Hi,

my new GERMANIUM 4 BIG MUFF PI pedal arrived with one screw stuck, and had to extract it. (the threading was off in different spots)
want to buy new screw but cant figure out the dimentions

what is the screw size, and is there a comparable size in metric

Before there was Muff, there was boost. The LPB-1 Linear Power Booster was originally discovered by EHX founder Mike Matthews while working with engineer Bob Myer to develop the very first Big Muff Pi pedal for Electro-Harmonix. Bob had overestimated the output of guitar pickups and built a outboard booster to boost the guitar signal going into his original circuit design. Curious about the little box hanging off of the Big Muff, Mike asked Bob show him what would happen if only the booster box was used with the guitar an amp. The resulting volume levels blew Mike away and he knew he had his first product. Over 5 decades and millions of pedals later, Electro-Harmonix is proud to introduce their lastest Linear Power Booster, the LPB-3.

Watch demo video at http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8cqZaXFWkNE

Housed in EHX’s Nano-sized chassis, the LPB-3 is capable of boosting up to +33dB of clean gain with the powerful tone shaping of a 3-band EQ with parametric Mids. BOOST sets the overall output of the pedal with a MAX switch toggling between 20dB and 33dB of maximum boost. Use the PRE-GAIN knob to fine-tune the total gain and volume of the boost. The 3-Band EQ features TREBLE and BASS knobs to control the highs and lows plus a parametric Mids.

This all-around boost pedal’s additional features include switchable Buffered/True Bypass switching and internally extended 30V power rails for enhanced headroom. The EHX LPB-3 comes equipped with standard EHX 9 Volt power supply, will be available in June 2024 and features a U.S. Street Price of $129.00.

Learn more at http://www.ehx.com/lpb3

Hiya folks. About 6 or 7 years ago(My memory isn’t perfect) My father bought me a EHX Big muff Pi Op Amp pedal. The first year i had it, it worked fine. The second year the switch started to only work sometimes. And then it stopped working entirely and i had stopped using it. Recently i paid a technician to fix it but it was returned to me in even worse condition and STILL doesn’t work. in fairness i should’ve purchased a new one but with all the guitar gear locally skyrocketing in price. it just wasn’t doable. also i kind’ve wanted THIS one because my father bought it.

Now my question may be or IS stupid. but i’d like to wire it so the pedal is ALWAYS on or at least add a new toggle switch. but where the original switch was wired. was completely burned up by the technician that failed to fix it. And i’m wondering if there is a different location that i can add a wire to and connect to a switch.

Also I have an Octave Multiplexer from the 1990s.

In the 1970s I decided to take 4 EHX pedals, the EM, OM, Bib Muff Pi V1, Small Stone Phase V1 and a breadboarded Guitar Sound Intensifier (fancy words for preamp/treble/bass boost/cut circuit) that was actually featured in an old Popular Mechanics magazine that I still have the article for. I decided to disassemble the individual boxes and get one bigger box and make it “The Squawking Owl” that incorporates all the effects with a power supply I made. Used it for many years. I decide I would like to sell the unit but when I went to test it I noticed the Flanger, when on, had a whole lot of white noise in the background with the flanging. I thought I would exlude the power supply and I disconnected the flanger from it and wired a separage AC adapter type PS to the board but I screwed up and reversed the polarity. That made something unhappy. After awhile I stopped getting sound entirely out of that effect. The rest were still working fine. But then I took the flanger out to troubleshoot it and wired around the footswitch for it and for some reason, now my Octavizer isn’t working in effect mode. Ugh. So frustrating. Everything on that effect seems to be wired correctly with power. So I no longer own my big old oscilloscope, I decided to buy a small portable OS and a small transistor/capacitor/diode tester.

I went ahead on the flanger and replaced all the chips but the one that’s hard to get, the Reticon SAD1024 (that used to be $7 at Radio Shack). I also replaced the two transistors with equivalent PNPs. I get sound out of the flanger in effect mode but no flanging (oscillation) but no white noise either. Hmmm.

So my problem is I can do a rudimentary troubleshooting with a signal generator and the oscilloscope and see that the wave is making it through the Op Amps and such, but it would help if I had a service guide that would tell me what I should see at the various points at the chips and such. So I can see where the flaw is. Same with the Octave effect. I haven’t changed any parts on that yet. But all the chips on it are available for not that expensive as it’s a newer effect.

If I can’t fix it I will probably have to start selling off parts as non working on Ebay.

Thanks for reading.

Hello everyone!
20 years ago I sold my old Big Muf Pi and now I am very sorry. I want to order such a he on ebay, but I don’t know if it’s 4 or 5. I still have a drawing of the scheme, it may not be accurate, but the main thing for me is to find out if there is a buy pass on the scheme or not, If not, then this is m 4 help me figure out who is in the know, sorry for AI English.
https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/1024x768q70/923/uODPJl.jpg

Apologies if I posted twice, tried to edit and it seemed to have vanished – mistake on my part!

Hello –
I’ve had the 1440 looper for about 6 months, and slowly, one by one, the small buttons for reverse, octave and (most important for me) one-shot, became less and less reliable, and finally have stopped working alltogether. The only one that still works is the one I have never used – ext clk.I would use the buttons maybe 5 or 6 times during a show, nothing excessive to account for their wearing out so quickly.

I wouldn’t mind those physical switches not working on the pedal if I were able to switch those functions with a small midi footswitch. In fact that would be better, rather than stopping and bending down to press the little buttons. So my question is – would the Gecko MkIII midi controller be able to toggle those functions (octave, reverse, one-shot) on/off?

Here’s the midi footswitch I was thinking of: https://one-control.com/products/one-control-gecko-mkiii-english

Thanks for any tips –
Bob

PS: been using EH gear since the late 60’s and still have my Big Muff bought in 1972!

A love letter to EHX history in pedal form

Originally designed by Josh Scott of JHS Pedals and graphic designer, Daniel Danger as a homage to Electro-Harmonix in what Josh and Daniel consider the company’s design heyday in the 1970s, the EHX Lizard Queen Octave Fuzz is a nano-sized version of the pedal brought to life by the engineers at Electro-Harmonix that has all of the tones and vibes of the original design first featured on the JHS Show in 2022. The tone is inspired by EHX’s fuzz pedigree with a unique analog octave up circuit that has all the vibe of the original design first featured on the JHS Show in 2022. This creates a completely new and unique Big Muff sound we’ve never heard before.

Demo video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JddoyrpcOzg

Housed in EHX’s Nano-sized chassis, the EHX Lizard Queen is a fixed gain fuzz pedal which features Volume, Octave, and Balance knobs. Volume controls the overall output volume level while the Octave control blends in the octave-up effect from no effect to full octave mixed in. The Balance knob sets the tone balance between the smoother Shadow setting and the raspy, biting Sun setting. The Balance control is more apparent at higher Octave settings.

The EHX Lizard Queen features true bypass switching, comes equipped with a 9 Volt battery and accepts a standard EHX 9 Volt power supply.

It is available now and features a U.S. Street Price of $99.00.

Learn more: https://www.ehx.com/lizardqueen