Home › Forums › Help/Technical Questions › Attempting true bypass mod, questions.
- This topic has 13 replies, 3 voices, and was last updated 15 years, 3 months ago by h8mtv.
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August 9, 2009 at 3:20 pm #78750h8mtvMember
I am using this as directions for the true bypass mod on my black Big Muff.
It is not terribly clear to me looking at my pedal where I should cut the trace. Beyond that I have 2 yellow wires coming from the center poles on the tone and sustain knobs that I am not sure where to connect with info given in the pic alone. I am otherwise pretty well converted I think. Help please.
August 9, 2009 at 6:17 pm #100443h8mtvMemberAugust 10, 2009 at 1:22 am #100449h8mtvMemberI also notice I do not have anything tied to the vol 2 post on the switch. What do I connect that to?
August 11, 2009 at 2:21 am #100481h8mtvMemberAugust 11, 2009 at 9:55 am #100490Ned FlandersModeratorI’ll try explain it in a few ways.
You cut the trace just between the tip of the input jack and the first resistor you come to.
Make it so the trace coming off of the tip of the input jack does NOT touch that first resistor.
So, input jack tip is soldered to trace, then that trace goes into the purple wire then the trace continues into that first resistor, cut trace so it doesn’t touch the resistor.
Then the green wire connecting to the trace on the bottom of the diagram goes directly to that first resistor near the trace you cut and that is your FX input.
What you are doing is isolating the FX input from the input jack,hence,making it true bypass.
If you are using a Blue 3PDT switch use the switch wiring on the left of the diagram.
Ya see on the bottom of the PCB where I have T1 T2 T3 S1 S2 S3 V1 V3 etc, well they refer to the pot lugs of sustain, tone and volume. the reason theres no V2 is because V2 is connected to the switch and is your effect output.
August 11, 2009 at 10:13 pm #100509h8mtvMemberWhere do I connect the lead coming off the center position of the sustain pot?
August 12, 2009 at 11:33 am #100525Ned FlandersModeratorTo S2 on the PCB.
August 12, 2009 at 9:33 pm #100542h8mtvMemberQuote:To S2 on the PCB.Ah there were originally 2 leads coming off that position on the pot.
I get a clean signal but once I punch the switch I get a light but no sound.August 13, 2009 at 1:42 am #100544Ned FlandersModeratorThere is two wires on two positions in un TB mode, just discard them and wire it as the diagram shows, the diagram is perfect so it you follow it 100% it will work.
August 13, 2009 at 5:34 pm #100556h8mtvMemberWhen I started this project I had a dead big muff and it was suggested here that it was likely the switch. Mod is 100% now and I still have no sound unless it is bypassed. I have another issue somewhere. Now I have hours invested and no payoff, still just broken.
August 13, 2009 at 7:57 pm #100562B.DawsParticipantQuote:When I started this project I had a dead big muff and it was suggested here that it was likely the switch. Mod is 100% now and I still have no sound unless it is bypassed. I have another issue somewhere. Now I have hours invested and no payoff, still just broken.I bought a Russian Muff in a pawn shop and got home and the volume only worked from like 8 to 11 o’clock so it wouldn’t get loud enough. Tried every true bypass/wiring mod I could and never could get it working right. So you know what I did? I bought a new Russian Muff then wired my old one just like the new one and that fixed it! Now I have two Russian Muffs and the new one I added the Green mod and Tone switch mod and it smokes. It seems like a lot of diagrams on the net don’t work! It doesn’t mean you can’t fix it though. If I get time I’ll try to post the guts and connections on one of mine to show you!
August 13, 2009 at 8:29 pm #100563h8mtvMemberQuote:Quote:When I started this project I had a dead big muff and it was suggested here that it was likely the switch. Mod is 100% now and I still have no sound unless it is bypassed. I have another issue somewhere. Now I have hours invested and no payoff, still just broken.I bought a Russian Muff in a pawn shop and got home and the volume only worked from like 8 to 11 o’clock so it wouldn’t get loud enough. Tried every true bypass/wiring mod I could and never could get it working right. So you know what I did? I bought a new Russian Muff then wired my old one just like the new one and that fixed it! Now I have two Russian Muffs and the new one I added the Green mod and Tone switch mod and it smokes. It seems like a lot of diagrams on the net don’t work! It doesn’t mean you can’t fix it though. If I get time I’ll try to post the guts and connections on one of mine to show you!
Thank you sir.
August 14, 2009 at 12:23 am #100567Ned FlandersModeratorQuote:Quote:When I started this project I had a dead big muff and it was suggested here that it was likely the switch. Mod is 100% now and I still have no sound unless it is bypassed. I have another issue somewhere. Now I have hours invested and no payoff, still just broken.I bought a Russian Muff in a pawn shop and got home and the volume only worked from like 8 to 11 o’clock so it wouldn’t get loud enough. Tried every true bypass/wiring mod I could and never could get it working right. So you know what I did? I bought a new Russian Muff then wired my old one just like the new one and that fixed it! Now I have two Russian Muffs and the new one I added the Green mod and Tone switch mod and it smokes. It seems like a lot of diagrams on the net don’t work! It doesn’t mean you can’t fix it though. If I get time I’ll try to post the guts and connections on one of mine to show you!
My diagrams work because I drew them up right after I TB’d all my sovteks.(plus is you follow the audio path you see it works just from looking at the diagrams) I cant speak for the others online,never tried them. From what I’ve observed, a lot of people cant follow simple dot to dot type instructions though.
August 14, 2009 at 1:14 am #100568h8mtvMemberThe instructions are excellent. I had a broken pedal and I attempted a fix with the mod. It didn’t fix my problem. I am simply back at square one.
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