somewhere else in the chassis,
    and solder that new one with flexible wires to the relevant PCB-pads…)

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